Ok, I bled my clutch some and it seemed to fix my high rpm problem shortly after, but I had to get back to work and 3 hours later it had high rpm problem again.

Since I didn't drain all of the fluid in the resevoir(it's not clear, it's a brown which I'm assuming is bad since out of the bottle it's clear), do I need to actually bleed it completely and refill it, and make sure there's no gunk in the tubing to see if it's just a minor problem?

Or should bleeding it some to get air out of the tubes fix it if I don't need to replace my clutch?

 

Changing that murky fluid will prevent your clutch cylinders from an having an untimely death.

However your post is vauge - what is your original problem? You should be focusing on the hydraulics only If your clutch won't dissengage.

 

Sorry, this was a continuation from a post last week.

My problem is that I'm getting high rpms in low speeds and it takes a few tries to get it to shift in to second.
Like, I push the clutch and it's like the clutch isn't engaged, let it out and push again and it's fine.

A couple people told me that it could the be slave cylinder, and to bleed it and see if that worked. It did for a short time, but after sitting the car had the same problem again.

 

Anybody?
I'm pretty sure it's leaking, but how would I check, or where could I take it to have it checked to see if that's the problem? I'd prefer a place that's not going to charge me an arm and a leg to tell me there's a problem and then charge half a body to fix it.

 

Take it to a tranny shop, usually expensive, but how they know what theyre doing, and how much do you love your car?

 

Take it to a tranny shop, usually expensive, but they know what theyre doing, and how much do you love your car?

 

slave cylinder; pull off the rubber cover on the slave where the rod is going to the clutch fork and see if there is any brake fluid leaking.

clutch master; look above the clutch pedal where the rod goes into the master on the firewall and see if you see any fluids leaking there.

I still think you clutch is slipping. That's why your RPM is running high and your car isn't going anywhere.

 

There was air in the tubes and getting it out caused it to work fine, so I know it's a leak somewhere, but it could be the tubes and the clutch is fine but I have no idea.

I'll see if there's any fluid leaking, how would I check the tubes? I don't know which one is what and don't have a haynes manual yet.

 

There's only 1 line ( tube ) going from the clutch master to the slave. Just follow the line from the clutch master to the slave and see if you see or feel any fluid leaking.

 

usally if your driving in say 4th gear then floor it u will get high rpm with really no diffrenece in speed means the clutch is gone

but if sometimes u cant engage the gears thats the hydrolic system

 

Ok, I'm so confused.
When I think problems with a clutch I think the big metal plate...What's that called? And what's the chances of that being my problem and not a leak in the cylinders?

 

the way a clutch works is that there's your flwheel (big cog looking thing) which mates to your clutch plate (the bit with springs and sintered looking material around the edges) then there's the pressure plate (big circley kinda thing with bits of metal poking to the middle in a cone kinda shape)

usually when a clutch is gone it means that the sintered friction material has worn down and it is no longer grabbing the flywheel anymore, giving the sensation that the clutch pedal is pushed (all noise, no acceleration)

if you have bled the clutch hydraulics (master and slave cylinders) and there are no leaks and no air in the system then your next step will be to get the car up on stands and disconnect the gearbox from the engine. once you have done that then you will be able to see the pressure plate. unbolt that and voila! the friction plate. go to the nice people at your local auto store and ask them for a new heavy duty clutch (infinitely better than a standard one) they will give you a nice little box. than take your flywheel to your local machining shop and ask them to machine this for you (very important,otherwise you will get premature clutch wear or it win't work at all) all it needs is to be perfectly smooth... anyway, once you have done that then head back home with your nice smooth flywheel and your fancy exedy (probably) box and put int he flywheel, then put in the friction plate and the pressure plate, bolt it all back together, bleed the hydraulics one more time for good measure and go for a drive. should be sweet