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New drier? I'd wait until the whole system is proven leak free and then change it. That way you only have the receiver drier connections to worry about getting right.
That's one of the two I've been eyeballing. 2.5 cfm vs 3 cfm. At first I thought the only difference would be speed but upon second look one pulls down to 75 micron while the other 22.5 micron. I don't have a micrometer so I can't do a proper AC job so maybe the difference without the micrometer doesn't matter. Who knows? I know I over think things sometimes. @jackhild59 didn't mention a micrometer in his documentation nor has anyone else that I've seen. Now to find the elusive 25% off coupon and hopefully find two. One for the manifold and one for the pump.
I don't know a lot about HVAC (and I'm sure there are opinions every which way) but the impression I got was that you couldn't practically pull the all of the moisture out of a system no matter how deep and that's why they have a receiver drier (or an accumulator) with silica gel moisture absorber. Anyway, having the pump would at least allow you to service it conveniently, repeatedly.
I know the one I rented from o'reilly's was a 1.8cfm and it couldn't pull any lower than 28ish in/Hg. Not sure if that's what dictates how low of a vacuum it can pull, but...
With the flare fittings, maybe they aren't tight enough? I'd imagine the only issue with overtightening the flare fittings would be stripping the threads and it not sealing. Maybe that's what's happening?
Bit of an off-topic question but, t_g_, on your e-fan setup, do you use a trinary switch to trigger the fans for when you're not moving and the A/C is on or did you not worry about it?
Worried I won't be able to find a second-hand fan clutch, and may have to go with an e-fan.
My efan is on all the time except when I go into 4th and 5th gear. Its tied into the tranny wiring harness just below the brake MC for the circuit that was used by the ECU to detect cruising mode.
New drier? I'd wait until the whole system is proven leak free and then change it. That way you only have the receiver drier connections to worry about getting right.
I bought that one, the AC manifold and the leak detector at HF a few months ago. That pump works like a charm and getting down to -28hg is about as far as you can go with almost any pump.
Not to bring this back from the dead or anything but I wanted to add in case anyone else has issues with their flare fittings that they check out FlareSeal gaskets and Nylog sealant oil.
I'd recommend the sealant oil on any joint and using the FlareSeal gaskets on any joint that still leaks after you use the sealant. Normally you probably don't need either but the sealant will not hurt anything to just add to all the joints. It's safe and compatible with the refrigerants. I believe its basically thicker ester oil.
The flareseal gaskets will fill in any small scratches on the face of the joints.
09-18-20, 12:35 PM
