replacing tie rod bushings
#1
JDGJr
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replacing tie rod bushings
I have my front suspension apart, ready to install poly bushings.
But I'm looking for ideas on how to get the old grease-filled bushings out of there. Can I just cut off the rubber, or do I need to melt them out of there?
But I'm looking for ideas on how to get the old grease-filled bushings out of there. Can I just cut off the rubber, or do I need to melt them out of there?
#6
JDGJr
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yes, the pieces are off the car.
I need to remove the original boots/bushings/wtf that go at both ends of the tie arm assembly - where it attachs to the center link, and where it attaches to the knuckle arm.
there is a similar bushing on each control arm between it and the knuckle arm.
hope this describes what I'm trying to do.
I need to remove the original boots/bushings/wtf that go at both ends of the tie arm assembly - where it attachs to the center link, and where it attaches to the knuckle arm.
there is a similar bushing on each control arm between it and the knuckle arm.
hope this describes what I'm trying to do.
#7
Old [Sch|F]ool
Those are not bushings, those are just rubber boots.
if you have sealed type tie rod ends (no grease fittings) then if you remove the factory boot, the tie rod needs to be replaced.
If you have the inferior high friction grease-fitting type tie rod end, the boot just pulls off. There is no advantage to replacing them, unless you just want a color other than black.
There are no bushings. Tie rod ends are ball and socket setups, very similar to rod-ends. The good kind (non grease fitting) are Teflon-lined, the grease fitting style are just metal on metal.
if you have sealed type tie rod ends (no grease fittings) then if you remove the factory boot, the tie rod needs to be replaced.
If you have the inferior high friction grease-fitting type tie rod end, the boot just pulls off. There is no advantage to replacing them, unless you just want a color other than black.
There are no bushings. Tie rod ends are ball and socket setups, very similar to rod-ends. The good kind (non grease fitting) are Teflon-lined, the grease fitting style are just metal on metal.
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#9
Idler arm
If you mean the right side of the car as being the passenger side, then it is probably the idler arm. The boots on those knuckles can be replaced cut them off with side cutters go to Advance Auto look in the red part’ section the one with replacement screws and such they have tie rod rubber boots two in a package they fit perfect just pack them with wheel bearing grease I did mine they work great.
#10
JDGJr
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Thanks, tunafish, for the first answer to my original question- how to get the boots off...
were you able to remove all of the old rubber boot, even the part that seems to be attached to the knuckle metal? All of mine are firmly attached, and I'm thinking I have to apply some heat to get a clean result.
were you able to remove all of the old rubber boot, even the part that seems to be attached to the knuckle metal? All of mine are firmly attached, and I'm thinking I have to apply some heat to get a clean result.
#11
dont need the heat
You wont need to heat them up. It is a metal ring compressed on very tightly at the factory. Dig down deep into this metal ring with the side cutters and nip at it two or three bites and the ring will snap off. The replacement boots do not have this metal ring as do none of the after market boots I have seen, but they work great once you put the crown nut back on and tork them down the boots will compress holding the grease in and as I said I have used them with great results.
#13
Hunting Skylines
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Yes, they're easy to remove and replace. Just give the outer ring a quick tap with a chisel or screwdriver and it will come right off. The cheap aftermarket replacements usually have a round spring that holds the boot on.
Last edited by REVHED; 07-07-05 at 07:48 PM.
#14
Old [Sch|F]ool
But if it's a non greasable tie rod, removing the boot is groudns for throwing the part away, given that a replacement boot will not seal as good as the original.
Mazda factory tie rod ends are the low-friction lined parts. My '80 still had the originals on it after 142k and they were still play-free.
Mazda factory tie rod ends are the low-friction lined parts. My '80 still had the originals on it after 142k and they were still play-free.
#15
Thats Why
I didnt just replace mine on a whim I had to replace the idler arm using a ball joint seperator I tore the boot 10 years ago or more. Recently while under the car I inspected the other rubber boots they were all torn grease oozing out when I removed what was remaining the ball and socket were shiny no rust the gease had protected them over the years. So I replaced them and packed new grease in. Although not as good a seal as the factory the still serve the purpose keeping dirt out and grease in. If you dont have to replace them dont in my case I had no choice. If you do a google search you can find 100% silicone boots in a variety of colors but They cost more. Go ahead and replace them they will be fine.
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I think Vicky B sells these boots as well. I have two sets sitting someplace unopened because mine were all cracked open horizontally on my '80. The '82 looks to have some cracked boots as well, so I suppose I might as well install them on it.
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