1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

Spark plugs

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Old 04-08-02, 12:00 AM
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Spark plugs

Anyone know where i can get the ND (nipondenso) spark plugs for a 13B? I can't find them anywhere were i live, just the ngk plugs and those seem to suck for startups. I replace the burq9's? i believe with a old set of nd plugs and it fires every time with a half turn of the key, with the other plugs, hard starts and i'm tired of it. If someone know's, that would be a big help for me, thanks...

btw, they are the four prong spark plugs...
Old 04-08-02, 01:26 AM
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I did'nt know NP made a for prong spark plug???? I know they sell the NP at Auto Zone, but you might as well get champions for your car, they seem to go bad really quickly, I tried some before I knew anything about plugs and they lasted about 4 months, maybe you have bad coils or ignighters?
Old 04-08-02, 02:06 AM
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I changed out the stock diamond coils and replaced them with some cheap niehoff coils thinking that was the problem. i was getting a situation where the motor seemed to run on one rotor if i let it sit for like five minutes running. Well that didn't help, so i figured i would try the ngk plugs but that didn't help either. If anything it made my car start harder so i put the old plugs back in and it would fire right up. it still has that stumble, but it's only when it's sat for a few day and then it's only the first ten seconds or so then it runs fine. Has anyone else had this problem? I'm getting frustrated at having to sit there and crank on it. I've had a starter go out on me because of using the ngkbur9eq's not firing up my engine and cranking on it. Any suggestions?

On a side note, when the engine is only running on one rotor, i can kinda stand on it, and it will all of the sudden kick in and run fine.
Old 04-08-02, 09:57 AM
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I think you have a problem other than the plugs. I have an 85 GSL-SE, diagnosed with bad compression (which was bullshit), I put new battery cables (made them myself, better than stock) old NGK plugs, filled the engine with ATF.
I barely even get the key to the start position and the car fires up!
How old are your battery cables? How about plug wires? Distributor cap?
hanman
Old 04-08-02, 10:07 AM
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the battery needs to be at least 600 cold cranking amps
Old 04-08-02, 10:08 AM
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And how are your ignighters?
Old 04-08-02, 10:38 AM
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Try http://www.rockauto.com I got my ND plugs there for my 12a .I see they also have the ones for yours too.
Mike
Old 04-09-02, 01:09 AM
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i have fairly new spark plug wires and have done the ignitor test that is explained in the haynes manual. I also have a 1000 cold cranking amp battery. i haven't replaced the battery cables because i have the battery relocation kit installed so the battery sits in the hatch now. I did clean up the cable ends and the engine ground. The distributor cap hasn't been replaced but it still looked in good shape. I guess i will buy one and see if that does the trick. Can the cap cause that much chaos in starting my car?
Old 04-09-02, 11:08 AM
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ngk
Old 04-10-02, 05:03 AM
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*bump*
Old 04-10-02, 03:12 PM
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You can try the NGK 2nd Gen (BURxEQ-14) or Turbo (BURxEQP-14) plugs. Both are a BIG improvment over the stock BRxEQ-14's...
Old 04-10-02, 10:20 PM
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I'll give that a try.
Old 04-17-02, 12:46 AM
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Originally posted by Rotor13B
it still has that stumble, but it's only when it's sat for a few day and then it's only the first ten seconds or so then it runs fine.
On a side note, when the engine is only running on one rotor, i can kinda stand on it, and it will all of the sudden kick in and run fine.
Rotor13B, I'm a little late and you may have already found the problem, but:

That sounds like a leaky injector to me. Over the few days it has not run, the leaky injector drips fuel into the chamber, so starting is more difficult.

When you start it, it is too rich at idle from the fuel that has already leaked into the chamber, causing the one rotor to misfire. When you get on the throttle, the demand for more fuel uses up the excess quickly, dries the plugs, and you're fine until it sits for a while again.
Is it worse in cold weather? When the injectors gum up, they got worse as it got colder.

If you have not cleaned your injectors in the last few years, that's where I'd start. With the 13B any of the recommended spark plugs should allow you to start easily, unless there is a fairly major secondary problem. I wouldn't think brand of plugs alone would be the cause.
If it is a dirty injector, it won't be too long until it floods as soon as you turn the key and no amount of cranking will start it. I cleaned mine many years ago, and it has not failed to start since. I didn't send them out, I cleaned them myself. If you think that might be the problem, let us know; It'll take you 15 minutes (after you've removed the injectors, of course )

-John.
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