Purchasing first SA tomorrow
02-25-16, 05:22 PM
#1
Full Member
Thread Starter
Purchasing first SA tomorrow
Hey guys! This is kind of an introduction/rebirth/ask for help post but I am very excited to get back into the rotary world after leaving it for about a decade for various piston engines. I wanted to reach out to you and more or less let you know where I will be in case I get stranded 
however I did want to clarify a few things that I have read on the forum before I make the journey.
As a fuel injected s5 13b owner in the past this will be my first carbureted 12a. I am renting a car from Savannah and driving about 300 miles or so to pick up a '79 SA. The owner has basically told me its immaculate (may be a member here) has a bridgeported 12a with holly carb, headers, exhaust, new plug wires, new tires, the whole shibang and feels confidant it can be driven as far as I am willing without issue. One big thing to note is the car does already have an upgraded radiator and as he puts it "can be redlined all the way home without overheating."
I plan on immediately checking the oil level, collant tank, undercarriage etc. and will be bringing a bag of tools with me as well. I have also read that for early sa's an 8oz bottle of two stroke oil in the tank at fill ups is recommended as well as using the ?lowest? octane fuel at the pump. I wanted to clarify that last bit and ask if there are any other particular things I should have in mind when looking this vehicle over....or more importantly anything I should check/bring to make it home in one piece.
I have read multiple threads on problem rust/cosmetic areas etc but I'm more concerned with mechanics. (He also states all lights, electronics, guages are good to go and the engine could not run any better).
Overall I may be typing this for my own sense of security but any advice, attaboys, go get em tigers, or words of wisdom in relation to an SA would be extremely helpful!
As always thank you for your help! (I am a big forum groupie once a new toy/project begins)
......Pray I pull into my drive way in the same car I left in!
P.S. Here is my old vert....
however I did want to clarify a few things that I have read on the forum before I make the journey.As a fuel injected s5 13b owner in the past this will be my first carbureted 12a. I am renting a car from Savannah and driving about 300 miles or so to pick up a '79 SA. The owner has basically told me its immaculate (may be a member here) has a bridgeported 12a with holly carb, headers, exhaust, new plug wires, new tires, the whole shibang and feels confidant it can be driven as far as I am willing without issue. One big thing to note is the car does already have an upgraded radiator and as he puts it "can be redlined all the way home without overheating."
I plan on immediately checking the oil level, collant tank, undercarriage etc. and will be bringing a bag of tools with me as well. I have also read that for early sa's an 8oz bottle of two stroke oil in the tank at fill ups is recommended as well as using the ?lowest? octane fuel at the pump. I wanted to clarify that last bit and ask if there are any other particular things I should have in mind when looking this vehicle over....or more importantly anything I should check/bring to make it home in one piece.
I have read multiple threads on problem rust/cosmetic areas etc but I'm more concerned with mechanics. (He also states all lights, electronics, guages are good to go and the engine could not run any better).
Overall I may be typing this for my own sense of security but any advice, attaboys, go get em tigers, or words of wisdom in relation to an SA would be extremely helpful!
As always thank you for your help! (I am a big forum groupie once a new toy/project begins)
......Pray I pull into my drive way in the same car I left in!
P.S. Here is my old vert....
Last edited by NISxMO; 02-25-16 at 05:28 PM.
02-25-16, 07:03 PM
#2
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what you've mentioned like check oil and water is good,
warm it up and then take it for a little test drive before driving it home checking how good the clutch and the brakes are.
you can use premix but I wouldn't use the lowest octane available.
all the best with the purchase and enjoy that Bridgeport.
warm it up and then take it for a little test drive before driving it home checking how good the clutch and the brakes are.
you can use premix but I wouldn't use the lowest octane available.
all the best with the purchase and enjoy that Bridgeport.
02-25-16, 09:53 PM
#3
84SE-EGI helpy-helperton
Go get'em, Tiger!
