1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

Throttle response

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Old 03-06-15, 10:25 PM
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Anti piston
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Throttle response

K just got my maverick air leak fixed. Ended up being some air pulling past the shaft on that emissions control diaphragm under the carb. So I got that taken care of but I have a small issue and it's always been one so I think it's time to get it figured out. At idle if I hit the throttle the car will almost die like it's not getting fuel but the throttle plates are opening letting the air past so I have to flutter the peddle a bit to get the RPMs to clime and then I can mash into the throttle and get going. I am going to pull the top half of the carb off and check the jets for blockages. But if anyone else knows what this is please let me know so I am not chasing this all night long.
Old 03-07-15, 02:30 PM
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roTAR needz fundZ

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When your dealing with carb issues, unless you have everything at your disposal, your gonna be chasing

Anyways, with that out've the way, are you sure the accelerator pump is in good shape? If those aren't working right/are wore, it will give you issues with mashing the pedal and having to feather the gas
Old 03-07-15, 04:00 PM
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step 1 is to make sure the accelerator pump is working, and step 2 is to set the idle mixture. if it isn't one of those two, then dig deeper
Old 03-07-15, 11:46 PM
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Lapping = Fapping

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It's probably the accel pump diaphram getting old and tough.

First identify the accel pump nozzle. Then open the throttle to check for fuel squirting. It should start to squirt as soon as the throttle is opened. If it's lazy or not squirting at all, maybe it's time for a rebuild kit.
Old 03-09-15, 09:59 AM
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Waffles - hmmm good

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As mentioned, bad idle mixture can contribute to this. By feathering the throttle you are basically
making the accel pump function and give more fuel to get a good mixture until it gets out of
the idle circuit. So verify the Acell pump is squirting good and then move on to the idle mixture.

Its definitely one of those. Probably don't even have to take the carb apart to fix it up.
Old 03-10-15, 07:09 AM
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Ok this is what I came up with. I got the car running enough to get it to my shop and put it inside. Once there I did a smoke test on the intake and couldn't find the leak. But with carb clean I narrowed the vacuum leak down to that large diaphragm that opens and closes the emissions plate in the top of the intake. So I used gasket maker and filled that thing up. And also cut a new solid gasket to seal it off from the intake completely. That seamed to cure that problem. As for the carb issue I ended up changing out my carb for a stripped one I rebuilt a few years back and never got installed. Now it's installed and running. I do have a slight issue still. It seams like the car is running out of fuel but half way through 3rd gear. I am going to reset the floats and hope that takes care of it since I noticed last night that the. Ack one was full in the sight and the front was almost at the bottom of the sight. I was searching in here for a listing for setting these carbs. Do I set the idle mixture screw to one and a half turns and then set my timing? I do a lot of work on small engine carbs but I am still trying to find information on how to set these and then tune them.
Old 03-10-15, 09:51 AM
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Waffles - hmmm good

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Basically you set the idle mixture and adjust the idle speed to get near the goal of 750 rpm.
At that point you can adjust the timing. Or you rev it up to 4K and adjust timing at max advance.
Either way works. The adjustment at 4K would require you to mark your pulley at the desired
max advance degrees.

Adjusting the idle mixture is pretty easy to do by ear, just turn it on or out and leave
somewhere between that gives you good plug colors. I usually turn it in until it stumbles and
then back it out a 1/2 turn or so. Then adjust the idle speed, rinse and repeat until I get
idle speed and smoothness where I want it. I also check the plugs at some point to make sure
its not too lean. I can't remember which way makes it richer, in or out.
Old 03-12-15, 10:36 AM
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Thank you for the info. I got the floats set so the fuel sit at that cut out mark in the sight glass. I also balanced my idle mixture/speed and timing. It only took about 4 times back and forth to get them balanced correctly. It now can idle at 750rpm smooth and acceleration feels good again. I can't help but thing maybe the distributor needs bumped one tooth because I am turned almost all the way to one side of the slot now? Must have stretched the timing belt, or the valves are worn out or something.
Old 03-12-15, 02:16 PM
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Lapping = Fapping

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Yeah, that's gotta be it.
Old 03-31-15, 08:10 PM
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I'm still stalling out on and off through 3rd gear under a very hard acceleration. So I think I will have to add the second fuel pump again to make sure it's not getting fuel starved.
Old 03-31-15, 10:31 PM
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Originally Posted by jeff20b
yeah, that's gotta be it.
lmao
Old 04-01-15, 11:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Dave.Martin2008
I'm still stalling out on and off through 3rd gear under a very hard acceleration. So I think I will have to add the second fuel pump again to make sure it's not getting fuel starved.
Checked your fuel filter lately?
Old 04-01-15, 03:32 PM
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Originally Posted by DivinDriver
Checked your fuel filter lately?
Yes I have a glass filter casing and new filter in it. Flow seams to be good. But like instated before. I can accelerate hard all the way through 1st, 2nd and then 3rd a little ways into it starts chugging in and out like it's running out of fuel I let off the throttle and it clears up.
Old 04-01-15, 03:54 PM
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Waffles - hmmm good

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Check the fuel flow from the pump at the carb. See how fast it fills a gallon container half way.
Should be like less than 1 minute or so isn't the stock pump rated around 30 gph or something like that?

Sounds like you are running out of fuel but it may be the pump or some other restriction like
sucking it from the tank.
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