1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

Starting engine rebuild *PICS*

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Old 02-09-04, 11:46 PM
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Starting engine rebuild *PICS*

Took apart the engine to get started rebuilding/porting it. Both rotor housings have chrome flaking off, but everything else is perfect.








Old 02-09-04, 11:47 PM
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it WILL run

 
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thats last pic has a nasty looking apex seal
Old 02-09-04, 11:49 PM
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Apex's are getting replaced anyway, but it's just oil all over it, they are actually in great shape.
Old 02-10-04, 12:05 AM
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clean it up and post pics of it clean or let me come clean it

i can't stand that thing lookin like that
Old 02-10-04, 12:12 AM
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Yeah, it'll all get cleaned soon, I just have to get the rest of the garage cleaned first so I have some room to work.
Old 02-10-04, 12:28 AM
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all aboard!

 
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Originally posted by FC Wanna-B
clean it up and post pics of it clean or let me come clean it

i can't stand that thing lookin like that
I've got lots of dirty engine parts you can clean for me anytime you want. I'd even drop them off at your door for your convenience.
Old 02-10-04, 03:03 AM
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Yeah, want to clean some engine parts, man I got more than I know what to do with and you're welcome to come clean any time.
Old 02-10-04, 03:13 AM
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Originally posted by nimrodTT
I've got lots of dirty engine parts you can clean for me anytime you want. I'd even drop them off at your door for your convenience.
that sounds coo i'd like to fondle some rotary parts
Old 02-10-04, 02:31 PM
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I was thinking about rebuilding mine but a rebuild kit is like $800 bucks did you get that or did you just get gasket set for like $120, and do you have to replace all the springs,apex and corner seals or can they be used again?
Old 02-10-04, 04:24 PM
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if the apex seals are within spec, there's no harm in re-using them.

You need to do soft seals/gaskets, and should do springs. That'll run you closer to $200 than $800.
Old 02-10-04, 07:33 PM
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Always waiting for parts!

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Was that the turbo'ed engine you just took apart or a donor?
Old 02-10-04, 09:00 PM
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Originally posted by seanrot
Was that the turbo'ed engine you just took apart or a donor?
This was a mazda factory rebuild with 20k on it. Mazda rebuilds aren't very good. They send them out to other shops and have them rebuild the engine, and they tell the rebuilders to re-use everything they possibly can. I'll be getting a good set of housings, rotaryshack apex seals and springs, and a gasket kit. The engine will also be getting street ported and dowel pinned. I believe this engine is an '81, so I'll be using the rotors and flywheel out of the engine in my car right now since the '85 rotors are lighter.

I'll probably end up building another engine with all the parts that are left over. Then I'll just have to find a new toy to put it in or save it just incase something happens to the 1st one.
Old 02-11-04, 01:46 PM
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Well, it looks like that engine wasn't in bad condition at all, im glad its working out for you man. Good luck with the porting
Old 02-11-04, 09:11 PM
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Aye, pics aren't showing up for me.
Old 02-11-04, 09:27 PM
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Nevermind me, they worked now. And I guess I can just say, I've seen nastier. heh
Old 02-12-04, 12:24 AM
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Thumbs up

Keep us posted. So what's up with the rust?
Old 02-12-04, 09:05 AM
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What's best to clean the parts with? For the OMP I used Mineral Spirits because Simple Green etches aluminum. It worked pretty well, actually. Is there anything you guys recommend for part cleaning that's better than that? Mineral Spirits is dirt cheap, I'd just get a rubbermaid container and immerse parts, let them set and check clearances.

And if anyone has a 12a or random 12a parts they want cleaned... I'd clean 'em, but I'd keep em hehe...

Jon
Old 02-12-04, 12:30 PM
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Originally posted by RX187
Keep us posted. So what's up with the rust?
It's not rust, don't know why it showed up like that. It's just a bit of carbon build up, comes right off.
Old 02-12-04, 06:59 PM
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Originally posted by vipernicus42
What's best to clean the parts with?
I use paint thinner... At work (I work on radio communication devices and radar parts.) we use an ultrasonic cleaner like the jewelry shops have, but it's filled with Trichlorethelene... We get it by the 5 gallon bucket...

I'd like to see how well that stuff does in an automotive application... It destroys soldering fluxes and any oils from the aluminium housing milling machine...
Old 02-12-04, 07:44 PM
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Originally posted by coldy13
This was a mazda factory rebuild with 20k on it. Mazda rebuilds aren't very good. They send them out to other shops and have them rebuild the engine, and they tell the rebuilders to re-use everything they possibly can. I'll be getting a good set of housings, rotaryshack apex seals and springs, and a gasket kit. The engine will also be getting street ported and dowel pinned. I believe this engine is an '81, so I'll be using the rotors and flywheel out of the engine in my car right now since the '85 rotors are lighter.

I'll probably end up building another engine with all the parts that are left over. Then I'll just have to find a new toy to put it in or save it just incase something happens to the 1st one.
I'm wondering where did you here this? I thought mazda rebuilt the motors themselves.
Old 02-12-04, 07:48 PM
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Man be careful, tric is a known carcinogen. Wish Id known that back in teh 80's when I used to washup my tools and hands in it everyday, along with spraying it on leaky areas of airplanes with my custom nifty rigged fire extinguisher. Ill probably grow an extra arm outta my forehead someday. Well not much of a reason for me to quit smoking now is there? Hijack over.

Man that looks really bad, Ill give you $50 for it.
Old 02-12-04, 08:04 PM
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When I tear down the '80 engine for its transformation into Evilness, I plan on soaking the rotors in Berryman's carb dip. We used that at Saturn for cleaning pistons when doing re-ring jobs. Imagine how incredibly crusty carboned up pistons can get in an oil-guzzling engine.... now imagine putting the pistons in a gallon bucket of solution at night, coming back to work the next day, and pulling out PERFECTLY 100% CLEAN pistons. No scrubbing required, just a hose off in the regular parts washer because the Berryman's stuff REEEEEEKs.

One word of caution, don't put any rubber/plastic parts in there if you plan on reusing them. Metal ONLY. It will swell up rubber incredibly hugeful. Like it'll turn a valve stem seal into something you could wear as a bracelet. So, ah, if you're reusing the oil control O-rings, take 'em out of the rotor before dunking.

BTW - Watchoo doin' with those junk housings? I'm alsways looking for more housings for 'sperimentin'. I have a few ideas up the ol' sleeve


Last edited by peejay; 02-12-04 at 08:06 PM.
Old 02-12-04, 08:55 PM
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Yeah, shutup kid.

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I'm not sure yet. But I'll probably build a crazy n/a motor out of all the parts I have left
Old 02-12-04, 09:10 PM
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I found a super cheap '82 shell, if you want something to put it in.

What am I saying, '82 is closer to emissions exempt than '85 anyday!

Wait, again what am i saying. Way too many irons in the fire... Ah well, when the time is right, something else will turn up.

- Pete (hopefully it'll be spelled "RX-4")
Old 02-12-04, 09:13 PM
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Originally posted by peejay
What am I saying, '82 is closer to emissions exempt than '85 anyday!
Columbus doesn't have emissions check anyway How cheap is super cheap? If it's cheap enough then I really might want to buy it. I'm in need of a daily driver so my parents can sell the extra car that I've been driving before it falls apart even more.

If I end up having any housings left then I'll let you know.

Also, are you gonna be at the meet on the 21st?


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