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In the dealer install documentation there is no mention of using o-rings between the hose connections. (Perhaps it's common sense but they are telling you what size the screws and bolts are and other "minor" details.) While I have bought o-rings to use, I don't really know how to install them. Looking online has been difficult as most pictures show a grove to install in or show a completely different fitting. I have been installing them during the process of putting everything together but I recall AN fittings looking similar and not using o-rings due to the 45 degree shape. Basically, the way I have been installing them is to find an o-ring that is closest to the orifice size and juggling it with the two hose ends, sandwiching everything together, and hoping that it doesn't move during tightening down. Does that seem correct?
Btw, I'm not reusing the drier. It's for example only.
I just found a video talking about mini-splits. They had the same flare fittings and didn't use o-rings and really the whole process looked a lot like doing brake lines. I guess I'll remove all the components again to remove the o-rings. Better now then after I'm "done."
Damn, you are right. I have the wrong one. I couldn't find the Murray one on Rockauto or Amazon. Seems like only O'Reilly's is the only carrier. Thank you for the correct part number.
Well, I just picked up the drier from O'Reilly and we'll the ends are flared but there is this extra added plug. I don't think it'll matter but in case it does. What does it do? Tell you when the pressure is low?
Thats a low-high pressure plug. You can tap it into your lead for the compressor and it will open if the pressure gets too high or too low, probably >300 or less than 20 psi or there abouts. That drier is under vacuum so don't remove the plugs unless you are ready to hook up. Otherwise extra moisture from the air will shorten its lifespan.
@t_g_farrell I did briefly open it to make sure the ends were right. I know some humidity entered but I figured the 5 seconds wouldn't hurt in the grand scheme. I'll likely hook up the plug after I ensure everything else is working. Thank you for the help! Hopefully, I'll get everything going tonight.
Figured I'd do a final post. I finally have everything installed and the AC is working pretty good. The only issue now is dealing with idle and Weber 48 IDA tuning to compensate for the extra load. That and to continue monitoring the compressor. It sweats a lot and was making an odd noise after running for a while, the belt was loose so I'm hopeful tightening it will help.
Does it sweat all over the compressor or just from how cold the cold-side fitting/hose gets? Fairly warm and humid weather?
I'd say you're probably all good as long as it isn't excessive.
I am FAR from an AC expert though. You could just have a shop test and make sure the pressures are normal for whatever refrigerant used if you're really worried about it.
I'm not terribly concerned about it. The performance is solid 40 degrees and the cabin gets to 65 degrees fairly quick. It was hot and humid hear so the sweat is likely due to that. I'm sure I'm just looking for things to go wrong. The evap box doesn't sweat, well the drain tube of course does, but when I turn off the car it also makes a sound.. that's probably the refrigerant still moving through the system.
I have a leak between the High side hose and the compressor the "sweat" was actually the refrigerant leaking. I have used Nylog Blue both times but it still leaks a full charge will last about a week. I don't recall seeing any damage on the mating surfaces but I'll inspect at a later time but could I be over tightening? What could I try? I recall seeing conical flare rings. Any suggestions?
I have a leak between the High side hose and the compressor the "sweat" was actually the refrigerant leaking. I have used Nylog Blue both times but it still leaks a full charge will last about a week. I don't recall seeing any damage on the mating surfaces but I'll inspect at a later time but could I be over tightening? What could I try? I recall seeing conical flare rings. Any suggestions?
I still have leak to hunt down but I did over tighten several fittings which leaked so bad it would not hold vacuum for more than 20 minutes. The ones I over tightened, the orings were actually ripped. So yeah over tightening is a thing. I saw some advice that said to hand tighten and then apply a wrench for an extra 1/4 turn or so, thats it. I did that and fixed some big leaks, now I need to check connections under the cowl around the dryer and the condenser. I suspect leaks there too.AC is fun, no?
With the flare fittings, maybe they aren't tight enough? I'd imagine the only issue with overtightening the flare fittings would be stripping the threads and it not sealing. Maybe that's what's happening?
Bit of an off-topic question but, t_g_, on your e-fan setup, do you use a trinary switch to trigger the fans for when you're not moving and the A/C is on or did you not worry about it?
Worried I won't be able to find a second-hand fan clutch, and may have to go with an e-fan.
I read from the vender that I'm using Nylog wrong. I was only using it on the mating surface and apparently you slather it on the threads and everything. So, I guess I'll give it another go once I buy a vacuum and manifold, I was renting but I feel bad renting it every other weekend.
At this point should I buy another drier? I have just been pulling vacuum for a few hours and leaving it to rest and pull moisture for about 12 hours or so and pulling again if necessary.
08-15-20, 07:54 AM
