The_7

I'm getting in a little over my head with my project, so I have to rethink my plans to make them more practical, saving money whenever possible. So I'm taking it step by step, starting with the rear suspension.

My original plans called for the full GForce Engineering setup - panhard, tri-link, etc. This adds up quickly. I need a setup thats not to expensive, but will still give me nice firm handling. This is mainly a street car, but I'll go to an autox every now and then.

I already have a GSLSE rear end (not installed yet). I have Tokico Blues that were put on there by the previous owner, and seem to be in good shape. They were on with the stock rear end. Will they fit with the SE rear end?

Not quite sure about springs, any suggestions? Those aren't to big of a deal, something reasonably priced and moderatly stiff - maybe RB.

The main problem is the suspension geometry - the stock watts link and upper arms binding up and causing snap oversteer. I need to stop the binding, or at least greatly reduce it. I read the write up on using nylock nuts and loosening the upper arm bushings. I'm thinking of doing this and maybe adding a few of my own little ideas to it. However, will this give much of an improvement (taking into account a good shock/spring combination) ? If not, maybe I can get either the panhard or tri-link, but not both - to save $$$. Any Ideas?

Swaybar - might do without it, depending on how stiff my springs are.

Thanks in advance for any help.

Kingbob

We Did the nylock nut thing on the autox *****'s suspension and it will hold the tail out and not come around now (My little brother drove it at his first autoX so there was a lot of tailwagging). I'd say it works pretty well. It keeps it in check but if you have the cash going with the tri-link would be better. The fastest fendered car in our area is usually a '79 running in CSP with a trilink under it.

The_7

Is the trilink a bolt in job with no welding? Maybe I will do the nylock thing for now for some decent handling, and then sometime in the future after the car is done and I have extra money I will buy the trilink.

Any word on if those tokico blues will fit with me SE rear end?

Rx7carl

Trilink bracket needs to be welded to the rear end housing. Other than that its drill and bolt on. But I dont think you can use a tri link with the watts linkage, itll interfere with it.

The_7

Hmm, well I think I'll just go with the Nylock mod for now, and then eventually I'll get the GForce stuff.

jgrewe

iTrader: (1)

Keep in mind that springs for the G-Force set-up will be a lot stiffer than you can run with any thing else. Don't expect the RB springs to work good with the tri-link, RB picked rates that go with a bound up rear suspension. RB's are probably 175lb/in, tri-link can run 300lb/in no problem.

The_7

Well I guess I'll have to get the RB set for now. If I try to get the full GForce setup and get all top of the line stuff, It will take me forever to finish my car. It's already been sittin on jackstands for like 2 years, lol.

So I will be running Tokico blues, RB springs, and the Nylock Mod. Does this sound like a good combination for good handling in a streetcar?

diabolical1

iTrader: (3)

sounds like a good street setup to me.

Rx7carl

And it wont be atrocious on the autox course. Get that thing off teh jackstands and go have some fun with it!

jgrewe

iTrader: (1)

You have entered the black hole of project cars. It has a long name, "WhileIHaveItThisFarApartIMightAsWellGetThisForOnl yAHundredBucks". Pretty soon you have the next years worth of paychecks spent in your head. And your car is still on jack stands... Throw it on the ground and develope it while you have fun driving it.