1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

Stumble, Runs Jerky...

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Old 01-19-07, 10:58 PM
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Question Stumble, Runs Jerky...

Ok, Lets start with what i know, and hope i can explain what going on.

I have an 82 se.. i think. carb, drums in the back, open diff... I know its an 82. i know it is not the top of the line version. 12A, Stock carb., non California version. 1 main cat, 1 small cat. (stock exhaust i think)

I have recently learn the motor was replaced at 100k miles, it has 150k-ish now. i have put 4k to 5k miles on it. Up to about a couple of weeks ago it has ran great. This is my first Rotary, and Carb.

I have replaced most of the vacuum lines, fuel filter, plugs, wires, coils, air filter. All the fluids.

We have set the timing, done a compression test (3 even wooh'es on both).

Ok... The car ran great, until i replaced vacuum lines. Vacuum lines are the last thing i have changed (I have found broken lines and they need to be replaced.). Now, Sometimes it runes fine, and it feels like the power just dies out but kicks right back in, very noticeable while cruising.

Then some times it runs like crap. With the clutch in at a stop it takes a good 12 seconds to just rev the car to 5k. It shakes! It sounds funky. You can drive it. but it takes some work. The idle sets in at about 1200 to 1500. But while you drive, some times it will kick in, and run fine. Let me explain. WOT so that you can get the car to sluggishly get to the middle of 1st. Shift to second, again takes for ever to get it to pull to about 4.5k then it "bucks" and rips through the rest of the gear, shift, (to 3rd) back to bad running.

While cruising the car will bounce back and forth, some times it work, for a couple seconds some times it works for a min or two. Then back to not working right.

I have tried searching, but i have no idea what i am looking for, or what to call this. Like i said, it is intermediate. Some times it works fine. Now, most of the time it does not.

Oh and another i have noticed is some times i get it work for little bit if i rev it out, and then drop the clutch. I has trying to get on the highway and it stopped trying, and i was already in a bad place.

Another problem i am having is can't find my setup in any books. I have the rat nest, but mine has 5 control solendoids, the book covers 3,4, and 6.

If you need any more info i can get it. Hope i didn't miss any thing you need.
Old 01-19-07, 11:07 PM
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Well, if it started when you changed vacuum hoses thats where you need to go back to.
Find member Trochoid profile then click on to the link for the factory service manuals. If your hood has not been replaced then on the underside should also be a picture of the emission hose routing.
Old 01-19-07, 11:21 PM
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or go to the faq page and find rats nest removale and get rid off the whole thing if u dont have smog in ur state
Old 01-20-07, 11:50 AM
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I had a very similar experience with my 85 GS, I replaced the vacuum lines and alternator belt and it started running alot like you have described, I was dumbfounded for a good week or so.... After alot of trial and error, what seemed to be my problem was a plugged up carb, maybe replacing the vacuum lines and increasing airflow through the system knocked particals loose and plugged up somewhere?, I dont know, I ran a rich mixture of seafoam through my tank and sprayed a little through some of the vacuum lines and noticed a great difference. Another thing I did, although Im not sure how much it matters, was take apart each control solonoid air filter and clean it with some alcohol, I figured it couldnt hurt, and Ill say it did some good if only to justify the time I wasted F*cking around with those stupid things. lol
The other major part of my problem was the cats were just plain burnt out. After I got it to run better, it still didnt please me, so I decided to rip out my cats and replace them with a straight pipe, the second I pulled the big cat I knew my problem was there. It was so dead that there were about 10 inches of steel mesh forced into the pipe leading to the muffler and large chunks of the guts of the cat plugging up everything. So after I finished that, I was finally happy. It ran great and only got greater after I completely removed the emissions.
Hopefully your problem is as simple to fix as mine was. Good luck!
Old 01-20-07, 12:33 PM
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On the weird noise. Does it sound like a loud honking noise at idle?
Old 01-21-07, 10:26 AM
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Naw, not a honking noise. i really don't know what it sounds like. Any other sounds you can thing of? nothing comes to mind to describe it.

The Main Vacuum solenoid has been replaced, i broke it while changing some of the lines. The actual name is not coming to me right now. I'll clean the other ones though. I'm not removing my emission sorry. I need the best gas mileage i can get.

I fear taking the exhaust off, all the bolt are so rusted i don't know if where to try to get it off if it would go back on. But if i take it off at the header / cats and it runs good does that make the problem the cats?

