I adjusted the rear brake shoes like I read on here, the pedal feels much better, and the brakes are more responsive. I'm not sure if the booster is working or not, I'm thinking maybe not....not sure how to tell... but the weird thing was I was going to bleed/change the brake fluid while I was back there, just the one bleeder on the right side, loosened it and even used my new vacuum bleeder tool, but nothing would come out, even tried taking the bleeder screw out and pumping the brake, still nothing...not sure what is going on. I don't really want to tear them apart because they work now and the shoes looked relatively new, so "if it 'aint broke don't fix it" applies, but I will need to bleed it eventually. what am I missing?

 

Feel you pain. Same prob with my SA in bleeding brakes (since rear is where one is supposed to start).
Gave up and took it to a shop with the correct tools. Then finally dumped it (tho it actually was then working fine) for an FB
LSD/disc set up...
That unhelpful news hopefully washed away here with many talented folk with some useable ideas for you ;P


Stu A
80GS
AZ

 

You definitely should be getting fluid out of the bleeder both with your vacuum and by pumping the pedal. Especially with the bleeder removed. Sounds like a blockage. Can you jack up the rear of the car and have someone press on the brakes while you try and turn the rear wheels? Just to make sure both rears are actually engaging. If the right rear won't lock up, I'd crack the line above the bleeder loose and look for seepage while someone presses the pedal. If you have fluid there, you should have pressure to actuate that side and the problem could just be in that right rear wheel cylinder.

If neither rear wheel locks up, the problem is probably further up stream. To check the brake booster, disconnect the vacuum line going to it and press the brakes. You should be able to tell a noticeable difference.

 

If adjusting the brake shoes made a difference to pedal feel, your problem is likely between the left wheel cylinder and the right. Easiest thing to start with is visually checking for any crush damage to the hard brake line that runs along the rear axle to the right wheel cylinder. After that, follow Banzai's advice above for diagnosing the issue.

 

It could also be a buggered up brake cylinder thats clogged but still works. I usually replace wheel cylinders when I do a full rear brake job. Always pays off.

 

so I finally got around to rebuilding the right rear brake cylinder and it turns out there is a check ball under the bleeder screw that was stuck with corrosion/varnish. cleaned it up, flows good now. firm pedal

 

Always great to see a member post a solution they found to a problem from an old post.
:-)