steering gear box adjustment
#1
Richard
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steering gear box adjustment
My screw was all the way in and I had allot of play... went to back it out and it broke. I put another bolt on top of it with a nut and lock washer and got my steering back! Is there anything inside that box I can attempt to fix by opening it up? I'm afraid of parts poping out. Where can I find a diagram of it? I know I need to replace the whole thing and as soon as I can I'll buy a new unit but in the meantime what am I in for?
#3
Richard
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can't find link
I'm having trouble with the FAQ section. No matter what I put in I can't get a result. Could you tell me what to type in please?
Sorry about my stupidity.
Rich
Sorry about my stupidity.
Rich
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They use to sell parts for the steering box on Mazdatrix but not sure if they still do i have the same prob but my screw losens itself up after a few bumps in the road which is every 5 ft living in NYC. But i have another box to take out of my other FB. If you have no luck and arent too far from NYC my boy has 3 RX7's that are he is gonna eventually scrap maybe you can see if he wants to sell or what. Sorry I couldn't be of much help but i have never taken the screw out only tightened it on 2 out of the 3 FB's ive owned
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Originally Posted by PSYCOM
I'm having trouble with the FAQ section. No matter what I put in I can't get a result. Could you tell me what to type in please?
Sorry about my stupidity.
Rich
Sorry about my stupidity.
Rich
There is an excellent writeup, but note there were a few varieties of boxes with slightly different adjustments. Some can only be adjusted in 2 places, others 3 places. I've done mine, and it works miracles.
#6
Richard
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Thanks everyone, found it.
I found the FSM and that is the thing I need to find. Thank you trochoid for your help! I'll check for the article. I'm on dial up also so I feel your pain.
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#8
Richard
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From what I've read I've got mine too tight! It must be worn to death after 160K and no oil in it when I bought it! I'm going to try and back off the big ring and then tighten up the middle screw again. It seems these two work together. I'm not getting a full return to center. Worst case is a new box for 600 bucks but then that's god for another 20 years so It'd be worth it. I'll have to open it up and see what I can figure out as soon as the engine gets put in my 300zx. Be nice if I could take my 88 rx and use those parts. By the way are the air flow meters exchangeable in the 1st and 2nd gen on FI NA's? They want 900 bills for those!
#10
Richard
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what engine and tranny do you have? I just bought a brand new Nissan short block and a reman head so I've got a new engine but this is the vg30e. I'd love to get ahold of a turbo. I've also got the 5 speed. What else do you have. I'm keeping the 300zx until I die so parts are good to have.
#11
Old Fart Young at Heart
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I bought an 87 NA for parts that I need to finish off the 84 I'm restoring. I saved most of the useable parts so i could sell off what I don't need. Since you probably know more about the ZX's, what is a decent engine and tranny worth with a complete harness?
I also have a clunk in the rear end when engaging the clutch with the e-brake on. If it was a 2nd gen 7, I would know exactly what's broke, but I'm not that familiar with the Z's. I'm guessing it is a diff mount, don't know which one, what or where.
I also have a clunk in the rear end when engaging the clutch with the e-brake on. If it was a 2nd gen 7, I would know exactly what's broke, but I'm not that familiar with the Z's. I'm guessing it is a diff mount, don't know which one, what or where.
#12
Richard
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I realy don't know the prices. I've got 1750 into a "New" engine and that was a deal! Most rebuilts are 2400 or so plus 1800 for an R&R (22 hrs!). They make a kit to drop that engine into a RX7!
The wiring harness you'd better keep cause you may need it. Those cars had an injector recall... look it up. I got my 88 recall done in 2004! Injectors leaked in the "Z31" series and the spark plug boots tended to pop up because of the design. Picture the results... arching with gas! That's why not many of those cars are around! They all burnt up which is why I say keep the wiring. The engine (VG30E) is the same thing that's in a maxima and all Z31's. Look up the history on that baby... with a rebuild it can take 1000hp and stock it'll handle 650hp. Honestly I'd keep it and make it into a project engine. That's what I'm doing with my old one. The drive shaft is a bugger from what I hear! No advice as I'm new to the Z's.
And the rearend should be checked to see if you've got one that's a lsd... turn one wheel and if the other goes the same way it's an lsd.
PITSTOP books in Australia has the Z31 workshop manual. 90 bucks plus 60 to ship it but it's 2 volumes and it covers everything, printed by Nissan and brand new. Buy it!
That's the best honest advice I can give you. All your parts are interchangeable and hopefully you don't have a digital dash! Go to Z31.com and look up my posts. They cover alot of what you may be wondering.
I need a fuel pulsator dampener for my 2nd gen RX. Got one? Also cluctch hose for the bleeder.
Thanks and good luck.... Rich
The wiring harness you'd better keep cause you may need it. Those cars had an injector recall... look it up. I got my 88 recall done in 2004! Injectors leaked in the "Z31" series and the spark plug boots tended to pop up because of the design. Picture the results... arching with gas! That's why not many of those cars are around! They all burnt up which is why I say keep the wiring. The engine (VG30E) is the same thing that's in a maxima and all Z31's. Look up the history on that baby... with a rebuild it can take 1000hp and stock it'll handle 650hp. Honestly I'd keep it and make it into a project engine. That's what I'm doing with my old one. The drive shaft is a bugger from what I hear! No advice as I'm new to the Z's.
And the rearend should be checked to see if you've got one that's a lsd... turn one wheel and if the other goes the same way it's an lsd.
PITSTOP books in Australia has the Z31 workshop manual. 90 bucks plus 60 to ship it but it's 2 volumes and it covers everything, printed by Nissan and brand new. Buy it!
That's the best honest advice I can give you. All your parts are interchangeable and hopefully you don't have a digital dash! Go to Z31.com and look up my posts. They cover alot of what you may be wondering.
