I try to start the car today, but it wont crank at all. Tried jumping the white/red and black/yellow cable behind the ignition switch, and it still doesn't crank, so the ignition switch is fine. Got a new starter and put it in, and still no sound. Try putting the + cable on the right side stud on the starter and it spins, so the starter should be good. Please help...

 

First off, how do you know the ignition switch is good? Just because you completed a connection doesn't rule it out.

Also, check fuses, cables, and even any relays related to the ignition system.

 

The black/yellow cable connects to the starter, and red/white is to the battery. If I connect them and it cranks which it should, since the starter is getting power straight from the battery, then it would be the problem with the switch. Since it didn't, the switch is fine. I didn't completed a connection, I removed it and jumped it.

All the fuses and relays are good. I will check on the battery cable.

 

And the battery? This is the season... as it get cooler batteries don't swell up and can change characteristics (go dead etc). Check water level of battery if not maint free.

 

The battery was good for sure but it's worth a try. It does has more than 12V...

The starter doesn't even click at all, like absolutely silence.

 

Could it battery cables need to be replaced? Or some type of connection problems that occurred outta nowhere?

 

Your battery cables could be shot, or your connections corroded. if you want to rule out your battery cables, take your jumper cables of 4AWG from the positive and negative battery terminals and go right to the (+)starter and (-)engine. You are eliminating your battery cables this way, especially if they have a lot of resistance.

Also your battery can read a solid 12V, but once you apply a load it will drop drastically. More than likely your not checking at that point and still think you've got a good battery since it read a good "12V" when in reality no. You should read 12.8 up to 13V, but really this is irrelevant since you need to apply a load to verify.

 

Replace the cables. More than likely they are either bad or corroded at the poles. Best to just replace them entirely.

 

Yeah, that's the plan. Let's hope it works out tomorrow... will keep you guys posted! Thanks!

 

Is there a clutch sensor for the car? Like on the modern cars....

 

Your problem could very well be a blown fusible link. Check the middle link on the driver's side strut tower...

 

We are 4 years early for a clutch safety switch.

On a good day my Starter Motor can do the 1/4 mile in 30 seconds

 

Thanks for the inputs, I will check on all those later today

 

My brother burned a Peugeot 504 to the ground by trying to move it with the starter. Relay welded itself open, and the starter leads turned themselves into a giant toaster coil, igniting the fuel and oil in the engine compartment. Nothing was left.

 

Aye I almost hit my other car starting rusty in gear the other day.

 

Pull the lead from the ignition switch off the starter solenoid and check for voltage with a voltmeter between that wire and ground when you turn the key to start.

 

All good suggestions, but I would still recommend that the first thing you do is look at that fusible link I mentioned earlier.

If that fusible link checks out as okay, then I think Cascadia is next in line as far as most likely prospect for a way to narrow the issue down. After that, its going to be a turkey shoot where you end up replacing parts that weren't exactly bad but were probably in need of changing anyway.

 

Just checked the fusible link, it is fine. Also tried using the jumper cable trick and still wont crank, so it is not the battery cable.

Is the starter solenoid where the small wire on the top of the starter? What if the voltage is low?

 

On mine (1982) it is a small black wire with a yellow tracer and has a plastic housed female connector that plugs into a male spade connector on the solenoid. If you unplug that from the solenoid and check with a voltmeter between the female connector and ground with the key turned to the start (cranking) position, you should get battery voltage. From the start switch, that wiring just goes through the fusible link and some connectors . . . nothing that would drop any voltage.