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Hmmm..Tie-rod help

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Old 02-01-14, 04:43 PM
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Hmmm..Tie-rod help

I started my tie-rod (inner & outer) and I have 2 questions:

1) Picture of outer tie-rod using the separator tool. It popped loose, but when I went to remove the nut, unknowingly it got cocked and I can-t remove it. The tie-rod stud its threaded on just spins. Thought I'd just dremel the nut off but someone borrowed it and I was hoping someone had a method they used to get the nut off??

2) I modified a 24mm wrench like Wankel7 had to for the inner tie-rod, but looks like I don't need it (other pictures). A regular wrench fits on, but there is no teeth to hold the inner steering shaft from moving. It is round with no grab points to hold it still. Is it safe to loosen the inner tie-rod w/o holding the steering rod?
Attached Thumbnails Hmmm..Tie-rod help-dscn2437.jpg   Hmmm..Tie-rod help-dscn2429.jpg   Hmmm..Tie-rod help-dscn2428.jpg  
Old 02-01-14, 04:47 PM
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put the tie rod back into the knuckle, and you may get lucky enough that it will hold the ball in place to remove the nut off the threads. if not, grinder time
Old 02-01-14, 05:01 PM
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Thanks for the tip but I tried it with no luck. May have to buy another dremel.
Old 02-01-14, 08:09 PM
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Use a pickle fork next time, you probably mushroomed the top of the tie rod threads. Did you hit the tie rod end with a hammer to try to get it to seat?

You might be able to hold the shaft with some vise grips.
Old 02-01-14, 09:15 PM
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Don't put the outer rod back into the knuckle, remove that puller and beat it back up in from the bottom, Then try to take the castle nut off.
For the inner tie rods, just let the steering column lock then break it loose.
Old 02-02-14, 01:10 AM
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If Molotov's advice doesn't work or the nut is stuck,Get a hack saw and cut the son of a Beotch off.
You can see a nice place to cut between the nut and the Spindle assembly.
Hit the spindle with a Hammer on the rounded part of where it surrounds that tie rod "shaft".
It should POP the tie rod right out.

I've never used a tie rod puller,and pickle forks just kill the boot of you want to put the tie rod back on.
Old 02-02-14, 09:02 AM
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Ended up running to store and getting another Dremel and cut it off in like 5 minutes. Thanks for the tips though (i tried most of them).

I checked to make sure my steering wheel was straight before removing, but I noticed the column lock like Molotovman mentioned is not active? It was operational earlier before starting this.
Old 02-02-14, 10:14 AM
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Originally Posted by jdonnell
Ended up running to store and getting another Dremel and cut it off in like 5 minutes. Thanks for the tips though (i tried most of them).

I checked to make sure my steering wheel was straight before removing, but I noticed the column lock like Molotovman mentioned is not active? It was operational earlier before starting this.
Key is out and wheel does not lock? You its mechanical so if you unlocked it by putting key on power position 1 or 2 it will unlock, and when you turn it back to the off position it will still be unlocked. You will have to remove the key and wiggle the wheel and it should lock

If you did that, then maybe something else is broken, but that isn't a huge issue anyways
Old 02-02-14, 11:07 AM
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Duh, you are right, steering is locked now. Thank you. Got the driver's side but I have to wait until my 24mm crowfoot wrench comes so I can torque it.

I have a slow leak at the p/s hose where it goes into the steering rack. See pic with black sharpie mark, are there suppose to be crush washers??? One between bolt head and p/s hose line and one between p/s hose line and steering rack??? I don't have any so I'm thinking that is why the slow leak. I don't see any referenced in the book though.
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Old 02-03-14, 10:17 PM
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all banjo bolts require a crush washer on both ends




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