You all know how to start the engine, turn the key to start, then let go, right? the key stays on 'ON'. and -SE's
do they have a different type of switch because of the FI ? Where the key goes in is not the ignition switch, yeah it's part of it but not the 'real' switch. The real switch is at the back of where the key goes in. It's where all the wires are soldered, a small white round plastic multi keyed switch. has any one rebuilt the white switch ? how hard is it to replace the white switch, does one end plug into anything.. ' SOME ADVICE TO ALL - DON'T HAVE A **** LOAD OF KEYS OR OTHER **** ON YOUR KEY RINGS, THE WEIGHT OF ALL THAT **** WEARS OUT THE IGNITION SWITCH(S)' PLUS THE CAR IS OLD ALREADY AND IT WILL STRAND YOU WITH NO WARNINGS '. the engine starts but won't stay running because the switch doesn't stay in position even if you jam something in it to hold it there. Doesn't work.

 

Mark,

The ignition switch is really easy to replace. Depending on your budget I would suggest a wrecking yard or to buy the switch new. I had mine fail on me also. I was at a gas station and the accessories position failed. I could crank the car, but it would not start. Luckily, I had my Haynes manual with me for the wiring diagrams. I made a jumper wire to power the accessories and I was able to get it started and get it home. I think that maybe the spring in your switch is messed up. I am 99% sure that the switch is the same as the non EFI cars.

Kent

 

Yeah, your right , i went to mazda they want $130.00 + tax for a new switch,,,crazy. So what did you do ??? buy a new switch. While at mazda i took over the parts counter and researched on there fiche viewer. and found it is a plug-in switch... i didn't know how it went together. it's the copper contacts that wear out the 'notches' become smooth. doesn't that suck when it fails ?? thanks man,

 

Mark,

I initially got a switch at a wrecking yard. I think it was $15. I did eventually get a new switch; these things can go at any time and leave you stranded. I think that $130 is not too bad for peace of mind (considering the price of some of the new parts for these cars). My switch is now good but either the tumbler is messed up or my key is just plain worn out. I can pull the key out with the car running.

One funny thing that I didn't mention is that on the way home, my jumper wire fell off and the car died while going down the highway. The highway didn't have much of a shoulder, but I pulled over as far as I could. Well, here I am trying to connect the wire back on and I couldn't open the door because of traffic. Next thing I know a cop knocks on my window. I am thinking this looks pretty bad with me having the ignition switch ripped apart and me messing with the wires. The cop though that there was something wrong with me because I was slouched over. He was nice enough to help me push the car into a parking lot where I could work on it easier. He did check my license and registration though.

Kent

 

The switch is the same on non-efi cars

 

( update) Well, it's fixed. went to the junkyard that i knew a -SE was at. and grabed the switch from it. I've never fooled with any rx7's wiring under the dash, so i used the junkyards cars to practice on. and first try was good enough. yeah, it is pretty easy to change out these switches.

 

I have an 85, a few weeks ago my car juts stopped getting power. I think it might be the ignition switch, my car would sometimes continue to try to star even after I puled out the key. But right now there is no power to the car what so ever, besides the ignition key light (I think). The brake lights won't go on the pop up lights won't work etc. I have checked the battery and all the grounds. Do you think this is a problem with the ignition or wiring, if wiring where and what kind.

 

Have you checked the fuseable links on the drivers shock tower?

 

If the fix isn't readily apparent, try creating a new thread with your issue. This way more people will see your question and are more likely to respond.

As stated above, first check the fusible links for a burned link or broken wire. You can also perform a continuity test on each fusible link if you're unsure. Then move into the interior fuses. The METER fuse in particular is the one I'm thinking of. Let us know what you find.