OK, so I got a newly rebuilt carb for my 1985 Gen 1. My old carb has a "rich solenoid" and the carb is threaded to accept the solenoid. The rebuilt carb has the same hole, but not threaded. Question - I think that solenoid was only on 84-85 M/T (according to the book)...is it really necessary and if not, do i plug the hole? Thanks for any insight provided!

Mike


solenoid

threaded hole - old carb

unthreaded hole, new carb

 

9 days late on this reply, but you are correct. The richer solenoid was not used from 81-83, although differing versions were used before and after then. There's no need to drill and tap, plug, or anything of the sort for the 81-83 carbs, you can just leave it open (it's not connected internally). Probably already figured that out by now, but if not, there ya are.

Cheers.

 

Thanks!!!!...that's exactly what I did...now I just have to figure out why the engine runs great without the air filter assembly installed and runs like crap or not runs with the assembly installed...???

 

Leave it plugged in. It will run like crap if it doesn't have 12v.going to the richer solenoid. Flood the fuel bowls

 

I believe you're thinking of the float bowl vent solenoid (FBVS), not the richer solenoid like pictured in this thread. The FBVS will indeed cause all sorts of issues due to keeping the bowls from venting if it's not removed or provided with constant 12V power, but again, different solenoid than in question here.

The factory air filter assembly has a number of hoses that run to it for air feeds and returns. One is the idle compensator which is a bimetallic valve built into the bottom of the filter assy. If it's defective it can cause some issues (really just idle speed), or if the line going to it is leaking you'll have a big vacuum leak (again, idle speed). That's the only thing that comes to mind though. The other connections should be the air pump supply and ACV bypass return, and the charcoal canister (depending on the year), none of which should really cause issues.

 

None of those should cause any issues at all if open or closed. If his air filter being on causes issues the only thing restricting airflow is his air filter. He can test this by having the filter assembly with the top open . Seems silly but maybe there is an obstruction in the air filter assembly tube or his filter is really clogged. Those pipes you mention feed air into the carb but its not forced at all and don't really hold a vacuum if so taking the stock lid off will cause the same issues.

 

Correct, with the exception of the idle compensator valve as I mentioned. I suppose I assumed that it had already been tested with the air box lid off, so I was just referring to things connected to the airbox itself. I mentioned the other hoses to say that they shouldn't the source of the problem and therefore don't need to be checked, hence my sentence "The other connections should be the air pump supply and ACV bypass return, and the charcoal canister (depending on the year), none of which should really cause issues". If I didn't convey that well then my apologies.

 

I misread the post and understood it as if that would cause an issue. If he has issues when he puts the lid on then something must be restricting air flow. Maybe his filter has the plastic wrap still on it 😂

 

QUOTeYou are correct. I was thinking of the vent valve. The idle compensator hose needs to be plugged any time u remove air cleaner.