Im working on a DCOE45 9 as a test carb and I have a couple of requests. Float level and drop settings? And pics of the throttle linkage, specifically the brackets for the choke and throttle cable. Thanks

 

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j/k. I have to dig it and take pics.

 

hmmm, when i had my sidedraft i pretty much had the float as high as i could get it cause anything lower would make me run out of fuel too soon. it's not AS finicky as a nikki. but i'm sure someone on here could give you exact mm number of factory spec.

 

CARL, I'll check my weber book tonite for the factory non-rotary specific specs. Best I can do. Brad

 

Dont make me edit your post Mel!

Thanks guys. I got a couple of great weber books but they dont list a level for a rotaty. And the specs are all over the map depending on the engine. This thing has almost no float shutoff, it cant be right.

 

Carl, ask on the SCCA prod board about the float level. I bet somebody can answer there. Mine was already set when I bought it from a person off of that board.

Regarding the linkage, check out the attached pic. I have a 1/4" thick aluminum plate that bolts up by the air horn that the cable sleeve mounts to. I cut off the round thingy (technical term) on the end of the stock cable itself, and attached a cable pull I got at Jegs. This attached to the lever on the throttle shaft.

The attached picture looks like it doesn't pull straight on the lever, but I have since fixed that by proper spacers where the pull attaches to the lever.

Now the throttle return spring setup I have is admittedly a little cheesy , but it does pull straight back on the lever and does not bind at all. I need to think of a more elegant setup.

Seems to work great. I did some research and there is a specific kit sold for these but it is expensive and looks complex.

One more thing: I don't have the choke connected. Makes it a bit cold blooded but I only drive it when it is nice out anyhow!

 

Ah. My dellorto book had one setting for all dhla, all engines and it was same that RB used. I raised it 1mm to help with cornering. sorry dude.

 

search you noob I had a thread with my linkage pics. J/k here's the link
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...light=groupies

 

I wil take pix of my extra dellorto and mikuni so you can get more ideas. Btw, IIRC, I replaced the delllorto's shaft lever.

 

Thanks for the input, I think Ill engineer something simpler than what Ive seen so far if I can. The 45 has a return spring built into it. Why are you guys adding more external springs? Just redundancy? Track rules?

 

well for my weber 45 dcoe I added a external spring because the pedal is SOOOOO touchy, I don't know where this internal spring you are talking about is, but it is rediculous how touchy it is without a big spring on my car. I put in a L bracket off the firewall, and hooked up a spring from the bracket to the throttle linkage to stiffen the pedal up a bit. With a really touchy pedal like that you can't go down the highway at the same speed, you are always accelerating or slowing down, its really annoying.

These carbs are awesome monsters, I have just had lots of troubles struggling with getting mine to run well. But im sure a jetting genious like yourself will have better luck!

 

I am running a 40MM sidedraft getting ready to upsize to a 48. I followed the info provided by gruntled.com on the jetting and the other settings and am using the suggested float settings in the book by Hammill with the float settings as 15mm (needle seated and 25mm drop. You can adjust these numbers by tweaking the metal tab located at the seat. RB modified the pump gasket on the 48mm by adding a 3/16" gasket. I have found that the jetting and emulsion tubes are the key to getting the max out of the carb. (Gruntled has the settings for both the 12A and the 13B. Good Luck..

 

Dan, thanks. The internal spring is where the AP lever ataches to the throttle shaft. Its not a big spring. Well this looks to be a new learning curve. Many variables to play with.

MX, thx, Ill try that, but thats way outta line with what my stuff shows. 5-7mm and 13-14mm on the floats depending on the engine. Oh and these are old style brass round floats, not the spanish style plastic ones. I shoulda said that earlier.

 

carl... e-mail me.. i some pics that might be helpfull to ya.. merry x-mas

 

My feeling was that the return spring built into the 45 was not very robust and seemed to be designed more for return of the throttle and internals in the carb vs. the return of the cable.

Plus, redundancy on the throttle return is not a bad thing...

 

Thanks Robert Ill drop you a line.

True, a backup spring is definately a good thing, and looking further at it its a small spring. Not having run this I didnt know how stiff it was gonna be.

 

Even with IDA, I have to use add a return spring from a stock nikki.