Ok Im about done with this project, survived having almost 5 heartattacks in the last 2 days... red exhaust, retarted timing.... anywho, got the timing gun, already timed it by feel, without gun, to get it running smooth/no red headers. Anywho Im about ready to do the timing.
(from racingbeat) i have s4 6port so thinking the same.
Ignition Advance: 1984-85 GSL-SE

Use stock advance setting

L- yellow (5° ATC) at idle I under stand this, 5mm from first mark

T- red (20° ATC) at idle Now this is where my question is, this means that my trailing should line up perfectly with the first mark? correct? cause the 2 marks are 20mm apart? So in the big picture, the leading is firing 5mm before TDC and my trailing is firing 5mm later, which is at TDC correct?

Thanks so much, cant wait to drive her for the first time tonight!

 

Also, this is what Racingbeat reccomends, Ive seen alot of stuff through my searching.... Seen 26l but heard thats to much, seen alot of 20 10 guys... You guys think I should advance the timing more than 5*?

Also I read that the first mark on the pulley on a 13b is 5* ahead already, just putting that out there.

 

Hmm... I'm going to keep an eye on this thread, I would like to know how much to tweak the timing when I finally straighten out the damned pulley that was mis indexed!

 

Well im a big dummy.... I think the other timing is for 4k or so rpms...... I am SOOOO STUPID, thought my igniton training was complete, asdfjkl;sdfjkl;.... For some reason,.. in my head, by connecting the 2 vaccum advances together, i thought that the distributor wouldn't advance at all!!!!!!!!!!

So I have the engine revving at 2k rpms or more and Im lining the first timing mark up. Well the problem is that the distributor advanced the timing 8 or so degrees already and im turning the distributor for TDC!!! so when it went to idle it would of been at around -3 or more degrees retarded. Prolly alot more... The header was RED RED RED and the exhaust was making some noise when the car was off... I guess I know how to make my prima flow louder

Can someone that is smart, or somepeople call me an idiot... Im off to have a beer, come home and wire the damn a/f meter... God help me, might accidently wire it to the stereo!! LOL

 

If I were you, and did not race my car on a daily basis, I would stick with the stock settings.

Disconnect the vacuum advance and plug the line that heads toward the carb so you don't have a vacuum leak. The car should be idling at around 850 rpms. Then, just line up the markings on the pulley and you're all set.

 

Thanks! I guess I did a pretty crummy job of stating the facts about the car... Its a s4 engine/gslse body.. Dellorto carb, and I do race, but I think that the 5* advance stock is good enough.. I just ran a hose connecting the vacuum advances together, to keep crud out.

Boy was I freaking out though. And to top off my brain fart about the dizzy advance at higher rpms, at one time I forgot to switch the connecter to the leading wire.... I got the FAZE a/f wired up.. To late now to mess with car, need sleep, but when I turned the ignition of the car on, the meter read ritch all the way.. haven't started the car with it on though. I know the wiring is correct, except the ground might not be grounded, its in a good spot, but maybee I forgot to scrape off the paint... Hard to get to now.. ehh another day

 

Oh, sorry about that man! I guess one should never base an assumption upon a post count.

And sorry as well about the carb diversion there, I should have paid more attention. I have not taken the time to mark the pulley and set the advance at 4k rpms. I have advanced it as far as it would go before detonation, then backed off a bit. That seemed to work well. She was a tired old motor though.

Somebody please post the correct information in this thread. Because I should have "done it right" a long time ago myself. lol...

 

It would definatly be best if you would use a Timing gun with the advance feature on there, definatly makes things 100x easier. But that asside you can actually just set it up by hear at idle. Basically you want set it up so that the engine sound smoothest. Usually if you go a tad overboard you'll hear it falling off its face again so the bit right before then is the best part usually. You cannot say one specific set of advance for every engine out there as every engine likes things different.

And if you get anyporting and makes it that much more difficult to say. But you can still follow that rule of thumb. Personally when i did that to my car, and went on the dyno I actually couldn't improve the HP anymore. Make sure when you do this the car is fully warmed up though to give you a real feel for it.

 

DemonSpawn,

Once I added temp timing marks to a misindexed pulley by measuring pulley diameter, figuring circumference, then measuring 1/4 that around the periphery. Worked fine.

It's not that hard to rotate the pulley 90 deg, you just have to undo the 4 small capscrews holding it to the hub after setting the temp mark to TDC. Don't have to pull radiator or water pump or big 19mm bolt.

 

Way too much math for me... Not that I couldn't do it, but I usually try and stray away from using it...

But yeah, its relevtively easy to adjust it back... just a pain in the *** depending on the condition of your car... like mine for example, I took the fan clutch off to get better access since I didn't want to get under the car and I didn't want to work around the fan (Though I probably could have). I ended up stripping two bolts beyond usable tolerance and had to hunt down some new ones. I don't like taking engine components or parts that have been stuck on for 20 years because these damned metric bolts are already a weak rating and get weaker over the years!

That and I don't keep a stock of all the nuts and bolts that fit on the Seven, speaking of which anyone know a really good place to get metric bolts in the bay area?

 

It's all good. What did you assume? Im trying to figure that out.... Racing/Carb/Im stupid/smart.

Ohh and about my post count.. It should be higher than it shows... I think I have 2 other names or so on here that I have forgotten, plus ones from other sites that I haven't been to for a couple-8 years. I honestly hate the post counts on the side, instead of counting posts, It should count the amount of articles youve read . And how many times youve read them

 

Well then your in luck.. Mazda likes to hook us up sometimes... The main pulley is 360mm in size, 360* of course so your formula is going to be 1/1. So every degree on your pulley will measure 1mm