I need a fuel pulsator dampener for my 2nd gen RX. Got one? Also cluctch hose for the bleeder.
Thanks and good luck.... Rich
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Originally Posted by PSYCOM
From what I've read I've got mine too tight! It must be worn to death after 160K and no oil in it when I bought it! I'm going to try and back off the big ring and then tighten up the middle screw again. It seems these two work together. I'm not getting a full return to center. Worst case is a new box for 600 bucks but then that's god for another 20 years so It'd be worth it. I'll have to open it up and see what I can figure out as soon as the engine gets put in my 300zx. Be nice if I could take my 88 rx and use those parts. By the way are the air flow meters exchangeable in the 1st and 2nd gen on FI NA's? They want 900 bills for those!
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Trochoid im sorry i thought you were near NYC figured it might be easy to get the steering boxes. But if ya decide I'll ask if either of the 2 my Bro or my Boy will sell & ship.Again sorry for not looking at the profile to see the distance
#16
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Max, it's PSYCOM that will need the steering sector, I'm good.
PSYCOM, a word of warning. The steering sector adjustment is the last thing one does in tightening up the steering. All of the other steering components must be addressed first. It is a common mistake to assume the sector needs adjustment, and when adjustment doesn't correct the problem, it gets tightened more, which results on binding and accelerated wear on the worm and ball.
PSYCOM, a word of warning. The steering sector adjustment is the last thing one does in tightening up the steering. All of the other steering components must be addressed first. It is a common mistake to assume the sector needs adjustment, and when adjustment doesn't correct the problem, it gets tightened more, which results on binding and accelerated wear on the worm and ball.
#17
kiwi from downunder..
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here read this
http://www.mazspeed.com/steeringgear.htm
this artical also says to check/replace
"I must stop and point out, that the balance of this article assumes that you have checked and verified that your ball joints, tie rods, idler arm, pitman arm and wheel bearings are all in good condition and properly adjusted. If not, youâll be wasting your time trying to adjust the play out of the steering. "
thought i would add since im readin this article which changed my mind to replace all the rubber thingys etc first
iv got bout 3-4" of play and is havoc if i go over 70mph
http://www.mazspeed.com/steeringgear.htm
this artical also says to check/replace
"I must stop and point out, that the balance of this article assumes that you have checked and verified that your ball joints, tie rods, idler arm, pitman arm and wheel bearings are all in good condition and properly adjusted. If not, youâll be wasting your time trying to adjust the play out of the steering. "
thought i would add since im readin this article which changed my mind to replace all the rubber thingys etc first
iv got bout 3-4" of play and is havoc if i go over 70mph
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Originally Posted by blwfly
here read this
http://www.mazspeed.com/steeringgear.htm
this artical also says to check/replace
"I must stop and point out, that the balance of this article assumes that you have checked and verified that your ball joints, tie rods, idler arm, pitman arm and wheel bearings are all in good condition and properly adjusted. If not, youâll be wasting your time trying to adjust the play out of the steering. "
thought i would add since im readin this article which changed my mind to replace all the rubber thingys etc first
iv got bout 3-4" of play and is havoc if i go over 70mph
http://www.mazspeed.com/steeringgear.htm
this artical also says to check/replace
"I must stop and point out, that the balance of this article assumes that you have checked and verified that your ball joints, tie rods, idler arm, pitman arm and wheel bearings are all in good condition and properly adjusted. If not, youâll be wasting your time trying to adjust the play out of the steering. "
thought i would add since im readin this article which changed my mind to replace all the rubber thingys etc first
iv got bout 3-4" of play and is havoc if i go over 70mph
#19
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Originally Posted by trochoid
Max, it's PSYCOM that will need the steering sector, I'm good.
PSYCOM, a word of warning. The steering sector adjustment is the last thing one does in tightening up the steering. All of the other steering components must be addressed first. It is a common mistake to assume the sector needs adjustment, and when adjustment doesn't correct the problem, it gets tightened more, which results on binding and accelerated wear on the worm and ball.
PSYCOM, a word of warning. The steering sector adjustment is the last thing one does in tightening up the steering. All of the other steering components must be addressed first. It is a common mistake to assume the sector needs adjustment, and when adjustment doesn't correct the problem, it gets tightened more, which results on binding and accelerated wear on the worm and ball.
#20
Richard
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I've got an 85 GSL-SE and need the steering box. See if one of them has adjustment left and what type of price we're talking. I've found them for around a 100 bucks but then I don't know much anything about the supplier. Now my brake pedal just started to sink like I've got air in the line but not using fluid. God's way of getting me off the road? I do hear some clunks when turning tight and that didn't happen before I had to crank down the bolt. Trouble coming?
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Originally Posted by PSYCOM
I've got an 85 GSL-SE and need the steering box. See if one of them has adjustment left and what type of price we're talking. I've found them for around a 100 bucks but then I don't know much anything about the supplier. Now my brake pedal just started to sink like I've got air in the line but not using fluid. God's way of getting me off the road? I do hear some clunks when turning tight and that didn't happen before I had to crank down the bolt. Trouble coming?
#22
Richard
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FYI: My steering "fix" is working like a charm! I had to lossed the BIG screw and then re-tighten the middle screw while making sure the unit was filled with grease so it won't leak out. Well my hard steering got allot easier and ther is NO play! I also increased my air pressure to 35lbs which did wonder in itself. MX4 plus michellins.
For now I'm not touching it but enjoying it! I think a little more backing off on the Big screw will help with the centering and tightness. It'as nearly there after my last adjustment.
For now I'm not touching it but enjoying it! I think a little more backing off on the Big screw will help with the centering and tightness. It'as nearly there after my last adjustment.
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