Tie-rod Torque...Dont over do it!
#1
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Tie-rod Torque...Dont over do it!
Just a Tip for Newbs.
I replaced My inner and outer Tie-rod ends last week and the improvement in steering was Instant, i had lost some of the "wander" that i had previously, but after about a week i noticed the steering play and wandering had returned, so on inspection i tried Tightening the Outer Tie-rod to knuckle arm lock nut and stripped the thread! (on the Tie-rod).
So Just a lesson learned for other Newbs, Never Over torque your Tie rods, i had them at the specified 22-33ft-lb torque but should have left them alone.
My other problem is trying to Diagnose this poor steering problem ( i know these cars have steering issues but mine is very severe ) and i had the steering gear box rebuild not long ago? at considerable cost! any other thoughts? would the steering gear box just need adjusting?
Matt.
I replaced My inner and outer Tie-rod ends last week and the improvement in steering was Instant, i had lost some of the "wander" that i had previously, but after about a week i noticed the steering play and wandering had returned, so on inspection i tried Tightening the Outer Tie-rod to knuckle arm lock nut and stripped the thread! (on the Tie-rod).
So Just a lesson learned for other Newbs, Never Over torque your Tie rods, i had them at the specified 22-33ft-lb torque but should have left them alone.
My other problem is trying to Diagnose this poor steering problem ( i know these cars have steering issues but mine is very severe ) and i had the steering gear box rebuild not long ago? at considerable cost! any other thoughts? would the steering gear box just need adjusting?
Matt.
#3
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Thread Starter
Yeah its a problem that has been plaguing me for some time now, if im driving in a straight line and the road happens to camber on one side the car will try to follow the camber violently and ill have to steer off to compensate. also at high speed there is little or no "resistance" and i cant "feel" the road.
It has been quite scary (and for other road users too no doubt) and after rebuilding the steering gearbox and replacing the tie-rods im out of ideas?
Looks like ill have to bend over and and get someone to charge me heaven and earth to fix this.
It has been quite scary (and for other road users too no doubt) and after rebuilding the steering gearbox and replacing the tie-rods im out of ideas?
Looks like ill have to bend over and and get someone to charge me heaven and earth to fix this.
#5
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When replacing the idler arm, don't settle for anything other than Moog. It is much heavier duty than stock, and they seem to last forever. Best price I've found is at www.rockauto.com
#6
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Thread Starter
yeah that was next on my list. cheers ill check out the MOOG one. we have a mob here in Australia called "pedders" and they do most of the replacement parts relatively cheap so ill shop around.
I didn't know the Ball joints could cause much trouble? that is news to me, cheers for that trochoid ill have a look and get back to you. I guess it makes sense as the knuckle arm is supported by them!
Cheers matt.
I didn't know the Ball joints could cause much trouble? that is news to me, cheers for that trochoid ill have a look and get back to you. I guess it makes sense as the knuckle arm is supported by them!
Cheers matt.
#7
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Thread Starter
Also regarding the fitting of the inner and outer tie-rod ends, do they have to be "pressed in" or are they just fitted snug and then tighten the crown lock nut to the specified torque? does anyone have a picture of their inner and outers fitted?
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#8
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No, they aren't pressed in. Just tightened to the specified torque, then secured with the castle nut and cotter pin. They can't really move once mounted, so re-torquing isn't necesarry.
Yeah, ball joints can cause all sorts of problems. If they are original, then replace them simply for the peace of mind if nothing else. I borrowed a ball joint press from a local autoparts store when I did mine, had no issues. Mazda claims you have to replace the entire control arm, but what do they know, eh?
Yeah, ball joints can cause all sorts of problems. If they are original, then replace them simply for the peace of mind if nothing else. I borrowed a ball joint press from a local autoparts store when I did mine, had no issues. Mazda claims you have to replace the entire control arm, but what do they know, eh?
#9
82, 83, 88, 82 RX-7again!
No, they aren't pressed in. Just tightened to the specified torque, then secured with the castle nut and cotter pin. They can't really move once mounted, so re-torquing isn't necesarry.
Yeah, ball joints can cause all sorts of problems. If they are original, then replace them simply for the peace of mind if nothing else. I borrowed a ball joint press from a local autoparts store when I did mine, had no issues. Mazda claims you have to replace the entire control arm, but what do they know, eh?
Yeah, ball joints can cause all sorts of problems. If they are original, then replace them simply for the peace of mind if nothing else. I borrowed a ball joint press from a local autoparts store when I did mine, had no issues. Mazda claims you have to replace the entire control arm, but what do they know, eh?
For what it is worth, I had a ball joint (the press fit into the control arm) come loose on my car. Suggest at least a tack weld to keep it in place for piece of mind, I went with new arms but what a waste that was, could have bought a welder
Scott
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