The SA is a special car, and a bit of me still misses the first RX7 I owned and loved for many years. My -SE fills the void easily, though. What you heard is pretty much rigt, a little extra pre-mix won't hurt it and might help. Lowest octane fuel is so that you don't get a lot of unburned gas in the thermal reactor, which the SAs have vs. cats. Plus, it's cheaper at the pump. If you drive it a bit, you should be able to get a feel for what it needs, and I'd take a close look at belts and hoses, give them a squeeze and feel for sponginess, as those are the items that could cause issues getting it home. Check tire pressures and tread depth. Take a close look at the coolant to be sure it's bright and not brown. Check the brake pads up front and look for meat on them. Clear the radiator and A/C condensor of bugs and DRIVE!
Once you get it hone, you can baseline all the fluids and make a closer inspection of what it might need. Post pics,
The SA is a special car, and a bit of me still misses the first RX7 I owned and loved for many years. My -SE fills the void easily, though. What you heard is pretty much rigt, a little extra pre-mix won't hurt it and might help. Lowest octane fuel is so that you don't get a lot of unburned gas in the thermal reactor, which the SAs have vs. cats. Plus, it's cheaper at the pump. If you drive it a bit, you should be able to get a feel for what it needs, and I'd take a close look at belts and hoses, give them a squeeze and feel for sponginess, as those are the items that could cause issues getting it home. Check tire pressures and tread depth. Take a close look at the coolant to be sure it's bright and not brown. Check the brake pads up front and look for meat on them. Clear the radiator and A/C condensor of bugs and DRIVE!
Once you get it hone, you can baseline all the fluids and make a closer inspection of what it might need. Post pics,
02-26-16, 05:38 AM
#4
I agree with the above. Just check the tires for dry rot and ensure the spare is filled with air and you have a jack and lug wrench. Bring a small tool kit if you want for a just in case moment. Can't wait to see pics!!
The SA really is a special car. Its raw and full of life. Its an amazing machine and much different from later 7's. Its one you will really enjoy!
The SA really is a special car. Its raw and full of life. Its an amazing machine and much different from later 7's. Its one you will really enjoy!
02-26-16, 08:49 AM
#5
Waffles - hmmm good
iTrader: (1)
I'd ask who did the bridgeport work on the 12A. Is it home grown or did a known shop do it.
Make sure to test drive and really inspect the car, do not trust much of what any seller tells you.
Driving it 300+ miles back will be an advanture, guranteed. Take lots of tools and good luck.
If you have issues post up on here and maybe we can help or are nearby to help.
Where is the seller location approximately?
Make sure to test drive and really inspect the car, do not trust much of what any seller tells you.
Driving it 300+ miles back will be an advanture, guranteed. Take lots of tools and good luck.
If you have issues post up on here and maybe we can help or are nearby to help.
Where is the seller location approximately?
02-26-16, 08:50 AM
#6
Waffles - hmmm good
iTrader: (1)
I'd also start looking at ditching that holley and hogging out a nikki and intake manifold to
drive that bridgeport. I bet it would be worlds better with a nikki feeding it than a holley.
drive that bridgeport. I bet it would be worlds better with a nikki feeding it than a holley.
02-26-16, 09:32 AM
#7
Full Member
Thread Starter
Thanks guys! I will definitely look into those things when i get back. The car is located in Orlando but i basically have a bag of tools, coolant, oil, 2 stroke oil and a credit card/cell phone for worst case scenarios lol.
I've always wanted the adventure of buying a car in another state and driving it home. I never expected it to be an sa or only 300 miles out but here goes nothing!
I should have it in my possession around 1:00 today pending it checks out.
He also said until very recently it was his daily so that puts me at ease a bit.
I've always wanted the adventure of buying a car in another state and driving it home. I never expected it to be an sa or only 300 miles out but here goes nothing!
I should have it in my possession around 1:00 today pending it checks out.
He also said until very recently it was his daily so that puts me at ease a bit.
