Hey all. I recently removed the rats nest on my car. Works wonders, but the car is running a bit rough now. There were some symptoms before I removed the rats nest but now its a fair bit worse. I have done some searching, and have not found what I am looking for. I remember reading somthing about this before, so if you could point me in in the right direction I would be mutch obliged.

I am guessing that my car is complelty out of tune ( timing is out of wack, mixture is out, everything is probabloy out)

Thanks, Ted.

 

Start looking for vacuum leaks. Did you put seals in when you installed the block off plates?

 

I just used the fin ugly mofro, because I am poor and have no vice grips, or tin snips, and sealed off all the hoses with silicone instead of blocking plates.

 

Sounds like at least one Silicone blob didn't seal.

 

its posible, but i checked everything alot. I discovered when I was doing teh rats nest removal, the distributer cap braket, used for ajusting the timing, was not mounted properly. So the braket could pivot changing the timeing. So now I sorta eyeballed the timing. I will double check the silcone, but I am 99% sure everything is sealed up.

I am also running those funky 4 prong sparks, by NGK. The last owner had the sparks replaced, and replaced them with these. I dunno if they are a good thing or bad thing.

 

Use nothing but NGK...

 

O I know. NGK all the way lol. I just hink I am running the wrong plugs. The roughness setleled down, after doing some tuning, and taking it for a good drive.... pedal to teh metal.

 

The proper plugs for your car are NGK BR8EQ-14s or BR9EQ-14s and they're supposed to have 4 prongs. If they don't, that's a bad thing.

If you're poor, the best way to cap all the little vacuum holes on the carb spacer is to cut 1" lengths of rubber vacuum hose and plug them with short screws and zip ties. Works well.

For the ACV, you *have* to have a proper block-off plate *and* silicon. Racingbeat has the blockoff plate for $6 last time I checked.

If you think your timing is off, get a timing light.

What exactly is it doing when you say "running rough"?

For the screws on the carb (if you're not sure) the middle one at the base of the carb can turn *lightly* all the way in (don't do it tight or you'll screw up the needle), then back out 3.5 turns. The other screw needs to be adjusted in or out until your idle is around 950-1000rpm

Make sure you have a proper gasket between the carb and the spacer, and that it doesn't block any of the vacuum holes.

Make sure the vacuum holes you created on the side of the intake manifold when you removed the shutter valve are properly plugged. I used JBWeld. Silicon will not work for this. It's JB or a block off plate.

The shutter valve's Butterfly should be left in place and JBWelded straight open, because otherwise it causes turbulance. I knew a guy whose car would not idle right under 1,100rpm after he removed it.

Make sure to check all possible sources of vacuum leaks.

Jon

 

I did not kow the carb trick. I will definitly do that ASAP. I am just wondering why I can't just put the ACV on and seal off all of the hoses coming from it. Could I also get a pic of your shutter valve JB weld. I am a little confused.


I also used high temp silicone not crappy stuff.

Thanks for all the great info.