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Replace engine mounts in a 1.gen? S5 engin mounts.
Hi, does anyone hva done this before? And have pics on how to do it? 😊
I want to see how it can be done to use the middle engine monuts on a 13b s5 engine in a sa/fb car 😊
I know that almost everyone swap the front cover and use the front mount engine stands, but than I cant use the electric Omp. And the front mount with over 300hp is not a good way to go, since the oil pressure is going true the front cover and in to the front steels channel...the engine with 3-400hp will twist on the frount mount and cause a leak of the oil pressure between the front cover and the front steels oil channels, than the engine over time will suffer from this and cause a engine failure...
I know its diffrent meanings and so on, but thats mine and I want to weld in some kind of engine mounts to use the orginal t2 engine ones 😊😉
But I cant find any build treads on it..
Do a second gen front cradle swap. This gets you the factory second gen engine mounting plus rack-and-pinion steering. There are a few threads in the First Gen technical section on this.
FC front suspension swap would give you what you want plus the other perks. But if you're just worried about twisting the engine stack from brute power, I think your fears are unfounded. Serious engine builds often use larger 1/2" (?) engine studs but don't worry much about the motor mounts. I think Mazda changed the mount location for packaging reasons rather than engine output.
I'm at my brother's house helping him work on his race car and I asked him what he thought. He runs a turbo 12A bracket car. Car dyno's 630hp back when it had the small turbo and it runs the 1/4 in 8.89@155mph. He uses the original motor mount points and hasn't had any problems in 15(?) years with this car. He has't heard of any rotory racers doing what you want for the reason you want.
It's your car and I encourage you to do what you want, but I dont think it's needed.
FC front suspension swap would give you what you want plus the other perks. But if you're just worried about twisting the engine stack from brute power, I think your fears are unfounded. Serious engine builds often use larger 1/2" (?) engine studs but don't worry much about the motor mounts. I think Mazda changed the mount location for packaging reasons rather than engine output.
I'm at my brother's house helping him work on his race car and I asked him what he thought. He runs a turbo 12A bracket car. Car dyno's 630hp back when it had the small turbo and it runs the 1/4 in 8.89@155mph. He uses the original motor mount points and hasn't had any problems in 15(?) years with this car. He has't heard of any rotory racers doing what you want for the reason you want.
It's your car and I encourage you to do what you want, but I dont think it's needed.
Yes I know that this works for most builders, and a way to be safe is to make new oil channels so you dont get these chance of loosing some of the oil pressure. I was told of these issue from a engine builder that has been working on these engine since 1979, so I'm taking his advice just to be safe 😉
And I do it because I want to keep the orginal OMP also, and if I change the front cover I cant use that anymore 😊
But I have no doubt in what your brother says aswell...It will always be 1000 diffrent ways people does thing's, and this is my way 😉
Nice car you brother have there!!! 😎
Yes I know that this works for most builders, and a way to be safe is to make new oil channels so you dont get these chance of loosing some of the oil pressure. I was told of these issue from a engine builder that has been working on these engine since 1979, so I'm taking his advice just to be safe 😉
And I do it because I want to keep the orginal OMP also, and if I change the front cover I cant use that anymore 😊
But I have no doubt in what your brother says aswell...It will always be 1000 diffrent ways people does thing's, and this is my way 😉
Nice car you brother have there!!! 😎
The way this is worded implies you wish to use a stock N350 or N370 ECU. One other concern that may crop up is if a turbo is in your future as swapping the Front Cover to a GSL-SE one eliminates the stock Turbo Oil Drain port. One possible solution is to source a 12A Turbo Front Cover, but that might be rather difficult due to several factors. The other option is to weld a bung onto the Oil Pan. One other thing to factor in is that the hardware for one of the FC engine mount brackets is bolted THROUGH the oil pan, creating another potential leak. This is not a factor on earlier or later engines.
If it were me, I'd go the "Keep it simple" approach and use a GSL-SE Front Cover with a Series 4 OMP and build the linkage from scratch for one reason. Series 5 OMPs have a tendency to conk out, making Series 5 ECUs go into Limp Mode unless they are Rtek modified (kinda hard to find anymore). Also, they have a known propensity that when they conk out, they tend to take the ECU with it too. Or Vise versa, dying ECU kills the OMP. Plus, I would feel better knowing that such a vital part of the car which is so close to the exhaust would have no heat-sensitive electronics in it that would be a known and avoidable Achilles' Heel on your build. Add a Rotary Aviation OMP Adapter and you'll have quite the robust setup.
Before diving in, I think the question you should ask yourself is "What path has the fewest variables and weaknesses?"
02-12-22, 04:43 AM
