1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

suspension mods

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Old Jan 24, 2004 | 01:20 PM
  #1  
frstgen12a's Avatar
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From: michigan
suspension mods

I am getting ready to start buying suspension pieces wondering if anyone has any input on what they bought and how it worked. Has anyone installed the bushing kit on the rear end and what differences do you feel. The car has more power now but after 80 mph it feels like its going to fall apart - not a nice ride. I have a cp racing triangular strut tower brace and roll cage but the car doesnt seem any stiffer. Thanks for the info
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Old Jan 24, 2004 | 01:35 PM
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u might look at this website
http://www.ground-control.com
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Old Jan 24, 2004 | 03:12 PM
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Everyone says not to put rear bushings in. Everything will bind up. Go for full front bushings. And Tokiko Blues
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Old Jan 24, 2004 | 03:39 PM
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From: Hilliard, OH
My setup is:

- Energy suspension control arm and tension rod bushings. (Free with bars below)
- Suspension Techniques 1-1/8" front sway bar, adjustable rear sway bar. ($50 for both used - this was a deal as they were almost new!)
- Eibach springs ($234 mail order)
- Front Koni low pressure gas ($75 / pr on eBay)
- Rear Tokico Blues ($64 / pr mail order somewhere)

The rear bushings are still the original 160,000 mile stock bushings. I plan on replacing the lower trailing arm bushings with new stock ones, and ensuring everything else moves freely and is not overly deteriorated.

This is a reasonable setup for local autocrossing and daily driving. Not too harsh, but way better than stock. Good balance, and the adjustable rear bar is good to dial in oversteer for autocross.

I wanted to go coil overs and camber plates, along with some other stuff, but this was a budget project.

Rich
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Old Jan 24, 2004 | 04:02 PM
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You don't want to put urethane bushings in the rear suspension, but you do wnat to put new rubber ones in if they're old. Urethane bushings in the front suspension and sway bars made a noticeable difference in responsiveness in my car. It rode stiffly before so I didn't notice any ride degradation.
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Old Jan 25, 2004 | 03:54 AM
  #6  
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From: Here.
bushings

why cant u put bushings in the rear?
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Old Jan 25, 2004 | 07:05 AM
  #7  
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www.pbandjracing.com Look in teh tech section.
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Old Jan 25, 2004 | 10:05 AM
  #8  
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Rx7carl, You should sell the modified bushings and nylocks as a kit.
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Old Jan 25, 2004 | 10:52 AM
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Originally posted by purple82
Rx7carl, You should sell the modified bushings and nylocks as a kit.


It seems like Ground Control's Panhard bar would be cheap and easy to install. I know that on PB&J racing it mentions that the panhard is not a good choice for the street, why?
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Old Jan 25, 2004 | 12:36 PM
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From: michigan
Yeah - i wish there was kit out there for rear end mods - I really dont want to mess with what I really dont understand. It would be nice to just have everything and a set of instructions.
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Old Jan 25, 2004 | 01:23 PM
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From: Hilliard, OH
I can't speak for the Ground Control panhard setup. However, the one I have on my ITA car is a bolt on model that is fairly weak - I have had to refab the mounts. I have heard of other panhard setups being somewhat weak, so make sure you get a strong one. I know the latest one from gForce Engineering is pretty stout.

I would think the real disadvantage of a panhard on the street is noise. All of the ones I have seen on the market use solid bushings (rod ends) which need to be cleaned fairly regularly and are noisy.
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Old Jan 25, 2004 | 01:48 PM
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From: Ottawa, Soviet Canuckistan
Carl, why haven't you posted your race site before? Or even just put it in your sig? I've been on here over a year and can't remember ever seeing you post it?

Maybe it's just my memory Stupid goldfish memory (six seconds)
Jon
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Old Jan 26, 2004 | 09:33 PM
  #13  
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I could sell you guys the nuts as I had to buy by the box to get them. If there interest I might do it. I'd rather supply the templates for you to do your own drilling as you dont want to pay my hourly rate for hole drilling LOL. And as I mentioned, the critical part is the installation. The other stuff is cake.

People had problems with GForce's panhard cause they didnt follow his directions IMHO. I have the old setup and its just as good as the day I installed it. If you over torque the mount, you crush the frame rail.

Jon, I dont post it much. I cant ***** my wares here too much. Rules and all. I do need to update my sig however.
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Old Jan 26, 2004 | 09:47 PM
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From: Issaquah, WA
I've never taken the rear suspension apart, but it sure would be cool if you could drill just the oppoing ends of the bushings and orient them in the rods so that they are soft in vertical motion and still hard in horizontal. This would keep rear steer to a minimum during impacts but help improve suspension travel. Do you think the bushings can be oriented and stay that way?

Last edited by purple82; Jan 26, 2004 at 09:53 PM.
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Old Feb 1, 2004 | 07:38 PM
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From: Arizona
Hey guys-
some talk here of replacing the rear OEM rubber bushings in the rear suspension arms with NEW OEM rubber...I understood that the rubber is basically a part of the arm assy and not OEM replaceable without an all new arm! There is no listing in the parts books for rubber bushings. Am I missing something?? Where can you get these. I am NOT referring to the poly types...
Stu Aull
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Old Feb 1, 2004 | 09:52 PM
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From: Orlando, Fl
AFAIK, you cant. The arm and bushings are a single p/n. For good reason. The rubber is bonded at mfg time of the link itself.
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