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02-26-16, 10:34 AM
#8
it actually sounds like a solid ride. besides what others mentioned i cant really think of anything
Hopefully you dont run into any troubles, if you do give me a shout 443 867 4757 (i'll delete my number tomorrow) just figure it would be better than waiting on a forum reply
hopefully you're on facebook, check out the "1st gen rx7" page, you can post a question on there and have answers back in minutes. Best of luck bud! i like my gf's '79 LE more than my 85
Hopefully you dont run into any troubles, if you do give me a shout 443 867 4757 (i'll delete my number tomorrow) just figure it would be better than waiting on a forum reply
hopefully you're on facebook, check out the "1st gen rx7" page, you can post a question on there and have answers back in minutes. Best of luck bud! i like my gf's '79 LE more than my 85
02-26-16, 10:51 AM
#9
Full Member
Thread Starter
it actually sounds like a solid ride. besides what others mentioned i cant really think of anything
Hopefully you dont run into any troubles, if you do give me a shout 443 867 4757 (i'll delete my number tomorrow) just figure it would be better than waiting on a forum reply
hopefully you're on facebook, check out the "1st gen rx7" page, you can post a question on there and have answers back in minutes. Best of luck bud! i like my gf's '79 LE more than my 85
Hopefully you dont run into any troubles, if you do give me a shout 443 867 4757 (i'll delete my number tomorrow) just figure it would be better than waiting on a forum reply
hopefully you're on facebook, check out the "1st gen rx7" page, you can post a question on there and have answers back in minutes. Best of luck bud! i like my gf's '79 LE more than my 85
You are awesome! Thank you so much man! I am on one Facebook page but probably the wrong one because most of what Is posted Is FDs
02-26-16, 02:10 PM
#11
Full Member
Thread Starter
So my initial impression so far (only drove it down the street and back and am now waiting for the rental company to take me back to the car).
The body is in great shape with only minor surface rust in spare tire well/rear hatch area and rockers. No pin holes, no places that feel weak, and there is even some antirust agent still on the underbody.
I have no other sa to compare it to but the brakes are essentially non existent, steering feels very loose on center, and the clutch/brake pedal feel is very spongy or weak. Throttle apparently has newer spring and is pretty stiff which is good.
Being bridgeported I assume is the reason it is fairly difficult to drive below 3k rpm. No smoke on start up or while running but it does take a good while to get warmed up. All the guages appear to function, all the interior pieces are there (some vents cracked and dash has one crack in center) and it is missing minor things like plastic over rear view mirror and whatever went below tape deck area. Otherwise. I'm about to hit the road! Keep your fingers crossed and I will post some pics tonight if all goes well!
The body is in great shape with only minor surface rust in spare tire well/rear hatch area and rockers. No pin holes, no places that feel weak, and there is even some antirust agent still on the underbody.
I have no other sa to compare it to but the brakes are essentially non existent, steering feels very loose on center, and the clutch/brake pedal feel is very spongy or weak. Throttle apparently has newer spring and is pretty stiff which is good.
Being bridgeported I assume is the reason it is fairly difficult to drive below 3k rpm. No smoke on start up or while running but it does take a good while to get warmed up. All the guages appear to function, all the interior pieces are there (some vents cracked and dash has one crack in center) and it is missing minor things like plastic over rear view mirror and whatever went below tape deck area. Otherwise. I'm about to hit the road! Keep your fingers crossed and I will post some pics tonight if all goes well!
02-26-16, 02:17 PM
#12
Full Member
Thread Starter
So my initial impression so far (only drove it down the street and back and am now waiting for the rental company to take me back to the car).
The body is in great shape with only minor surface rust in spare tire well/rear hatch area and rockers. No pin holes, no places that feel weak, and there is even some antirust agent still on the underbody.
I have no other sa to compare it to but the brakes are essentially non existent, steering feels very loose on center, and the clutch/brake pedal feel is very spongy or weak. Throttle apparently has newer spring and is pretty stiff which is good.
Being bridgeported I assume is the reason it is fairly difficult to drive below 3k rpm. No smoke on start up or while running but it does take a good while to get warmed up. All the guages appear to function, all the interior pieces are there (some vents cracked and dash has one crack in center) and it is missing minor things like plastic over rear view mirror and whatever went below tape deck area. Otherwise. I'm about to hit the road! Keep your fingers crossed and I will post some pics tonight if all goes well!
