I started up the S4 motor in my GSL-SE today.

for anyone unfamiliar, i'm running the stock ECU, injectors, and ignition on the S4 engine and intake. the aux port sleeves are removed and the emissions gear is stripped.

i went through and reseated the fusible links and main relay connections and got 12v at coils, so i decided to crank it over and it started up after about 3 seconds of cranking. this pleases me greatly.

the ACT cluch feels real nice too.

there's a rapid fuel leak between the fuel rail and the rear injector -- i think the o-ring just isn't seated correctly.

also, the temp gauge and oil pressure gauge still don't work. the oil pressure gauge reads 0 and the temp gauge is pegged on H. i'm thinking it might be easier for me to install a couple autometer gauges for more accurate readings anyway.

excited.

 

Same thing here except my piece of trash wont start. I got it to fake start by dumping fuel in the intake, but then I cant get the injectors or my idiot lights to work right. My injectors dont squirt fuel, just make noise with the fuel pump.

 

are all your fuses intact? my engine fuse was blowing and the coils weren't getting juice until i went through and removed and reseated all the connections related to the fuel injection and ignition. after i did that, it started right up. might be worth a try...

 

jeez...lots of ppl are doin this swap right now...im doin a s4 13bt swap in my gsl-se right now...pending parts...im gonna use all the stock parts and just front mount the stock intercooler...i might buy an aftermarket bov too just cuz i can

 

also may i ask...are either of you turbo? if so...what are you using for flywheel and clutch setup? how bout what are you running in general?

 

no i'm NA. my swap was brought about by the inevitable demise of the stock 6-port. the GSL-SE engines are kind of a rare commodity, and people are upgrading the 6pi FCs to turbo all the time, so it was only a matter of time before i found my engine.. only paid 325 for it with the intake, injectors and engine harness (which i didn't use)...

i'm running the FC engine and intake with the stock FB style electronics. i tapped and bolted the secondary injector holes and aux port linkage holes in the intake manifolds. i also plugged up all the emissions and cold start garbage and am running a total of 3 vaccum lines

the remainder of the project will be to install blockoffs for the BAC and OMP and just run premix with the idle set at about 1500.

http://cptgloval.shackspace.com/cars/DSC01140.JPG

anyhoo... the fuel leak... i took off the UIM and started up the fuel pump, and i can see fuel squirt out around the rear injector. probably just a poorly seated o-ring, i assume. what do y'all think?

 

Lol, that's pretty cool. Although, the duct tape does match the other aluminum pieces.

 

Is your return line working? I'd think it is, but mine wasn't at first. The fuel outlet nipple near the FPR was stuck so I applied vacuum to the FPR and it then allowed the return line to work. I was getting a leak from the primary rail to the secondary rail right at the nipple because the pressure had no where to go and the nipple had a few scratches on it. I double clamped it to be on the safe side and there are no more leaks. I did all this before attempting to fire it up for the first time so I assume the vacuum of your running engine would have affected your FPR already. Yeah, it's probably an o-ring.

 

what's the best way to apply vaccum to a line for diagnostics? i'll check the fpr to make sure, but i suspect it to be fine.

i'll just pick up a new o-ring kit this week just to be sure... they're cheap.

 

btw - if anyone is curious, i'm about $1400 into this car total.

$800 - running (not for long) car
$325 - engine, injectors, wiring, act hd clutch, etc
$275 - various other swap goodies including newer oil cooler, stainless lines, front cover, vaccum caps, rtv, etc.

as far as swaps go, i consider this to be very economical.

 

sounds pretty cheap