I posted a couple of weeks ago that my car was blowing smoke after decelerating using compression braking. At the time I was positive that the smoke was fuel, but I had a freind follow me and it turned out that it was oil after all...

So, I need new oil seals right? Well, maybe not.

As it turns out, in the front of the Haynes manual, listed under capacities, it states that an oil change w/filter takes 5.5 quarts of oil. I never questioned this, so when I last changed my oil that's what I added. Well, reading in the back of the manual in the supplement it states that the later models (83-85 I think) only take 4.9 quarts.

Since this whole issue started shortly after I changed my oil last, I ran out and checked the level to see where it was at. The oil is so clean that its really hard to tell what the level is, but I figured that I'd play it safe anyways and drain some off. After draining off over a quart, I was just under the full mark.

Anyways, today on the way home I tried like hell to get it to smoke again and guess what? Couldn't do it!

I just hope that I didn't hurt my poor wankel too bad while it was overfilled. I thought this info might help out some other poor schmuck out there who didn't read the back section of the manual and maybe thinks his engine is blown...

 

when mine starts to smoke i give it the patch.

 

my 12a has 175,xxx miles or so and started lightly smoking on deceleration at about 170K.
now i can leave a 3-lane smokescreen if i compression brake at 6-7k rpm. it is great for fixing tailgaters, and doesnt smoke at all around town driving.


isaac

 

Brought it in to work tonight (45 miles of country roads) and still no sign of smoke... Yippee!!

 

congrats.

 

now that's awesome

 

i have 5 simple words for you...

[B]THE ENGINE IS NOT A BRAKE!!!

 

I would have to agree with that heh, decelerating with the engine is wearing it out... I'd rather wear the brake pads - they are cheaper and easier to replace than the engine... plus the brake pads apply force at all 4 wheels for better control.

 

Well now, I'd have to say this... The purpose of downshifting is not to aid braking, but rather to get into the proper gear and rpm range for the upcoming corner (or whatever).

It's true that in the old days the engine was used for braking, but that was mainly due to the weak brakes that they had, which were prone to fading etc.

Perhaps I shouldn't have used the term "compression braking", but having seen it before on the forum I thought it would explain the situation more easily to more people.

Although I do not race (yet), when I was learning to drive I was instructed by my boss at the time who is a long time racer. He runs Corvettes in Daytona and Sebring through the winter and runs a little bike shop in Northern Michigan through the Summertime (which is where I worked). Some of the old timers around Detroit may remember him as a longtime fastest lap holder at Waterford Hills. I owe a lot to Opie and he "learned me right" right from the start.

Like I said, I don't race yet, but consider my twenty years experience with apexing corners, double clutching, heel and toe downshifting to be nothing but a combination of practice and just plain "doing it right".

So yeah, your engine is not a brake and it's cheaper to replace your brake pads than it is your engine/gearbox. But on the other hand, to quote a famous non-racer, "I am what I am, yuk yuk yuk".......