Sir Surr

Hey guys, I got a parts car, I've been trying to fix it, the previous seller said it was probably the carb, and that it ran before but I rebuilt the carb and I'm trying to get it to start and it just cranks. There's a lot of oil on the rear plugs, they drip when I take em out, and I was wondering if that might be an oil control ring? I'm not quite sure, I've tried a lot of the tricks to get it to start and none have worked, I've deflooded it quite a bit, still doesn't work, the best I can get it to do is smoke a lot from the exhaust but it won't start, it gets spark and fuel
any help is appreciated thanks

KansasCityREPU

iTrader: (9)

1. Ensure you have spark on all plugs. The Leading plugs are the important ones though. Put in clean plugs first.
2. Ensure you have fuel.
3. Ensure you have a good battery.

If 1, 2, and 3 are good, you might try pull starting it. You must be very careful and use second gear. If it starts, be prepared to push the clutch in so you don't hit the tow car. Pulling it increase the starting RPM from about 200 to 1500-2000 RPM building up a lot more combustion. You can also try a little oil down the carb to help build combustion but don't do too much.

Sir Surr

Okay, I'll try this in the next 2 days, not sure if I can get anything to pull start it with but ill check for spark on all the plugs, and report back. Also I'm pretty sure the spark looked relatively weak to me? Should I possibly try new plugs?

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

NGK BR8EQ-14 spark plugs are what should be in the engine. A weak coil, a weak ignitor, a dirty or bad distributor cap and or rotor, corroded wiring or corrosion on the pins in a connector can cause poor spark. You need to go through those as well.

When you deflood the engine are you cranking it with all of the plugs removed to push the old fuel out of the spark plug holes? If so does the compression sound even?

How old is the gas in the tank? What's in the fuel filter? Has it been replaced recently? Is the battery good and the engine turning over quickly when cranking? Are your grounds clean and tight?

Sir Surr

I did a compression test with a regular tester just to get an idea, I've heard it's not super accurate but the front was around 71 on all faces and the rear was about 60ish on all faces, it sounds fine when I deflood, which yes I remove all the spark plugs and crank etc, they said they changed the fuel filter and that it ran perfectly then one day stopped, I didn't really check but they replaced the pump and it's getting gas to the carb, the gas is clear and doesn't smell old. Where would I check for the grounds? Like the battery and all that or just everything? I'm thinking of putting my other cars dizzy cap on if this one is bad, and the igniters because they were also fine on my other car, is that a good idea? Thanks for the help

Sir Surr

I was gonna ask, my choke is also broken, it doesn't pull the linkages or anything, would it help the car start by holding down the choke flap manually? Thanks again

KansasCityREPU

iTrader: (9)

The PSI numbers are low but doesn't necessarily mean bad compression at this point. Because there is lower then desired compression, pull starting it will help build the compression. The goal here is to just get it running. Once you get it running, keep it running but don't over rev it. If it wants to idle at 2-3k, that's OK for now The idea is to get the engine deflooded and loosen up any stuck seals.

KansasCityREPU

iTrader: (9)

Make sure the water temp sensor on the back of the water pump housing is plugged in and the wires not broken. They have a tendency to get crispy from heat and break very easily.This controls the electromagnet in the choke pull. You can also prop it open with something against the choke ****.

Sir Surr

Installed the new plugs, my friends and I checked all the spark, every plug had spark, we tried pull starting it and it would idle for about 5 seconds, while rolling at about 1000 -1200 rpms, didn't work, we got it up to 4 but it wouldn't start, we deflooded it each time, found out an alternator was siezed and eating belts, changed it to a good one from my other '85, still no start. Could my idle adjustment screw be insanely out of adjustment? When it roll started it sounded okay, it was quiet but it didn't sound bad. Any thoughts?

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

When you rebuilt the carb, did you check or alter the float level? How deep did you go in the carb rebuild?

Have you drained the tank or dropped it toninsoect it to see if it's full of sediment? How does the fuel filter look? Is it full of sediment?

Sir Surr

The fuel filter is fine and new, not getting any sediment, and the gas coming out the lines to the carb (had them off and saw what was coming out before on accident) looked fine and didn't smell old, and the people I bought it from said the gas was fairly new, but it's probably reaching about 2 months. As for the carb rebuild, I did one of the kits from Atkins, checked all my jets and made sure they were fine, and I adjusted the floats to the spec for what the paper said, although I'm fairly certain I need to readjust the one that faces the front of the car because after this last time it flooded a little bit, nothing too bad though, does any of that information help at all? Thanks for all the help btw