When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I’m trying to find the proper tail shaft seal. I found this, but don’t think it’s right.
does anyone know a part number or proper source? I’m working my way through the drive line, replacing rear end seals, bearings, also going to try and replace the staked ujoints. The tail shaft is all wet as well as the speedo cable. I found the o-ring for the speedo and have all the clutch goodies.
I'm building a trans mount for my floor Jack. Since I don't plan on doing another clutch for a long time, welding one for this trans will hopefully make things easier.
I'm struggling a bit with the axle shafts, but hopefully this afternoon they will be out. I need to make a bracket so my slide hammer pulls from the center.
The seal from an '86-05(?) FC - Miata will also work, but it has an extra dongular dust boot thing on the end. The difference is if the car has a solid axle or IRS. IRS cars do not have axle plunge to consider.
I finally got the axles out and center section. The hardest part of the whole thing was separating the flanges between the driveshaft and center section. Had to break out the air hammer to break the rust.
I don’t know if someone has been in there before, but there’s no gasket or even sealant between the pumpkin and center section?? No wonder it’s been leaking. I’ll use a small amount of Honda Bond when I put it back in tomorrow.
I cleaned out the axle bearings and filled them with new grease, both moved smoothly and don’t see a reason to replace them at this point. Plus I don’t have the proper tools to do it anyway.
I think I’ll finish the rear end and reassemble, drive it for a few weeks before taking out the transmission for the clutch replacement. I hate not being able to drive it!
I’m trying to confirm the torque spec for the 8 bolts that attach the center section to the a le housing. Haynes doesn’t say and the online manual shows 404 error code for rear axle.
I found this, but 54-69 foot pounds seems awful tight for cast iron. Maybe not the right thing since it says “nuts”.
any confirmation of the proper number would be greatly appreciated!
I found on a miata site, that they are about 20 foot pounds? Sounds much more reasonable, but it’s not for an RX7.
Last edited by Ckforker; Sep 19, 2022 at 05:16 PM.
Reason: New information
I don't think those figures are for a 1st gen since the axles aren't bolted to the rear hub and there's no subframe.
There aren't any listed in the FSM or techical data, but RX-3 and RX-4 FSM say 17-20 lb-ft. I just do it "pretty tight" with a standard size ratchet since it just has to not leak.
As a general rule M8 bolts probably should not be torqued more than 30ft-lb. They thread into stamped steel so even that is probably a bit high.
I always just zipped them down by feel. On one rearend housing I installed Allen bolts with washers from the inside, there are two locations where you cannot do this. It made it easier to R&R, and a 8.8 bolt is not going to strip out like the steel housing can.
