Stainless oil cooler line prices
Stainless oil cooler line prices
While the oil cooler is out getting the 4 cracks in the bungs welded I was thinking of getting the stainless oil cooler lines trying to find the best price for gsl-se set and its looking like mazes trix at 173 is the best price compared to racing beat with all the fittings for 207 anyone know of other venders?
yes, instead of steel braided, go to your local truck shop and ask for high pressure lines using stock fittings. its much cheaper and no need to buy adaptors @ $10 a pop. see this link http://www.hose-man.com/
When I did my oil cooler lines in ~2007-2008ish, I bought all of the components myself with a hefty discount, and it still ran me close to $200.
If Mazdatrix wants only $173, and that's for everything including the four straight thread to AN adapters, go for it!
Granted, I did get an excess of hose, which helped immensely when I "tension tested" the short hose when pulling an engine and needed to re-make the line. Which is the NICE thing about AN stuff, once you're set up for it with fittings, making/repairing hoses is fairly inexpensive and you can do it yourself. But the initial cost... oy! It makes you realize how much people can spend when you see people with AN vacuum and coolant hoses. (If you thought -10 was expensive, try pricing -16 or larger!) $5-20 a fitting, a couple bucks a foot for hose, adds up really fast.
If Mazdatrix wants only $173, and that's for everything including the four straight thread to AN adapters, go for it!
Granted, I did get an excess of hose, which helped immensely when I "tension tested" the short hose when pulling an engine and needed to re-make the line. Which is the NICE thing about AN stuff, once you're set up for it with fittings, making/repairing hoses is fairly inexpensive and you can do it yourself. But the initial cost... oy! It makes you realize how much people can spend when you see people with AN vacuum and coolant hoses. (If you thought -10 was expensive, try pricing -16 or larger!) $5-20 a fitting, a couple bucks a foot for hose, adds up really fast.
Yep,Ive run Dayco "B" hose for years and years.The smooth and flexible rubber stuff made it much easier to plumb my custom dual cooler setup.
Its standard hydro/bearing shop stuff you can buy in bulk.Its cheap and rated far above the pressure and temps that engine oil sees. I wouldnt trust my engine to that hose if I wasnt confident. SS is nice,but not needed,doesnt bend well and can be destructive if it rubs.
Its standard hydro/bearing shop stuff you can buy in bulk.Its cheap and rated far above the pressure and temps that engine oil sees. I wouldnt trust my engine to that hose if I wasnt confident. SS is nice,but not needed,doesnt bend well and can be destructive if it rubs.
yes, instead of steel braided, go to your local truck shop and ask for high pressure lines using stock fittings. its much cheaper and no need to buy adaptors @ $10 a pop. see this link http://www.hose-man.com/
I am switching to a 13b with a FC oil cooler and need all new lines and fittings, so could they make it all for me if I tell them the length and fitting size?
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Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 8,376
Likes: 30
From: Chino Hills, CA
I've still got, and will again be reusing, my pre-AN, stock-fitting-design stainless lines from Racing Beat, which I bought in 2001. Carefully inspected them when pulling the motor this month, and they are still flawless & have never leaked a drop.
They are not as fancy looking as the pretty red and blue AN fitting ones... but they are of excellent quality.
They are not as fancy looking as the pretty red and blue AN fitting ones... but they are of excellent quality.
I've still got, and will again be reusing, my pre-AN, stock-fitting-design stainless lines from Racing Beat, which I bought in 2001. Carefully inspected them when pulling the motor this month, and they are still flawless & have never leaked a drop.
They are not as fancy looking as the pretty red and blue AN fitting ones... but they are of excellent quality.

They are not as fancy looking as the pretty red and blue AN fitting ones... but they are of excellent quality.

I bought a used set of those a while back, I thought they were mazdaspeed though, and sold them. I wish I hadn't.
I installed RB SS lines on my SA. This was after having a crack welded, and AN fittings welded to the cooler, so I only had to buy adapters for the front cover and rear iron. Also, these adapters are cheaper through Summit Racing. After I got the hoses installed, which was a major PITA since they can't be bent, they leaked for a while. I was constantly trying to adjust the tightness without over tightening them. I think I have finally solved the issue, and honestly, I am afraid to remove them. Fully tightening the front cover fitting, and the AN adapter for it, wasn't a pleasant experience.
If I were to do it again, I would go one of two routes. One, try to find lines like DivinDriver posted, or more than likely, have rubber lines made for substantially less $$. They're more than adequate, much cheaper, and easier to install. It seems like an obvious choice to me.
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 8,376
Likes: 30
From: Chino Hills, CA
Well stepped up and ordered the mazdatrix set got the oil cooler to the welder he found 4 cracks in the upper bung and 3 cracks in the lower welds look great and thought while it was out.
A few years ago, I bought the Mazda Trix SS set for my '79 (has an Rx-4 cooler with one more row than the stock '79. Cooler mounts had to be modified, as I recall.)
I'm planning a '91 13B 6-port installation using the '79 front cover.
Question:
Will the same lines work for the 13B or will I have to get new ones?
I'm planning a '91 13B 6-port installation using the '79 front cover.
Question:
Will the same lines work for the 13B or will I have to get new ones?
goto summitracing and buy some SS lines, for like 40 bucks and get 15 ft, enough to do 3 cars, and buy the fitting and get them pressed at a hydraulic shop for a couple bucks. the end.
You can cut off the ferrells on the stock lines, discard the old hose and retain the fittings. Once you verify hose length you can get the lines replaced with whatever material you like, so long the shop you choose has it. If you are not 100% sure on length, keep in mind you can put the hose on the fitting barbs to verify fit. Put uncrimped ferrells on first. Good thing about using an industrial or truck hose shop, they usually pressure test the lines. 200 psig should be a safe minimum test pressure. Good to use at least a 2X safety factor.
+1
You can cut off the ferrells on the stock lines, discard the old hose and retain the fittings. Once you verify hose length you can get the lines replaced with whatever material you like, so long the shop you choose has it. If you are not 100% sure on length, keep in mind you can put the hose on the fitting barbs to verify fit. Put uncrimped ferrells on first. Good thing about using an industrial or truck hose shop, they usually pressure test the lines. 200 psig should be a safe minimum test pressure. Good to use at least a 2X safety factor.
You can cut off the ferrells on the stock lines, discard the old hose and retain the fittings. Once you verify hose length you can get the lines replaced with whatever material you like, so long the shop you choose has it. If you are not 100% sure on length, keep in mind you can put the hose on the fitting barbs to verify fit. Put uncrimped ferrells on first. Good thing about using an industrial or truck hose shop, they usually pressure test the lines. 200 psig should be a safe minimum test pressure. Good to use at least a 2X safety factor.
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