All I have to say is hell yeah. Lol. The rats nest is out of my Rex hopefully eliminating lots of vacuum leaks. I have just a few questions about things that were unclear to me in the wonderful how-to by rx-7carl and pratch.

1) What do I "T" in with the white solenoid? I have two hoses left over. One from what I believe is the cruise control. The other left over is from the "sub-zero start assist reservoir." What do I hook each of these to? If I hook one up the other is still left useless? Right now I have this thing T'ed in with the white solenoid. Is this the cruise control? What is it? Have I done it correctly? If I have, what does the extra hose from the start assist res. go to? As far as I remember both hoses were hooked into the piping of the nest.



In the how-to it says to "T" the first vacuum opening to the solenoid and then to the cruise control. On my 85 GS Auto this leaves the start assist hanging. WHAT GIVES??

 

Man I wrote that so long ago (in dog years anyway).

First off, totally remove the sub zero **** ahd chuck it all. Then plug the nozzle on the carb. IIRC, the rest was explained. The sub zero wasnt mentioned in the tutorial as I reacall cause its not part of the emissions. Same for the hot start, which BTW you can remove and stomp on.

 

ok i was wondering, i bought a car with the nest removed and im confused.
if all the vacum lines going to my distibutr are removed ( as is the case on my car) how can the vacume advance, and all the other features of a mechanical dist. car, or any other things controlled by the vacum, Work?

 

The vac advance wont work if its disconnected. Study the tutorial and you'll see the correct way to do it.

 

So is what I have labeled in the picture above as the cruise control, really the cruise control? And am I correct in my methods when I t'd it into the white solenoid?

Also, I"m not real familiar with what the hot start looks like or where its at. Where can I find a good pic of it? Thanks for the help.

 

Yes, that is the cruise control.

The hot start assist is bolted to the strut tower on the drivers side and has a cable coming off of it that goes to the carb. Its held on by like 2 bolts I think, and has a single wire connector going to it.

~T.J.

 

Does anyone know where I can find a picture of it? Will I need to plug the connection where the hot start assist hooks to the carb? Anything else I need to do when I remove the sub-zero or hot-start assists?

 

wait now i need help...when i removed the rats nest i just plugged the vacume lines on the distributor. The car runs..should it?.. if not plug them then what do you do?

 

As I understand it, and according to the how-to, you use a T fitting (3/16" I believe) and "T" the two lines off the distributor, to your second opening from the left on the carb.

At least that's what the how to says, and that's how I did it. I've yet to start the car up, so we'll see what happens. I'm still working on plugging things and changing old crusty hoses...

 

While I'm at it, I was unclear on one other thing as well. There are a couple of pipes under the car in the how to that need to be plugged. The how to talks about using the "cut fold and crimp" method. The picture is really freaking close and I can't tell where the hell it is talking about. Where are these two lines under the car that I'm supposed to plug? (roughly)

After I get those plugged I should be good to go.

 

The hot start assist motor and cable can be removed. Nothing to plug up on that. Just tie the hook that the cable connects to up to the linkage bracket so it doesnt hang down. Otherwise it can get hung up when you move the throttle. On the sub zero, just remove it all and use a vacuum plug to cover the port where the hose went into the carb.

 

You can either hook it up, or not. If you dont want to use the vacuum advance, just leave the ports on the dizzy open, do NOT cap them. Just cap the port on the carb.

 

Yup. And if it aint broke, dont fix it right? Actually the vac advance helps in driveability and milage.

 

The pre cat and main cat have little metal pipes that go back up to the engine compartment. Those are the ones you get rid of. I suggest you gut the cats soon though as the lack of air will eventually cause them to fail. I drove mine for a year without gutting them, then I finally got my RB exhaust installed. Best suggestion on the cheap is to gut the precats and install a "test pipe" to replace the main cat.

 

Hate to revive the Ancient thread but....

Can you "crimp and fold" the metal pipes in the engine bay rather than under the car? Or (option #2) can't you do the "clamp and bolt" trick in the hose that is attached to the end of it in the engine bay?

Sorry if this is redundant but I am soooo near compleation I can almost taste the victory

 

Yea I guess you can do that. Oh and hollow them cats!