The body is in great shape with only minor surface rust in spare tire well/rear hatch area and rockers. No pin holes, no places that feel weak, and there is even some antirust agent still on the underbody.
I have no other sa to compare it to but the brakes are essentially non existent, steering feels very loose on center, and the clutch/brake pedal feel is very spongy or weak. Throttle apparently has newer spring and is pretty stiff which is good.
Being bridgeported I assume is the reason it is fairly difficult to drive below 3k rpm. No smoke on start up or while running but it does take a good while to get warmed up. All the guages appear to function, all the interior pieces are there (some vents cracked and dash has one crack in center) and it is missing minor things like plastic over rear view mirror and whatever went below tape deck area. Otherwise. I'm about to hit the road! Keep your fingers crossed and I will post some pics tonight if all goes well!
Last edited by NISxMO; 02-26-16 at 04:16 PM. Reason: Double
02-27-16, 01:33 AM
#13
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02-27-16, 05:19 AM
#14
The loose steering and spongy brakes are normal. You can bring the brakes back to life with new shoes and drums in the rear a as well as new braided stainless brake hoses. There are three that should be replaced. Check the pad thickness int he front as well as the remaining thickness of the front rotors. The car may need brakes all around.
The spongy clutch pedal is likely due to worn hydraulics. Replace the clutch master and slave cylinders as well as the clutch hose.
How'd you fare on the ride home? Any pics?
The spongy clutch pedal is likely due to worn hydraulics. Replace the clutch master and slave cylinders as well as the clutch hose.
How'd you fare on the ride home? Any pics?
02-27-16, 08:16 AM
#16
Full Member
Thread Starter
Well, We made it back in one piece! I originally started taking pictures to document the entirety of the journey but that only lasted for all about 5 photos and only two on the way down turned out any good 
(2 of the rental van that is) haha.
Originally when I found the car my plan was to rent a car hauler from Uhaul and tow her home. Unfortunately Uhaul wont allow soft top Jeeps to tow (even though it is a 4 door) and renting a truck and trailer was going to cost in the ball park of $300.
Long story short, after my brother bailed on coming with me, I pulled some strings with my Enterprise friends and got them to rent me a mini cargo van one way for $35....So begins the idea to drive down and drive back in the car; tools, oil, etc. in hand.
By the way, I'm also big into motorcycles and if I ended up doing some trackdays or, for some extremely odd reason, went across country not actually riding the bike then I could totally own one of these. Great gas mileage, drove wonderfully, and the perfect amount of space in the back for a bike and some camp gear. Anyway above image was my first stop for gas and a biscuit.... 7:30am
I made it all the way down to Daytona before I had to make another potty break and grab some more water....(I tend to drink a lot....causing me to pee a lot....causing me to drink more and doubling the time is takes for the trip haha). Stopping at lady Loves!
Long story short I eventually made it to Kissimmee Florida. I was hoping to get the car for closer to $3,000. Ended up having to pay the original $3,500 so I had to stop by the bank before meeting with the car. As I did not know the area well I ended up going 15-20 miles out of the way beforehand which pushed back meeting him to around 1:30pm. As far as price is concerned what do you guys think?
Below is the original ad I found on craigslist as well as some photos he sent me of the vehicle after it was detailed. I will be sure to take some myself this weekend! (hopefully today)
From an exterior perspective the only real issue I saw was the paint on the sunroof has absolutely zero clear. PO said he had it painted but he felt he got jipped on a shabby job as the aftermath is evident. This car was not garaged so I cant hardly blame the paint job baking in the hot Florida sun. He said the trim obviously goes grey from being 35 years old but there is some "Trim restore" in the car he applied and it looks perfect fine right now. Only rust I could see was a minor quarter size spot on the rear hatch which is causing the paint to bubble otherwise most everything else appears to be very minor surface rust in obvious areas.
The rear spare tire well was moist but he said none of the glass or seals leak so I will have to look into that. (I believe him too because the carpet and interior are overall in great shape without any watermarks or mold smells) Below are some pictures he text me before I made the journey...
