Background Info;

Trailing plug wire from distributor to coil pack has been arching for the last week but didn't affect drivability to the point of being a distraction, just ticking and clearly a loss in power.

Issue;

I took a left hand turn and as I was accelerating (50km/h), the car sounded like it was on one rotor/ misfiring/ all-around wrong. So, I pulled over and figured it was a bad coil, or bad wires. So, I replaced the wires with a brand new set of NGKs, and a working coil from another car and am still having issues. The misfiring is noticeable but it is noticeably smoother since the new wires. If you guys have any suggestions, I really need help here and it's urgent (ie. to get the my finals on Tuesday). Thanks in advance.

, Simon

 

You need to hook up a timing light to see where its firing. Something inside the distributor could be messing it up.

 

Aah, that's what was my next guess. Well, time to learn how to set timing.

 

Remove your distributor cap and check the contact pins and the rotor inside. They get covered with a white crusty substance. These can be cleaned, but it sounds like you may need a new cap and rotor. Careful when you swap the wires from the old cap to the new one. Make sure the wires are in the right terminals when you are finished. L1-front bottom plug, L2-rear bottom plug, T1-top front plug, T2-rear top plug, T-front coil and L-rear coil.

 

Soo, replaced the coil pack again and it's no good. I warmed the car up as the new coil pack made the idle slightly better with less vibration but then once it was warm and I revved to 4,000 there was HUGE knocking and then the car wouldn't idle. I'm now expecting the worst.

 

.... Consistent bad bearing knock or detonation knock.

 

I'm 99.9% convinced I spun a bearing. A local builder is coming over tomorrow to confirm. It just makes no sense. Factory engine, full of fresh oil, new filter, no oil pressure issues at all. It just came out of nowhere. I'm kind of in denial I think.

 

Have you checed the dizzy cap and rotor yet? That's my #1 guess, once the contacts go bad the spark will still try to find a way to get through, so it arcs all over the place and causes missing like you describe.

 

I did check them and they looked fine but I'll grab some new ones tomorrow and see if there's any difference

 

Shutter valve stuck closed?

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Alright, so we checked compression today. ZERO on the rear rotor. It's a sad day, I loved that car. Now I'm on the quest to find another 12A.

 

Try atf or mmo?

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