theFBthatcould

ok this started afetr blew an ignitor with the 2nd gen coil mod
i replaced the ignitor and fired it up warmed it up and adjusted the idle slightly (960 to an even 1000) drove it to the store and back home again then i didn't drive for like a day or so i went to start it to go some where and it did this listen closely in the first minute in the vid i have to rev it to about 3k to 3500 to get it to sound normal any insight to this would be appreciated

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E3aFsBEtwS8

jinxed4dub

iTrader: (7)

It sounds like a weak battery (loose alt belt), the 2gdfis isn't too bad but if you do it and don't replace the heatsink on the igniters they can overheat. I blew one and replaced it with fresh heatsink no problems since.

theFBthatcould

naw brand new belt (got it after the vid and its still doin it) newish batt good connections .... and when i did the 2gdfis mod i re pasted the ignighters with some 25$an oz thermal paste from radio shack its the **** your supposed to use on quad-core processors

jimbowatson2002

ok ive heard that sound b4 bc i had that problem. the resaon it sounds like that until u get it realy goin is bc only one rotor is working until u get into higher rpms. u said u changed to the 2nd gen coil mod (im not too familiar with that) but the prob with mine was the little ignitor module that goes on the distributor. i found a good one at a junk yard bc they r pricey for a new one, but u can get it at blackdragon auto for 180. like i said this sounds exactly like wut ive been through.

theFBthatcould

i replaced the ignightors already lets put it this way the entire igntion system is new

plugs
wires
ignightors
coils
cap
rotor

rxtasy3

iTrader: (2)

yes it was running on one rotor. that's what happens when there's too much fuel in one rotor, that plug is too wet to fire. flooding the plugs like that will foul them. replacement is the only remedy. and u shouldn't be revving a cold engine like that.

theFBthatcould

so what is causing the xtra fuel??

and im only revin to 3k-3.5k which is where it idles on full choke

rxtasy3

iTrader: (2)

not sure since i don't know the condition of ur carb and probably just need new plugs to remedy the problem. i've found that as these cars get older along with all the miles on them and the care given to them over the yrs, or how long they been sitting when u get them, more finesse is need to get them started. 3k is about right at full choke. on the next cold start before u pull the choke, spin it on the starter a couple seconds then pull the choke and see if it does any better.

jinxed4dub

iTrader: (7)

So I was looking at your video again, and saw that the rats nest is removed, what did you cap on the shutter valve. I caped it the wrong way and it was running like that. ran fine at first then blah. If you can get it twards this way I can show you how to remove the thing. I think mine runs better without it.

jimbowatson2002

what type of plugs are u useing

Kentetsu

Since you had your ignition issue, and replaced the ignitor, have you confirmed that you now have spark on all plugs?

theFBthatcould

yup spark on all plugs vreified


im useing the 4 post sidefire ngks not sure on the number i dont wanna go out side atm but they are what napa gave me

theFBthatcould

ok can i meet u in jensen beach sometime cause im broke as hell and cant afford gas just send me a pm

jinxed4dub

iTrader: (7)

Doubt we could do it at jenson beach, and I can't go into washington for 10 more months. You must remove the intake manifold, and carb. you also must drain the coolant. so you would need to have some cash to get more antifreeze, and a intake manifold gasket. Plus you must wait for the JB weld to cure. of corse you can tap and plug it, but I'm not sure what size plug that would be.

blackdeath647

iTrader: (2)

this problem happened to me last week. i would crank, it would take forever to crank up almost flooding it, a bit of backfire, then it would make that noise until i revved it up to about 3k then it'd stop, it wouldn't do it again til the next cold start.

It took me 3 days to figure it out and it finally hit me out of nowhere. The Temperatures in NC hadn't been below freezing since i'd owned the car, so when i removed all emissions the cold start assist went too. i never plugged the vacuum for it, and also remember that the car is from Japan, so it the port opens at 0*C not 0*F lol. (0*C = 32*F just fyi). This nipple creates a vacuum once the engine reaches below freezing temperatures, and it closes once the engine warms up.

Long story short, you need to plug the nipple on the carb where your cold start assist hooks up to...or re-install your cold start assist with 90% antifreeze and 10% water.

if it's not this (which i'm almost 100% sure it is) check for a small vacuum leak from that hose that's close to the firewall on the intake manifold right above the exhaust, it gets burnt and creates a vacuum going straight into that rear rotor.

theFBthatcould

all vac lines r pluged and when i got the car from derak cold start was already gone but ill do a once over on the vac caps and report back