The interior is almost fully there. The center trim bezel has obviously been repainted or the original paint is severely bubbling so I will have to deal with that. The headlight switch is the only switch currently working on the center console. I haven't put any research into it yet but I assume one is a defroster which he said has been disconnected. Not sure what the other one is for.... The A/C and heat has obviously been removed with the engine build but the switch panel still exists along with an aftermarket head unit which will be pulled out. No power to the cigarette lighter. The dash does have a crack in it right in the center (extremely disappointing to me because from the pictures I was absolutely HOPING AND PRAYING it was whole, but oh well...how many 40 year old cars have absolutely no cracks in the dash) Otherwise the dash looks new even.
All of the switches on the steering column seem to function including the dimmer switch, clock, gauges, etc. Choke has been disconnected. AND MOST IMPORTANTLY OF ALL: the fuel gauge is completely accurate!!!!! During the trip (once it got dark and I couldn't see the needle) I did not realize the needle was resting on the E line. Luckily I was able to get to a pump and put nearly 11 gallons in the tank. BTW. What happens to these rotaries if you run out of fuel (as well as premixed oil)? Is there a fear of going Kaboom?
Two things I forgot to grab from him before I left...1. the original jack that came with the car. (The original spare tire is indeed in the trunk) and 2. the gasket he bought for the oil pan. It even had the original Motor Trend ad in the vehicle that you frequently see online.
And on to the engine.... He claimed his friend was the one that rebuilt/bridgeported etc. the 12a that resides in the engine bay. The motor appears very clean but as I have never owned a 12a before I definitely have a lot of questions based on our conversation and things I am seeing in the engine bay... For instance he mentioned the tube above the dip stick use to bubble or foam so he put some kind of mini filter and hose on the top to relieve pressure. I assume this may be where you top the oil off at but I have honestly not looked close enough at the engine to know anything about it yet. I also noticed some kind of overflow line that is zip tied to the inner drivers side wheel well that I need to look more thoroughly at as well.
Anyway back to the story. The gentleman that I bought it from had to go to work. I drove the rental car to the nearest enterprise, got a ride back to the vehicle and just as I am about to FINALLY make my way back to Savannah, I realize I grabbed the dudes keys to his vehicle with mine.....Tac another hour on the trip to sort this out as well as causing me to hit rush hour in two different cities....
Long story short I made it back in once piece and am overly excited to started tearing into this car and get her properly sorted. I feel she is going to be a great base car to start working on.
The only few issues I had along the journey was operator error while trying to figure out how to turn on the headlights. (I thought flipping them up turned them on and figured they went out) and finding the right kind of premix 2 stroke oil for fill ups. (Advance Auto only seems to carry synthetic blends) THANK YOU CHRIS FOR NOT ALLOWING ME TO MAKE THAT MISTAKE!!!!!
Now on to one very important question..... When I let off the throttle throughout the trip initially I felt somewhat of a knock. My gut was telling me it had something to do with the driveshaft but it also could be suspension/exhaust related. As the journey progressed I was hearing something that sounded almost like tire rub but then it grew more persistent....I check all the tires/wheel wheels and up under the car to see if there was anything dragging/rubbing. Everything looked ok which is leading me back to my original idea that it is driveshaft related and as the journey progressed it could have been on its way out.... I won't know anything until I can get her on a jack though and start diving in.
Other thing, the kid was right the oil pan is definitely leaking. Which is better than the rear main seal (my original thought). The underside of the car is black but no oil has been lost according to the dip stick and there wasn't any in the driveway when I woke up this morning. Its either leaking slowly or there is a small drip elsewhere. I will let you know for sure once it's discovered but Im pretty sure its the pan.
The kid I bought it from has been texting me every step of the way with advice, brands of oil, ways to run and drive the car, weights of oil to use etc. and everything he has said or done has been consistent with what I have read on the forums. From that perspective I feel comfortable making the purchase from him.
