bshusted

iTrader: (1)

3" is not noticeably wider? I think I've shown in my pics above that there is certainly a noticeable difference.

rotaryboy23

iTrader: (1)

lol. I suspected he 5-bolt pattern would be a problem, so it sounds like bshusted's guy wouldn't work, although I really appreciate the offer bshusted!

. As for selling my Kosei's, I'm a step ahead of you! They're for sale on Kijiji and here, and I've got a few 5x114.3 wheels bookmarked. The only interest I've got so far is from Nova Scotia, and I'm not sure if it's going to be worth it to ship them. I don't even have a Paypal account right now. I just wasn't sure how I was going to the 5 bolt on the rear end. Sounds like you've got the solution for me if I beg! Thanks chief!

I got the AGX adjustables, so I'm hoping 175 will be enough. Aren't RacingBeat's drop Springs only 145lb? This should be plenty stiff! Mine's not a track car! (well, not full time anyway)

rotaryboy23

iTrader: (1)

Bigger brakes, 4-piston calipers. And the wheels selection for 5-bolt is teh sex.
Although at +40 Offset, I'm finding it hard to get one's I like,

82transam

iTrader: (18)

Yeah to be honest I can't find too many wheels in 5 lug with the 40mm offset that I actually like either. I like the FC Vert wheels I have on my T2 FB but I really want a konig rewind type wheel for it, but they don't make them in 5 lug....

peejay

Well, you must have used one of those Pontiac "Wide Track" FCs, then, because the track width for me did not change appreciably.

Let's put it this way: There is zero tire-fender interference with 195/60-15 sized rally tires on 240SX wheels, while I had rubbing going on with 225/50-15 on Kosei 15x7 15mm offset wheels on the stock 12A suspension. So, looking at apples and oranges, a narrower tire on a narrower wheel didn't rub where a wider tire on a wider wheel did... Conclusion?

I had no track related issues and didn't get any negative camber from the subframe swap alone - I had to get adjusters. I have made no measurements, but this does tell me that, at the very least, the strut towers are in the same spot FB vs. FC.

82transam

iTrader: (18)

Peejay, I could be wrong, but I think what bshusted is saying (and measurements i've done seem to tell me the same) is that the overall track width doesn't change much because the FC runs a fairly high offset wheel of 40mm, but the measurment from hub to hub is quite a bit wider, again its the wheel offset that keeps it from resulting in a wider track width in the end.

On a side note, I'm thinking of doing a FC subframe on my T2 FB so I've been taking some measurments. I forget the exact numbers since I did this a few months ago, but the overall track width of my FC is actually a bit narrower than that of my FB with T2 hubs and FC Vert wheels (with 25mm spacers to avoid rubbing).... Not significantly less, but still I was surprised to see that, especially since the FC looks so fat compared to a FB haha

rotaryboy23

iTrader: (1)

I've looked into it. IIRC, the difference in track width is only 30mm, but the different offsets of the wheels make things complicated. I plan to wait until everything's bolted down to measure and pic my wheels. Chances are, I'll be running a +40 offset wheel... Ugly.

peejay

And my point is, using the wrong wheels is no reason to claim that it increases track width.

It's little different than the GSL-SE which uses the same offset wheels.

Put an FC four-lug front end on, and GSL-SE rear, and it's so close to the same that there's no appreciable difference.

I've heard that the five lug hubs are slightly different, but they're not an inch and a half per side different. And even so, if you're going to five lug, you're probably doing it so you can sling a Ford or Toyota truck rearend under the car, in which case track width is the absolute least of your concerns.

BTW - I am, in fact, looking into a Toyota truck rearend... but then I'd have to get all new wheels AGAIN. Plus I'd have to hunt down 5-lug hubs which seem to be made of gold, and I'd much rather continue using the sliding single-pot calipers than the (even more) problematic four-pot units... and wheels larger than 14" look stupid on a 1st-gen anyway, so why would I intentionally go there?

rotaryboy23

iTrader: (1)

^I resent that last one. lol. Why are 4-pot's problematic?

nofords

iTrader: (9)

My car looks stupid? Waaaaahh

The whole point here is that with the FC front end, you have an offset differential between the front and rear.

with a 7" wide wheel, +35 offset and no wider than a 205 and you have the front taken care of. rears need less offset and more width to run the same wheel in the rear to keep the track true. Example: My car has 1" spacers in the rear and I run approximately 1" overall track narrower in the rear than the front using same wheel/tire combo.

Why 5bolt? you get the larger rotors and calipers, better wheel choice.

Why not 4 Bolt? basically stuck in the same territory as GSL-SE and so...why bother.

how do you make the rear 5bolt? you put on a 5 lug rotor and drill away. not too much effort required there. just get the axles to a drill press. makes life a whole lot easier.

peejay

Yes your car looks weird. So does mine, so does everyone else's. Oh well.