And if so any ideas on making it quit again until I can afford a new exhaust?
Old 01-21-07, 11:05 AM
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Can you take detailed pictures of the rats nests and all angles of the carb and post them?
Old 01-21-07, 12:59 PM
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Well if you cant describe the sound can you at least locate it? My mystery noise was coming from my carb. Being all plugged up made it sound odd sometimes. Does it make the sound at idle? Can you put your head in the engine bay and try to hear where it is coming from?
In order to check your exhaust, see if you can take the cats off just after the header and right after the big cat. When working with old exhaust bolts always use finesse, patience, and a penetrating lubricant such as WD-40, LiquidWrench, or my personal faveorite Aerokroil (if you can find it). Put your car up on ramps and get the exhaust pipe so it is cool enough so you can touch it, but as hot as you can handle as the metal being warm is important. Spray it with lube and wait a few mins for it to do its magic, then slip the box-end of a wrench over it and see if you can turn it off directing all your strength into keeping a nice even push on it, too much jerking or force could screw you. If that doesnt work then try slipping a cheater bar over the wrench. Also, using a wire brush on the threads is a great help in both removal and reinstallation.
If you manage to get it off, your kinda on your own to identify what kind of shape it is in, mine was obviously dead as hell because the guts were still stuck in the pipe behind the cat. lol.
Also, I was under the impression that the annoying emissions on our cars actually killed gas mileage? Im in search of more power so I dont care about such things.
I hope I have helped, Good luck!

Last edited by -=DanK=-; 01-21-07 at 01:06 PM.
Old 01-26-07, 09:59 PM
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Ok i am going back checking all my tubes and make sure they go where they say based on the pic. So far so good. i did miss some lines. So getting them replaced.

But i found some thing new. While i had the air cleaner/handler off (the big blue thing) i plugged the idle compensator hose like it said. I found the car ran better, not great though, at idle. Rev'ed better. One of the tubes, the one that goes from the blue guy down to what is labled as the cruse valve, was making a loud hissing noise. so i plug it with my thumb and the started running much better. so i plug that hose, and the blue guy, and went for a drive. The car runs much better. Not prefect, but all the problems i have talking about went away.

It has some other problems that are of slight inconvenience. but the car runs and gets good gas millage. (21 ish)

Some of the old problems that are back, for reference. The car does not like to engine brake below 2.5k rpm. (It jumps round, and get jerky) Has a missing sound (at idle), this is what i was told it sounded like. Never heard any thing miss before. It's real picky when cold about how much peddle you give it and how fast. Likes to die.

Also i think i forgot to say this, about idle speed. When it is running bad it likes to idle 1200 to 1500, but will get down to 750- 900. Running like it is now. it likes 1000 to 1100, but runs smooth. Not perfectly smooth, but smooth. Idle is normally stable, does not hunt where ever it picks to go. (i give ranges 'cause i'm not good at estimating)

But any ways. Got any clues on what this means? All i have done is plugged the tube from the air handler to the valve. Left every thing else hooked up like it should. Also that tube is sucking air, is that what it should do at idle?

**edit**
Sorry forgot to say, Having troubles getting a camera. Don't think i will be able to get pics. Sorry.
Old 01-26-07, 10:25 PM
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Sounds like you are refeering to the shutter valve. Are you refeering to the large hose that is closest to the driverside and goes from the shutter valve to the air cleaner assembly. There will be only 2 hoses on that side from the air cleaner to the engine. One is a small hose and the other is much larger.
Old 01-27-07, 10:50 AM
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Yes it is the larger of the two. The smaller is the Idle Compensator hose.

I was wrong it is labeled as Coasting Valve. Sorry.
Old 01-27-07, 11:11 AM
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It is leaking if it is making noise and is a major source of a vacuum leak. It will cause multiple problems especially when going to get the vehicle smogged. It's job is to cut off fuel to the rear rotor during deacceleration to lower emissions.
Old 01-27-07, 01:27 PM
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With out looking anything up, i guess the carb has got to come off to get it off? Probably easier to get to it any ways i would think.

Does a vacuum leak sound like problem? With the car having a loss of power, for bit then working fine, and then back to not working?

How long can i drive it like it is? Should i stay away from long trips? Is it a big thing?
Old 01-27-07, 09:48 PM
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Thanks guys i have found the part in my book that tells me how to test the valve, and it checks bad according to the book.

I'll work on getting it replaced. Thanks for getting me there. Any thing else to look at while I'm looking at valves?
Old 04-12-07, 11:27 AM
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I just wanted to post my fix. In all of my great trouble shooting i missed that fact that all the solenoids where not grounded. The bolt that mounts the bracket that holds the solenoids to the motor had come loose. This is where the grounds mount. Tighten the bolt down and all went back to normal.

Thanks for the help people.
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