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They might fall out when jacking up the car, if not jacking on the axle. I actually think this is unlikely though if you have stock 4 link suspension, watts and sway bar since those will all tend to bind at some point limiting droop. Mine did get cockeyed when I jack the car up from the side jack points, but didn't ever come close to falling out. I have tri-link, panhard and no rear swaybar, so nothing to bind and overall the rear axle seems to sag (when jacked up) a lot more than stock.
The bump stop will probably keep it lined up in any case. I originally removed mine to keep from hitting the bumpstops not thinking the whole thing through. After doing that I found that while racing the lower spring mount would actually hit the "frame rail" sometimes. I ended up reinstalling a cut-down bump stop . It is about (?) half the original length and has eliminated the problem with the lower spring seat hitting the "frame rail".
To make it easier to jack the car at the track for quick tire changes mid-enduro, I made droop limiting straps. The attached picture shows the droop limiting straps, dent in "frame rail" and cut-down bump stop.
That was probably more information than you needed. Sorry about that
Thank you, this is perfect information! After I posted this I decided to go back out there and start measuring. I already had the old springs (Tokico HPS-5050 (I think they are around 12 inches long and 111 lbs linear) out and the upper link removed for replacement of new ones (fresh rubber). So while I couldn't get the measurements of the stock droop I was able to figure out that the spring falling out in droop would be a bit difficult. I mostly lift the rear by the diff but my concern was if I ever took it to a lift that lifted by the body of the car and not the wheels that when putting the car back on the ground things may not settle back properly.
@Carl My follow-up question is the adjuster. I bought Allstar 56119, it doesn't fit all the way up the bumpstop/spring retainer but stops about 1.5 - 2 inches down. Is that acceptable? I figured it should slide up higher, maybe not to the top but a lot closer. Do I need to buy I different adjuster? specs here Basically the ID of the "pipe" is 3 inches. Of course, the perch is 5 and the length is 4 inches. I assume I'll need to either cut it down or something as currently as it sits the bottom of the adjuster unit hangs down to the bottom of the stock-length bumpstop. If you happen to know the part number for a better adjuster let me know. Thank you for your time and help!
I ended up welding some circle track spring seats to the housing, just to help with noise from the springs rattling against the stock seats as the car articulated from side to side. The droop limiter straps are a really great addition, makes it easier to jack the car, and completely eliminates the possibility of the spring popping out.
I am pretty sure that this is the adjustable spring seat that I used https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speed...cer,33328.html I cut off about 2" of the fat end (see pic) so that is would sit as close as possible to the frame in the spring pocket. I then cut off the metal part of the bump stop and trimmed it down so that it would fit through the threaded portion of the spring seat and welded the shortened tip back in place. I also tried to take off my arm with the angle grinder so be careful trying to do cut-off work up in the spring pocket. A plasma cutter might work better if you have access, but I didn't have one. I have attached a pic with dimensions for the modified bumpstop (both metal and rubber components modified) as well as a sketch trying to explain the bumpstop mod.
In my opinion, you can avoid the adjustable spring perch modification by just getting some different thickness universal rubber spacers. Kind of like these, except not split https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speed...pacer,689.html That is what I was originally using, but when I started playing around with different spring rates I thought I needed some adjustability. Not sure I did, but that is what I have now.
Just saw your specs on the adjuster you have. I have the equivalent of the 56118. You might be able to make the 56119 work too. Probably more work though because the bumpstop mod would have to be a lot cleaner at the frame to weld it in place. The base of the 56118 fits around the base of the stock metal part of the bumpstop.
Wow! Thank you all of you for the information. Based on what's been said so far body modifications are a little more then I'm willing to take on at the moment. My position will likely change as time progresses and I think it through. I think I'll see where 5x8 gets me and if too low (which appears to be about a 2 inch drop (source)) I'll install a spring spacer.
I'm installing 5x8 200lb springs and according to the hooke's law calculator from the above source:
Next question is bump stops. I know I need to cut these down but I would like to retain the original stops especially since they are NLA. Has anyone found replacement bump stops? The bolt is M10 x 1.25 by 25mm. It appears the energy suspension bump stops are threaded standard (9.9121) or the ones with the integrated washer (9.9135) too small. I think I could modify the bolt down ones to work but was curious if anyone else worried about this and if so if they arrived at the same solution?
What about something like these: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/whl-w93449 You could substitute bolts as needed.
A bump stop somewhere is important because you don't want your shocks to bottom out.
I don't have pics anymore, but I lowered the attachment points for the rear shocks so my short springs wouldn't come loose. I bolted bar stock to both sides of the shock/suspension attachment brackets so that the shocks attached an inch or so lower than OEM. I didn't notice any difference in ride or handling.
**** fire! Thanks a lot for that link mustanghammer! I searched and searched and I guess from prior searches the algorithm was heavily favouring Jeep parts and energy suspension stuff because that's about the only thing I could see!
And to Elwood, I'm seriously considering fabricating my own traction drop brackets or whatever they are called. I'm having a seriously hard time justifying the $175 that technotoytuning is offering. I should be able to get away with 1/8 inch stock right?
When I originally made mine, I used 1/4" x 1-1/2" aluminum (if memory serves). If I did it again, I'd use steel to avoid the galvanic corrosion. I think 1/8" x 1-1/2" would be OK or 3/16" thick to be bulletproof.
To confirm Mustanghammer's recommendation the suggested part is damn near an exact match. I ended up getting the Australian version from Nolathane part number REV244.0000.
The length and the bolt size is the same (though I didn't use it) the only difference is them bump stop is just a wee bit wider.
05-25-21, 07:02 PM
