Erifx

Ok new problem is happening. When I am going down the highway I am at 50MPH and I am speeding up to 65MPH. The cars RPMs well jump from around 3000 to 4500 and then when I get to around 60MPH the RPMs well go back down to around 3000. I dont change gears I dont let off the gas. What going on? PLZ Help

nff

you missed the most important piece of info.. manual or auto. if its auto thas just the torq converter locking if its manual you may have a slipping clutch. the extra load of the pull to 65 may be enough to cause it to slip where a set speed isent enough load.

t_g_farrell

iTrader: (1)

This is a classic symptom of a clutch going out on a manual. Its an early warning
so take notice and replace it now. You have been warned

Erifx

Yes sorry it is a manual. So, your saying its the clutch,mind you I am new to this, but I am not useing the clutch when the issue is happening. With the new information does it still add up to a clutch...and if so could any body help me find a replacement?

Erifx

https://idwww.youtube.com/watch?v=1hJB12qVDYk&feature=youtube_gdata_player

cshaw07

iTrader: (14)

so the engine revs but you dont really seem to be going any faster? clutch is slipping. When your foot is off of the clutch pedal, the clutch disk is engaged with the flywheel, it is what lets the power from the engine spin the gears in the transmission to make the wheels go. What looks to be happening with yours is, the clutch is wearing out. Which means that its not grabbing the flywheel good enough and when under load it slips. Allowing the flywheel to free spin just like if you had the clutch pushed in and reved the motor. Obviously not as bad as they yet, or the car wouldnt move at all lol but you get the idea. i have a stock clutch in good condition. make an offer, ill let it go CHEAP

Erifx

I don't really know how much it goes for, but I know the hole kit I can get for about 100 I just don't know what you mean by just the clutch. Do you mean the hole assembily?

Erifx

I don't really know how much it goes for, but I know the hole kit I can get for about 100 I just don't know what you mean by just the clutch. Do you mean the hole assembily?

DivinDriver

iTrader: (15)

A clutch is like an inside-out disk brake; two flat pieces of steel that squeeze a friction-coated disk. The disk is connected to the trans; the steel surfaces and a spring-loaded pressure plate to the engine.

When the steels squeeze the friction disk (due to the spring force in the pressure plate), the engine is connected to the trans and you go. When you step on the clutch pedal, you release the squeeze, and the engine is disconnected from the trans.

If your clutch is in fact worn out, the most likely repair scenario is :

1) You'll need to replace the clutch friction disk. Like brake pads, these wear down until you've no longer got abrasive rubbing metal, but metal rubbing metal.

2) Odds are you'll also want to replace the pressure plate, which is the spring-loaded rear part of the clutch that grabs the spinning disk. These wear out two ways; the springs get weak or break, and the surface gets carved up by the friction disk over time, especially if the disk has worn down to where the rivets are touching.

3) You'll probably also want/need to have the flywheel resurfaced; like the pressure plate, it has a surface that engages the friction disk, and it gets worn/glazed/grooved/damaged as the disk finally wears out. This means having to pull the flywheel off the rear of the engine.

4) You'll replace the throw-out bearing simply because the only time it's easy to do so is when you have the trans out to replace the clutch. They cost little and are annoying as hell if they wear out when nothing else is wrong - they get noisy.

5) Changing the pilot bearing and it's seal is also a good idea if you have the clutch out. Same deal as the throw-out bearing.

6) You might want to replace the transmission front-cover and seal. The throw-out bearing slides on this aluminum piece, and they do wear out with time. It's another "while I'm in here" replacement item.

Erifx

Wow thanks, I know it kind of a lot to ask but if I like to drop the clutch every once and awhile what kind of clutch should I be looking for...

nff

one that comes with a new rear end if yours is stock lol. if your car is got a open differental those are easy to break so if it dose be prepared to replace it when it dose (i had it happen to me on a >65k mile car) but i'd personaly go with a stage 1 clutch so your not stalling it all over the place or having to do 2krpm engagements.

Erifx

I have been also looking at spark plug wires and good brands or if you know of any ones that you have in your cars that you like send me a link.

nff

mazdatrix and racing beat have plugwires and such. mazdatrix has better prices and thicker wires i'd go with them.
http://www.mazdatrix.com/getprice.asp?partnum=W4902

and if you decide to go iridium plugs your eather going to have to modify a sparkplug wrench or buy a $84 socket to get the plugs in or out. i went the cheap rout and got one of these and took it too the grinder untill it fit



they wear out easy though. but cheap enough to buy a few and keep spares.

-Gamah

iTrader: (1)

If you end up wanting to replace the clutch, I know a guy locally here that's got a lift who can help you out for cheap.

Erifx

Hay I know that would help beacause I also have to replace the exhaust and check where my oil leak is coming from. If you could check that would be great.