Just put my new 3rd member in, put the axles and attached and bolted everything. Went to bleed the brakes and the damn bleeder screw broke off inside the caliper. Had an easy out that I tried to use, didnt even try to torque on it and the tip of the easy out broke off cleanly inside of the bleeder.

So I have a broke bleeder screw with a tip of a easy out broke off in it. Really frustrates me cause these are brand new rear calipers that I spent over a 100 bucks a piece for. Looking for suggestions. I know they make bigger than 5/16 bleeders, drill and tap??

 

Drill and tap, but no need to go oversize, just go slow and easy then you should able to use a stock thread again. Best way is a drill press and vise, unless you have access to more elaborate equipment.

 

broke off my temp sending unit and a place charged us about $80 to drill it out and put the new one in.

 

Or, you could actually use a smaller drill bit, drill cleanly into the center of the screw, tap that, put in a screw with some loctite, let it sit over night, then remove the whole thing.

Or, start drilling in with a small drill bit, and go progressively larger until you've broken it up enough to get it out.

 

new rear calipers would be the way to go. $50 each.
http://rx7heaven.com/Merchant2/merch...ry_Code=STRSUS

 

Yeah, except he said the current ones are brand new... I don't blame him for not wanting to **** away the money.

 

Yes, but I think he just meant it was new to him - i.e. he bought a used rear end.

I just paid almost $150 Cdn for a new rear caliper for my -SE! so if you can get them for $50, its a lot less headache than trying to drill out a broken easy out (which is nearly impossible)

 

If you can get the easy out, out, and if there is enough of the bleeder to get a hold of with vise grips, add some heat first. Might work best to clamp the vise grips on, the heat the grips so the heat transfers from them to the bleeder.

I've had the same problem with rebuilt 2nd gen calipers. I swear the guy rebuilding the caliper put the wrong thread sealant/lock on the bleeder.

 

Haha, that's another one of those things I always put antiseize on now (as per that thread the other day).

 

No, looks brand new to me... Of course, if they are brand new, and they busted, I'd take that **** back and have them replaced.

 

Sorry, you're right. I guess the diff is used and he bought new calipers.

I'd bring them back in a hurry too. I have a feeling since he tried and easy out, they might not like that too much, and would have just preferred he bring them back as soon as the bleeder broke. I'd try anyway though - nothing lost.

 

yea, the calipers are new, I wasnt swapping the entire rear, just the 3rd member. I have a buddy that works at Advance where I got he calipers from and they have a 1yr replacement on them, but I dont think it covers this.

Im gonna try and drill it as you all suggested, was thinking it was gonna be difficult for the easy out is harder than the bleeder screw. I wish there was enough of it sticking up to get channel locks on it but there isnt

 

I think I'd try bringing it back before taking the chance of really screwing it up by drilling.

What most likely happened is that at the rebuilder, they never removed and replaced the bleeder with a new one (which they should have done).

At the VERY least, I'd phone them and ask them what they think you should do before going any farther. Then you would get a feel for their attitude. They may just tell you to bring it back as soon as you mention the problem.

 

the problem is the rebuilders use the cheapes POS bleeders they can find. I would take them back and ask them how they would have done it. It is a bleeded screw not a rebuilt rotary engine. they only come off one way(force). and if it was rebuilt they shouldn't be seized or rusted together. go in when they are real busy so that can't get to pissy(saturday is uasally busy at parts stores). if your friend is cool he should hook you up.


here is another option for when this happens. first never use the cheap easy outs they sell at autoparts store, the small one(the ones you need the most)are always crap. use a good easyout, you will know they are good when they are NOT cheap.

find a Snap-On truck and ask the driver to get you the easy out drill bit set. it is a 5 drill bit set that works by reversing the drill bit itself. so you tighten the bit in the chuck and put that monster in reverse instead of forward. It works really well for drilling it out and usually catches the screw or bolt and releases it and spins it out. for really rusted and corroded its not the best but has still suprised me when used with PB Blaster. if not it at least drills the hole to clean it out or so you can use a quality easy out. the bits are $50-75

good luk mane

 

If returning the new caliper doesn't go, I'd do what saltyslug said. But I'd spray what's left of the screw with brake cleaner, drain, and let dry.

Then soak it overnite in PB B'laster or Kryoil, spraying it several times a day/nite. Then take a good quality small diameter drill bit (titanium coated or Carbide) and drill it in slowly, IN REVERSE. If the drill has a low speed or low torque option I use that. And if your drill has a clutch set that to a medium setting, like 14 or so.

I use this technique first before using the Easy-Out. Sometimes it'll catch the screw and unthread it real nice.

In general before installing new calipers/wheel cylinders, I remove those screws and put a dab of anti-seize on them before installing on car/truck/REPU. Gives piece of mind.

Be sure to clean/extract any metal shavings before installing.

Best of luck!!!!!!1

 

Damn, glad you guys said something, I never would of thought of doing that. Went up there and talked to my friend at Advance and he ordered me a new one. Said they have alot of returns like this on these rebuilt calipers and it wasnt a problem. I didnt think they would do it on the account that it coulda been my fault from over tightening it and the fact that it has a broke off easy out in it.

I know Im buying some more anti sieze