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So while I wait for the fuel tank cleaner to get here, I figured I would change out the sway bar end links since it should be nice and easy. Whelp, guess not...
I tried searching for someone with a similar issue, but came up empty, so sorry if this has been answered. Anyhow, I have had pretty good luck with Beck/Arnley for simple stuff like this, so figured I'd give it a shot and would be safer than Meevotec, or w.e. that basic brand is. But it looks like this thing is MUCH bigger *giggity*.
I have both the "front" (-4266) and "rear" (-4277), but the FSM doesn't give much info on orientation and the old ones are too smashed to be of any help. Can anyone confirm which goes where and how the rubber bushings should be oriented? Trying to install the one that was labeled for the rear makes it pretty much impossible to hold the top nut, so were these mislabeled? Anyone use these before? Or am I just being a goof...
1, or 2?
Last edited by FBPersimmon; Nov 5, 2018 at 09:10 PM.
The orientation as you have it in your top pic is correct,or #1 in bottom pic. Is the thru bolt in replacement kit same length as original? It may help to install complete assembly to swaybar 1st and then rotate swaybar up into position to slip the mounting brackets over the mounting stud and install the mounting bolt on opposite side of bracket.
If you can't get the nut started on the long bolt with everything in place,use a pair of channelock slip joint pliers on top of bushing bolt and cup washer and squeeze the bushings together to allow more threads of the bolt to protrude thru bottom cup washer to get nut installed a couple turns.
It will also help to have rear axle lifted up to same position as it sits with car weight on it to install top bracket and tighten long bushing bolt/nut properly with minimal bushing distortion than have the axle hanging and trying to compress the bushings while tightening bolt/nut.
Last edited by GSLSEforme; Nov 6, 2018 at 12:06 PM.
If I recall correctly, when I installed my Racing Beat ones on my 83 they were also a challenge. I had to squash everything a little to get the nut started as GSLSEforme mentioned and then tightened the nut to compress it all into place. In fact I vaguely recall trimming a little off each bushing to help get enough threads exposed to start the nut.
I remember a distinct difference in the thickness of the new bushings vs the old rotten ones.
Last edited by FEED AFFLUX v5; Nov 6, 2018 at 01:04 PM.
Thanks for all the info! Finally got it on after trimming the "lip" on the bushing. Jacking the axle up to even it out was also something that I should've done, but thanks for pointing it out. I think that did the trick Was still a very tight squeeze to get the nut started though...
Quick question torque specs. Should I still tighten it to the same "length of threads showing"? I assume this is because we can't get a good torque reading with it in the air?
With lip:
After cutting off lip:
Amount of thread I had to get it started:
Installed!
Last edited by FBPersimmon; Nov 6, 2018 at 09:23 PM.
FYI,those lips you trimmed off are there to locate the bushings in the center of mounting bracket and swaybar. At some point those components may shift allowing contact with thru bolt and possibly making noise. Looks like lower link bar is damaged. Appears to be bent. Have seen this type of damage from someone jacking up car by placing jack under link.
While the links are strong,they are not meant to support weight of car.
When a link is bent like that it's effective length is reduced which misaligns rear axle position relative to body of car and will bind rear suspension.
Compare left lower link to one on right side of car,they both should be straight.
Last edited by GSLSEforme; Nov 7, 2018 at 07:27 AM.
In answer to your question of final tightening torque,with car on ground or rear axle lifted to normal ride position., tighten hardware until bushings slightly bulge over edge of cup washers. Any tighter than that wears bushings prematurely.
FYI,those lips you trimmed off are there to locate the bushings in the center of mounting bracket and swaybar. At some point those components may shift allowing contact with thru bolt and possibly making noise. Looks like lower link bar is damaged. Appears to be bent. Have seen this type of damage from someone jacking up car by placing jack under link.
Yeah, new lower links are on the way, since I'm going to replace them as a pair. Unfortunately, didnt see it until I pulled the wheel off. PO probably backed on something or like you mentioned, tried to jack it up via the link. I spent like 2 hours researching how to get this car up on jacks cause it's definitely not like what I'm used to and I've heard enough horror stories about jacking up on the wrong part.
Good info on the bushing lips. If they start squeaking, I'll just deal with it then. I'll see if I can get them on without trimming on the other side.
Was still a very tight squeeze to get the nut started though...
