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Tow hooks with aftermarket bumpers - what are you using?
The previous owner added frp bumpers that completely cover the stock tow hooks. Im sure someone has had that problem already. What are you guys using? I thought maybe a tow strap could work, with minimal cutting of the bumper, but anything except pulling the car straight would definitely mess up the bumpers. It’s a race car, so I’m not too concerned about looks, but don’t want to be fixing the bumpers if it can be avoided. Any ideas?
I still have the OE steel bumper and bumper shocks under the OE cover on my car. So my tow hook on the track is a spring loaded u-bolt that the workers pull out to hook on to, it is the red thing above the grill opening. We have had and have several FBs with fiberglass front ends and they all ran a steel tube bumper that use the OE bumper shocks. This gives them something to put a tow hook on and the bumper/bumper shocks help absorb light hits on the track.
I still have the OE steel bumper and bumper shocks under the OE cover on my car. So my tow hook on the track is a spring loaded u-bolt that the workers pull out to hook on to, it is the red thing above the grill opening. We have had and have several FBs with fiberglass front ends and they all ran a steel tube bumper that use the OE bumper shocks. This gives them something to put a tow hook on and the bumper/bumper shocks help absorb light hits on the track.
If the vertical center members of the nose line up with the factory hooks, you might be able to create a slot for the ‘eye’. The Mariah nose does and I copied what most of the EP cars had. Works great for winching on/off the enclosed trailer.
If the vertical center members of the nose line up with the factory hooks, you might be able to create a slot for the ‘eye’. The Mariah nose does and I copied what most of the EP cars had. Works great for winching on/off the enclosed trailer.
Yes, they are not necessarily vertical, but right in front of the stock tow hook location. I need to take a better photo, but you can see the bumper I have below. I would need to cut a slot similar to yours and get a tow hook with an extended arm. I'm not sure if the T3 hook is long enough, but seems like a part that can be easily fabricated. Thanks for your input.
Here is what I designed, the brackets bolt to the stock tow hook locations. I designed it to be easily removable so it was easy to load on the trailer, and doing endurance racing I could build a spare and change it quickly during a pit stop. This is important since it is an absolute rule that if you add a splitter at some point it is going to get torn off, either through contact or off track excursions
Here is what I designed, the brackets bolt to the stock tow hook locations. I designed it to be easily removable so it was easy to load on the trailer, and doing endurance racing I could build a spare and change it quickly during a pit stop. This is important since it is an absolute rule that if you add a splitter at some point it is going to get torn off, either through contact or off track excursions
Those look great! How did you cut them? I would buy one! 😉
Those look great! How did you cut them? I would buy one! 😉
I just had a local laser cutting shop cut them, they do a lot of parts for me and are quite reasonable. I would be happy to share the basic CAD, but I would recommend you customize the splitter mounts to fit what you want with your car. I am working on a version 3 design where I lower the splitter quite a bit, as you can see in the picture of the car it is quite high, which means you will not get meaningful downforce, just a lack of lift, and good cooling ducting with what I have now. If you really want downforce the splitter needs to be down about 2 inches from the road, but of course it is way more vulnerable once you mount it that low, and you need an efficient wing on the back to balance it out.
01-18-22, 07:44 PM
