1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

Steering Box Play Adjustment: Procedure Question

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Old Mar 10, 2009 | 10:34 AM
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Steering Box Play Adjustment: Procedure Question

Referring to this thread in the archives:

https://www.rx7club.com/1st-gen-archive-71/steering-stearingbox-play-75257/

In this procedure, it states that it's necessary to disconnect the center link from the Pitman arm "to get accurate results." As you work through the procedure, you're disconnecting and reconnecting the arm a couple times.

Is this really necessary for accurate results? Is it just to make it easier to detect play, or what?

If it's not really necessary, it'd save a lot of time not having to monkey with it.

Anybody know?


Oh, and second question: Has anyone ever bothered to drain and refill their steering gearbox oil? If so, how'd you get the old lube out, without actually removing the gearbox??
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Old Mar 10, 2009 | 03:01 PM
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check out this thread instead. Much simpler procedure that has worked for me and a few others as well. Look for my post in this thread:

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...steering+grind





.
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Old Mar 10, 2009 | 03:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Kentetsu
check out this thread instead. Much simpler procedure that has worked for me and a few others as well. Look for my post in this thread:

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...steering+grind
.
Ok, thanks. In that thread, I first found a link to the origin of the stuff in the archive, then a reference to adjusting the sector shaft lash, and then towards the end, this from you:

Okay, I copied this from an old post that I responded to some time back. Hope this helps. It worked great for me, and was a lot simpler than the other methods. Might be a cheap shortcut, but like I said, it worked so I won't complain....

Okay, if your's is the same as mine, here's whatcha do;

Very important! Grind the beveled edge off of the large socket that you are going to use. It is almost impossible to get that one loose without rounding the corners off even without the bevel on the socket.

Okay, once that is done then get that large nut broken loose. If you manage to do that then you are home free. Once it is loose, then hold it while you turn the next largest nut (mine has a series of holes drilled into it). I used a hammer and cold punch to turn it. Tighten it about 1/8 of a turn, then retighten the large nut and take it for a drive.

This will be a trial and error type of thing. If its still too loose, then tighten that inner nut (the one with the holes in it) another 1/8 turn. If you end up getting it too tight then your steering will loose its self-centering properties and will quickly wear out completely.

I got lucky the first time I tried this. Took it for a drive and there was damn near zero freeplay, but not too tight. I used to have about 2" of freeplay, which was a really exciting setup, but not too practical. Now, when driving down the road small adjustments are almost done telepathically! This changed the entire feel of my car. By far the best thing I have done to it as far as improving the driveability and fun factor...
I'm not sure what I'm supposed to be finding a large socket for, to be ground down: on the SA, the only adjustment is the sector shaft lash (the small screw and locknut adjustment on top), and the worm shaft end play (big nut and locknut that surrounds the steering wheel shaft).

There's no way I can use a socket on the worm shaft nut, as the steering shaft goes through it and through the firewall.

Not arguing, just confused.

Sounds like the bulk of your procedure is the core of the other one, without all the tedious lifting, disassembling, measuring, reassembling, lowering, and repeating.

But how did you loosen that 40mm locknut around the steering shaft, without taking the gear out of the car, or stripping out half the electricals for clearance?
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Old Mar 10, 2009 | 03:29 PM
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Well, it may be different on an SA. On the fb, there is a large flat nut that "surrounds" the little nut with the cap on it. That large thin nut is the one that's tough to get loose.

On a typical american style gear box, you'd have the little screw with a locking nut. Loosen the locking nut, turn the screw in a bit, and you're done. These gear boxes look identical to that, but the function is completely different. Trying to adjust our boxes like you would an american box will end in heartbreak...

Sorry I can't be of more help, but I don't have much experience with the sa models...
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Old Mar 10, 2009 | 03:30 PM
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No problem; thanks for the response anyway.
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Old Mar 14, 2009 | 03:51 PM
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Follow-up; I ended up doing just the top(small slotted scrrew) adjusment, as I could not loosen the wormshaft retaining nut without damaging it; just no room to swing toolswithout removing the brake MC, even with all the electrical moved out of the way. Took nearly a full turn to eliminate the 2" of free play I had in the steering wheel.

I also vacuum-pumped out and replaced the gear oil in there.

Handling is vastly improved, but based on the amount of adjustment needed, I suspect that things are pretty worn inside. I'm going to buy a good used replacement, and then overhaul this one if it's in fit shape inside.

Thanks Ken for responses.
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Old Mar 15, 2009 | 12:34 AM
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No problem man. I've been thinking about the gear oil in the box for the last few days. I've never addressed that. So I'm thinking I should go ahead and replace/refill that and see if it makes any difference.

Man in Black has a steering system that would blow your mind. I'm not clear on what he did, but his steering is so damn light it's just unbelievable. The difference between his car and mine is extreme. I think I have less play, but his feels like Europeon power steering, and it's only manual just like mine. What a difference... I'll see if the oil change helps any, who knows...
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Old Mar 15, 2009 | 12:42 AM
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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
the 79-81.5? box is slightly different than the 82-85 one, it doesnt have the giant nut on it.

i'm not exactly sure when the change happens, sometime in the 81 model year i think.

kenetsu: there are 3 adjustments on the box, i got mine wrong, ive got more play AND more effort, but if you get it right play is gone and effort is minimal.

the 3rd adjsutment, the nut on the column side is the hard one, it must be a weird looking wrench that fits there....

we also adjust the box with the wheels off the ground, that way if you go too tight you can tell
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Old Mar 15, 2009 | 11:15 AM
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The FSM lists a pair of special factory tools for adjusting the column-side (worm gear) nuts; a huge one-purpose ring wrench for the locknut, and a tool that looks like the Hulk's barbecue fork for adjusting the plug. They can only be used with the box out of the car.

The locknut's supposed to be on at something like 125 ftlbs... plus 29 years of corrosion.
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Old Mar 15, 2009 | 12:48 PM
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i had the box out of my car, and gave that one a try, no budge....

the others are nice cause i have that giant long socket.
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