1984 GS with 42K original miles. Car rides solid and straight, but has some slop around steering center and that little bit of vagueness when you turn. car is 100% stock. I don't know if the bushings are original or not, but I assume they might be. Am reading that it may be as simple as replacing two bushings. Can anyone provide a link to photos or videos or a resource? I learn very well by seeing before doing, or if anyone wants to explain to me like I am 5 that would be great too!

Here is what I found searching "Jack up the front tire on that side of the car, just enough to clear the ground. Pull out the cotter pin, and remove the nut. This will allow the idler arm to be removed from the frame sleeve without much trouble. replace the bushings, and apply liberal amount of wheel bearing grease. Reverse the disassembly to assemble"

Is it REALLY that simple? I've read other people say they need some kind of separator or need to apply a torch to it; or is that for replacing the entire idler arm? I'd like to try replacing just the bushings if this is a DIY in the garage task without needing special tools.

What's the best/easiest way to check if the bushings are worn before pulling things apart (what to grab and where to shake)?

Thanks in advance for your patience and help.

 

Welcome Jrod:
First check it for wear by pulling on the arm assy. If the arm is movable within the mount, then yes you should replace them (there are 2, an upper and lower). The description you found pretty much sums it up. This is pretty straightforward. FWIW mine are original at 100K mi and are fine, so generally yours "should" be healthy at 42K mi. You prob know by now that steering-play at center is pretty normal. Have you checked the oil level in your steering box? There is a nut assy there on top that can be tightened (do NOT over-tighten!!) to knock out some of slop.

Stu Aull
80GS
AZ

 

Thanks for the tips. The steering is nice and firm off center and given the age it makes sense the bushings are worn but the steering firms up once the suspension takes a set during a turn.

Should I need anything like clamps, hammers, pickle fork, torch, etc. to change bushings, or should this just be a 10 minute "by hand" task? Just want to make sure I don't open up some Pandora's box of issues trying to change the bushings.

I'll have to order myself a maintenance manual and read up before I go deeper and try to make any adjustments to the steering box; I'm not sure that is needed yet, seems like the bushings should b the first thing to change and eliminate.

 

 

If you never want to change bushings again ( they get fried by the exhaust, especially when running headers) get the Moog idler arm. Its a much better made piece.

 

Thanks for the link to the manual and the tip on the Moog. Since the car is 100% stock and original from the first owner, I'd like to keep it as stock as possible. Maybe the differences in the job I am reading have to do with swapping bushings versus swapping out the whole idler? I can swap bushings if it is DIY, but I'm not comfortable using torches, etc. It has been a very long time since I've owned and worked on a classic car so appreciate the helpful tips.

 

I took mine out to replace the bushings, it can be hard to seperate the tapered ball joint on the idler arm from the steering center link, I know many use a torch to help loosen the fit. If you have a big hammer and pry bar you should be able to get it off though.

 

Does it need to come out or was that your choice (extra step)? I guess I want to avoid breaking something in my garage

 

I'd second and highly recommend the Moog part. It's an easy swap and makes quite a bit of difference in the overall feel of the steering. Only a discerning eye would notice. It's not a Fast and Furious racing part that screams aftermarket. Unless you're doing concours car shows - you might consider just boxing the original part, and running the upgraded part, until you sell.

 

It doesn't need to come off. This is a 10-minute job.

Back when I had the stock assembly, I didn't even bother to jack it up. If you have the 2 bushings in hand (they're the same upper and lower), then remove the cotter pin going through the castle nut, remove the castle nut, big washer, and you'll be looking at the top rubber bushing. Push the arm down out of tbe mount, and you'll have access to the bottom bushing. Replace the bottom bushing and GREASE LIBERALLY. Push the arm up into the mount, FILL THE CAVITY WITH GREASE, then install the greased top bushing, big washer, castle nut, and new cotter pin. Done.

it's also only a 30-minute job to replace the stock part with the LIFETIME Moog idler arm, but you want to keep it stock. The Moog part prevents you from ever needing to do this job again, and cleans up the steering considerably.