1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

Side moulding.

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Old Dec 6, 2008 | 03:07 PM
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Side moulding.

The rear driver side moulding on my RX7 fell off as I was driving it home after I bought it. From what I've seen this is fairly common because of gas falling on it. I bought another one on ebay, but its slightly kinked. I left it under my 50lb toolbox for like 2 weeks to straighten it out, and it helped a little. When I went to mount it, I bought 3m two sided tape, but it is alot thicker than the factory tape, so it sticks out a bit, and gradually started coming off again, so I just took it off. Any better ideas to secure it on the body?
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Old Dec 6, 2008 | 05:35 PM
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They sell a thinner double sided sticky tape that I used for my side molding when I replaced my passenger front fender on my FB and had to put the molding back on it. The most important thing is to make sure that the surface the tape is going onto is extremely clean. No dirt or anything on it whatsoever. It should stick just fine.
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Old Dec 6, 2008 | 06:30 PM
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Heat will help straighten it out, whether it's the sun or a heat gun. It may work best if it's over bent so when it relaxes it returns to a flat position.
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Old Dec 6, 2008 | 07:36 PM
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Originally Posted by trochoid
Heat will help straighten it out, whether it's the sun or a heat gun. It may work best if it's over bent so when it relaxes it returns to a flat position.
Alright that sounds good. Maybe i'll throw it in the oven at like 150* with something on top of it.

I cleaned both surfaces with soap and water, but the gap was like 2mm because of the thickness of the tape, so I think that's why it started separating. I'm gonna have to find that thinner stuff.
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Old Dec 6, 2008 | 08:49 PM
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I used the thicker tape and ran a thin bead of silicone along the top of the tape, behind the moulding. Seemed to work well.

The other choice is to just be real careful with the gas, heh.
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Old Dec 6, 2008 | 09:05 PM
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Originally Posted by DivinDriver
I used the thicker tape and ran a thin bead of silicone along the top of the tape, behind the moulding. Seemed to work well.

The other choice is to just be real careful with the gas, heh.
No, I enjoy being quite liberal with my gas fill-ups. I would post a metaphoric video...but somehow I think I would be banned.
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Old Dec 6, 2008 | 09:56 PM
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Originally Posted by trochoid
Heat will help straighten it out, whether it's the sun or a heat gun. It may work best if it's over bent so when it relaxes it returns to a flat position.
Anyother trick is to boil it in water making sure it does not sit on the bottem. A double boiler would work best. I'm a disc golfer from way back and this method works good pn bent disc.
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Old Dec 6, 2008 | 10:37 PM
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Originally Posted by KansasCityREPU
Anyother trick is to boil it in water making sure it does not sit on the bottem. A double boiler would work best. I'm a disc golfer from way back and this method works good pn bent disc.
That's a new one.

To OP:

I stuck my molding under a toolbox as you did and had it pop back off after a few weeks. I windex'd the body (damaged the shine of the finish on the paint a little, but it's getting molding over top of it I figured.) Trick might have been that or just pressing on the tape more firmly the second time around.

The tape they use is VBH, I've never seen it in auto stores in less than 3mm thickness, but I know 3M makes that stuff in all varieties.
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Old Dec 7, 2008 | 10:06 AM
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Thanks for the tips, I got all kinds of things to try now
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Old Dec 8, 2008 | 05:11 AM
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i have used 3M's automotive double sided tape. i get it at napa. make sure both surfaces are CLEAN. i thne apply the tape to the moulding and then heat the application area with my heat gun and after removing the tape's cover, i get the moulding positioned. once in position, i press the moulding against the body, and thoroughly heat it with the heat gun and keep applying pressure to the moulding. this helps for solid adhesion. been doing this for years with no problems.
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