VW Rabbit rack gotchas (R&P to FB RX-7)
10-06-03, 10:19 AM
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VW Rabbit rack gotchas (R&P to FB RX-7)
This weekend I went to a salvage yard and took two Rabbit racks for use with the CPracing Rack & Pinion kit.
Like all cars there are some gotchas. If you are going to pull it yourself, be sure to bring 13 and 17mm sockets, metric allen wrenches, pickle fork, and an adjustable wrench for the tie-rod nut.
Like most German cars I have worked on, almost everything is 13mm. Including the rack mounting nut *right behind the rear engine mount* (@$#%@!!). That is why you need the 17 mm socket. Remove the mount bracket from under the frame, and then the two 13mm nuts holding it to the engine/tranny (skip the big 19mm nut in the middle).
There is also a gear shifting linkage that uses a bracket welded to the rack - all 13 mm. I found it easiest to pull the rack out from the passenger side. You really have to go through some girations to wiggle it out.
The allen wrenches are in case you have trouble separating the U joint from the steering column. There are two U joints. One on the outside of the firewall connecting the pinion via a spline to the U joint, then a rod that goes through the firewall, then a second U joint connecting to a spline on the end of the steering column. On the first Rabbit, it really didn't want to come loose, so I had to loosen the steering column (allen head bolts) and pull it back far enough I could force the U joint off the spline.
The first car took me at least 90 minutes. The second like 20-30 minutes.
If you are going to have somebody else pull it, make sure they get the U joint section and the tie-rod ends. Knowing most salvage yards, they'll take a hacksaw and cut these pieces off.
Now, why did I do this?
Well, I checked online and found that a replacement rebuilt rack costs $114 (Autozone), with a $50 core charge. That doesn't come with the special small sized U joints (which are needed), or either tie-rod end which are $17-$34 each. There is no separate listing for the GTI rack.
I can get new boots for $7, and seals for less than $15 if necessary. Worse case, I use the racks I pulled as cores, and get back more than they cost ($25 each), and I still have the extra parts I needed.
FWIW, they used a tight rubber boot over the entire linkage, so both double U joints links look brand new.
Based on the online listings (and salvage yard experience) it looks like 78 1/2 to '84 Rabbit or to '84 Jetta racks will work. I wrote to Chris to verify this.
One of the racks I pulled came from a late '78, and it looks identical to the one I pulled from the '80 Rabbit.
On the downside, I am a little concerned...there were 5 other Rabbits, and one Jetta that all had their rack's pulled. Either Chris is selling lots of these kits, there is a lot of cross applications for the rack, or they are prone to failure. Time will tell.
On both racks, there is a welded bracket to attach a hanger for the transmission linkage, or something like that. In looking at the pic on the CP website, it now looks to me like the kit acts as a sleeve over the rack. That would explain why there is no welding required when it looks like the angled supports are welded to the rack. I will let you know when I get the kit.
BTW, those racheting end wrenches ARE AWESOME!!! I can't see how I ever lived without them.
Brian T. C.
Like all cars there are some gotchas. If you are going to pull it yourself, be sure to bring 13 and 17mm sockets, metric allen wrenches, pickle fork, and an adjustable wrench for the tie-rod nut.
Like most German cars I have worked on, almost everything is 13mm. Including the rack mounting nut *right behind the rear engine mount* (@$#%@!!). That is why you need the 17 mm socket. Remove the mount bracket from under the frame, and then the two 13mm nuts holding it to the engine/tranny (skip the big 19mm nut in the middle).
There is also a gear shifting linkage that uses a bracket welded to the rack - all 13 mm. I found it easiest to pull the rack out from the passenger side. You really have to go through some girations to wiggle it out.
The allen wrenches are in case you have trouble separating the U joint from the steering column. There are two U joints. One on the outside of the firewall connecting the pinion via a spline to the U joint, then a rod that goes through the firewall, then a second U joint connecting to a spline on the end of the steering column. On the first Rabbit, it really didn't want to come loose, so I had to loosen the steering column (allen head bolts) and pull it back far enough I could force the U joint off the spline.
The first car took me at least 90 minutes. The second like 20-30 minutes.
If you are going to have somebody else pull it, make sure they get the U joint section and the tie-rod ends. Knowing most salvage yards, they'll take a hacksaw and cut these pieces off.
Now, why did I do this?
Well, I checked online and found that a replacement rebuilt rack costs $114 (Autozone), with a $50 core charge. That doesn't come with the special small sized U joints (which are needed), or either tie-rod end which are $17-$34 each. There is no separate listing for the GTI rack.
I can get new boots for $7, and seals for less than $15 if necessary. Worse case, I use the racks I pulled as cores, and get back more than they cost ($25 each), and I still have the extra parts I needed.
FWIW, they used a tight rubber boot over the entire linkage, so both double U joints links look brand new.
Based on the online listings (and salvage yard experience) it looks like 78 1/2 to '84 Rabbit or to '84 Jetta racks will work. I wrote to Chris to verify this.
One of the racks I pulled came from a late '78, and it looks identical to the one I pulled from the '80 Rabbit.
On the downside, I am a little concerned...there were 5 other Rabbits, and one Jetta that all had their rack's pulled. Either Chris is selling lots of these kits, there is a lot of cross applications for the rack, or they are prone to failure. Time will tell.
On both racks, there is a welded bracket to attach a hanger for the transmission linkage, or something like that. In looking at the pic on the CP website, it now looks to me like the kit acts as a sleeve over the rack. That would explain why there is no welding required when it looks like the angled supports are welded to the rack. I will let you know when I get the kit.
BTW, those racheting end wrenches ARE AWESOME!!! I can't see how I ever lived without them.
Brian T. C.
10-06-03, 10:54 AM
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There are only 4 bolts holding the rack assembly to the frame, one of which is under the engine mount. There are two bolts (one per spline) holding the linkage to the pinion and steering column respectively. There are two nuts and two bolts on the engine mount you have to take off. There are 4 bolts holding the tranny linkage hanger on the rack. Finally, there are the two tie-rod ends.
Geez...that took me 90 minutes?!?!?! well, I foolishly took off the tires on the first one, and then there was the 30 minutes fighting the steering column....I guess I know why I am not a professional mechanic.
Besides, computers are cleaner.
Geez...that took me 90 minutes?!?!?! well, I foolishly took off the tires on the first one, and then there was the 30 minutes fighting the steering column....I guess I know why I am not a professional mechanic.
Besides, computers are cleaner.
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