brcb7tuner

I just bought a FC thats converted to a distributor and carburetor and is running just a FC trailing coil for leading and trailing. I was reading and everyone says this is not possible but, mine is running ok and is firing the leading and trailing it's just when it gets past 4k rpm's it doesn't sound quite right. So if anyone has any input or suggestions on this please let me know. Thanks

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

you can use the coils, you just can't use the FC's trailing ignitor.

brcb7tuner

How can I tell if the ignitor has been removed?

brcb7tuner

Also on the negative side of the coil that is being used for trailing he has a wire connected that doesent go to anything should it be grounded?

SPENT-IT

iTrader: (15)

Needs to look like this.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

no. in the stock coil/ignitor configuration that is the check connector, you can plug a tachometer into it. grounding that would be bad

brcb7tuner

Would the car be able to run at all if the ignitor hadn't been removed? And would removing the ignitor be the same thing as if I just cut all the stock wiring so they are just two coils with ignition power and the ignitor signal wires going to them?

Also does this sound right for the wiring?

Igniter connectors are T shaped. The top of the T is negative, the bottom is positive. Front igniter is leading, with a stock Yellow/blue wire from negative terminal to the negative terminal on the leading (rear in stock position) coil. Igniter on the side of the distributor is trailing with a Yellow/green from the negative terminal to the negative terminal on the trailing (front in stock position) coil. Positive terminals for both igniters have stock Black/white wire direct to the positive terminal on the respective coils. A wire from the ignition switch that has power when car is on connects to the positive terminal on both coils. The stock tach gets its signal from the negative terminal of the trailing coil.

Thanks.

brcb7tuner

I got it figured out I guess the guy just randomly hooked up wires until it ran. The positive from the igniters was running to the wrong positive on the coils I'm surprised I didn't blow it up. Could someone please explain some more about the ignitor in the FC coil.

SPENT-IT

iTrader: (15)

Does your distributor have magnetic pickups or points?

This is what I recommend if it has magnetic pickups.
Buy a MSD 6A or 6AL..can be found used in the classifieds.
You only have to run the leading plugs, the spark will be very hot so the trailing are really not needed. You can set it up to run the trailing but it will cost more. You can use regular coils for the trailing as seen in the link provided below.

You will NOT need the leading ignitor on the distributor or on the leading coil. The MSD will be your ignitor, just plug the MSD wires into the distributor...no need to gut a ignitor you will see what im talking about in the links.

This will help give you a better understanding.

http://fc3spro.com/TECH/HOWTO/CDI/cdi.html
http://www.smbaker.com/rail/msd6a.html

You will get more power and more mileage if you care about that.

It's also a good thing to block off the OMP and premix, so you will have less fouling of plugs and your engine will last longer.

brcb7tuner

Do you think the MSD 6A with just leading would be better then me taking out the FC coil and put some MSD blaster coils in like stock?

SPENT-IT

iTrader: (15)

Yes MSD 6A with FC coil is the best route....It's called waste spark. The FC coils are well engineered.

Do a search for waste spark..