Your method of redrilling hubs scares me... I haven't ever seen brake rotors that had the holes precisely drilled. In fact, usually they are way off base. if it's worked for you, great, but I'd do it differently.

At any rate, you're still describing a problem that is a result of using the wrong wheels at one end or the other. Again, GSL-SE - which use the same offset - are basically the same and it makes no difference there.

I don't like the 4-pots because I've never seen any that didn't have at least one stuck piston. I have a hard enough time keeping the iron calipers from siezing pistons due to corrosion, let alone worrying about four of them in an aluminum housing.

Plus they require 15" wheels, which really limits one for wheel/tire choice. And the iron calipers can be had fairly inexpensively in the aftermarket.

nofords

iTrader: (9)

I guess I should have been more clear. I am running a GSL-SE rear in the car in my avatar and am still requiring to put 1" spacers out back for track width. The wheel purchase made was for a 86-92 turbo car and I would not want a higher offset as they are already close to the shock, so close in fact that I am running 5/16" spacers up front to keep the tire away. I could probably correct this problem by replacing the front tire (225) with a 205 and it would probably be fine and wouldn't require flares either.

The nice thing about the GSL and GSLSE is that they have the same ID on the rear rotor. you place the rotor on the hub, line it up as best you can so that you have equal spacing between the old lug holes and drill. Press in new 2.5" corvette studs and Voila. You can use a single stud on GSL-SE flanges to lock down the rotor and drill the other 4 w/o re-indexing the lugs. after you're done drilling, punch out the last lug and press in new ARP Corvette studs and you are good to go!

You may not like the process and I have to admit I was hesitant too but, but myself and a couple others (including several this forum) are running high HP/TQ through stock LSD rears and not having any issues. I have not heard of any failing because of flange fracture. Lots break the axles themselves and mostly due to unsprung clutches and tight corners.

The other thing that must really comment on is that you cannot increase the power output of the engine and neglect the only thing that will stop you from creaming into the car in front of you, either on the street or the track. Using larger brakes is a must. In this case the OP is placing an engine that has more output and higher potential for more if he puts on "Bolt-On's" or trades the N/A for Turbo. Your there now, do it while the doing's good. I hate nothing worse than buying parts or doing work twice.

Are you basing the 4 pot caliper issues on first hand knowledge or speculation? I have about 11 or 12 sets of 4 pots here (and acquiring more all the time) in varying stages of decay. Even the ones I found on a car that was up to the frame in goose guano still work. they are stiff and may lot look that great, but work. They are easy to rebuild costing approximately $17ea in parts ($35 for the kit from Atkins that does both) and $20 for the brake cylinder hone. They produce more stopping power than their iron single piston cousins and if I really want...I can buy new re-man's locally for $88cdn ea. all day long.

Now, I won't argue about the 15" wheel Business. For me, it wasn't a problem. I wanted 16x7's to run a specific tire in my race class and personally, 15's or 16's are the perfect size for the car. The age of wide, lower profile, small rim diameter tires are on their way out if not left entirely.

I have to do the same thing on my supra. Stock wheels are 14x8 and trying to get tires to fit that wheel w/o being single purpose and $200 & up each are non-existent. 16" wheels are on order, although bigger brakes are too.

peejay

The scary part isn't strength, the scary part is the lack of accuracy with regards to concentricity with the axle centerline, or if the studs are off a little bit there or there.

I won't comment on the brakes, other than that I really miss my 12A brakes, which seem to have had better feel and grip than the FC/GSL-SE setup. Probably a pad selection problem, though.

4-pot experience is personal! But then, I'm in a worse climate than yours. Everything brake and suspension related has a short life because of the salt. Even on cars I don't drive in the winter, caliper siezure is a regular occurrence.

nofords

iTrader: (9)

I would tend to argue that point.

Anyways, did you swap over the booster/MC/Valve from a 4pot car?

I've driven cars with 12A brakes and I'll take my current setup any day. The issue for my application is that in the RX7 Spec class (which I do not run), the cars have a hard time keeping rotors from warping or cracking due to the excess heat it takes from having to put so much pressure on them tiny discs.

As far as eccentricities go, as long as the wheel is hub centric, by rings or other means, the lugs will perform as required. If you are off multiples of mm, it's a different ball of wax. and the rotors won't even fit. If you use the 12mm drill bit and use the 5x114.3 disc as a template...even if you are off on your studs by a fraction of a mm it isn't going to be of any issue.

rotaryboy23

iTrader: (1)

Think these will seize?

nofords

iTrader: (9)

Purdy!