(2 of the rental van that is) haha.Originally when I found the car my plan was to rent a car hauler from Uhaul and tow her home. Unfortunately Uhaul wont allow soft top Jeeps to tow (even though it is a 4 door) and renting a truck and trailer was going to cost in the ball park of $300.
Long story short, after my brother bailed on coming with me, I pulled some strings with my Enterprise friends and got them to rent me a mini cargo van one way for $35....So begins the idea to drive down and drive back in the car; tools, oil, etc. in hand.
By the way, I'm also big into motorcycles and if I ended up doing some trackdays or, for some extremely odd reason, went across country not actually riding the bike then I could totally own one of these. Great gas mileage, drove wonderfully, and the perfect amount of space in the back for a bike and some camp gear. Anyway above image was my first stop for gas and a biscuit.... 7:30am
I made it all the way down to Daytona before I had to make another potty break and grab some more water....(I tend to drink a lot....causing me to pee a lot....causing me to drink more and doubling the time is takes for the trip haha). Stopping at lady Loves!
Long story short I eventually made it to Kissimmee Florida. I was hoping to get the car for closer to $3,000. Ended up having to pay the original $3,500 so I had to stop by the bank before meeting with the car. As I did not know the area well I ended up going 15-20 miles out of the way beforehand which pushed back meeting him to around 1:30pm. As far as price is concerned what do you guys think?
Below is the original ad I found on craigslist as well as some photos he sent me of the vehicle after it was detailed. I will be sure to take some myself this weekend! (hopefully today)
From an exterior perspective the only real issue I saw was the paint on the sunroof has absolutely zero clear. PO said he had it painted but he felt he got jipped on a shabby job as the aftermath is evident. This car was not garaged so I cant hardly blame the paint job baking in the hot Florida sun. He said the trim obviously goes grey from being 35 years old but there is some "Trim restore" in the car he applied and it looks perfect fine right now. Only rust I could see was a minor quarter size spot on the rear hatch which is causing the paint to bubble otherwise most everything else appears to be very minor surface rust in obvious areas.
The rear spare tire well was moist but he said none of the glass or seals leak so I will have to look into that. (I believe him too because the carpet and interior are overall in great shape without any watermarks or mold smells) Below are some pictures he text me before I made the journey...
The interior is almost fully there. The center trim bezel has obviously been repainted or the original paint is severely bubbling so I will have to deal with that. The headlight switch is the only switch currently working on the center console. I haven't put any research into it yet but I assume one is a defroster which he said has been disconnected. Not sure what the other one is for.... The A/C and heat has obviously been removed with the engine build but the switch panel still exists along with an aftermarket head unit which will be pulled out. No power to the cigarette lighter. The dash does have a crack in it right in the center (extremely disappointing to me because from the pictures I was absolutely HOPING AND PRAYING it was whole, but oh well...how many 40 year old cars have absolutely no cracks in the dash) Otherwise the dash looks new even.
All of the switches on the steering column seem to function including the dimmer switch, clock, gauges, etc. Choke has been disconnected. AND MOST IMPORTANTLY OF ALL: the fuel gauge is completely accurate!!!!! During the trip (once it got dark and I couldn't see the needle) I did not realize the needle was resting on the E line. Luckily I was able to get to a pump and put nearly 11 gallons in the tank. BTW. What happens to these rotaries if you run out of fuel (as well as premixed oil)? Is there a fear of going Kaboom?
Two things I forgot to grab from him before I left...1. the original jack that came with the car. (The original spare tire is indeed in the trunk) and 2. the gasket he bought for the oil pan. It even had the original Motor Trend ad in the vehicle that you frequently see online.
And on to the engine.... He claimed his friend was the one that rebuilt/bridgeported etc. the 12a that resides in the engine bay. The motor appears very clean but as I have never owned a 12a before I definitely have a lot of questions based on our conversation and things I am seeing in the engine bay... For instance he mentioned the tube above the dip stick use to bubble or foam so he put some kind of mini filter and hose on the top to relieve pressure. I assume this may be where you top the oil off at but I have honestly not looked close enough at the engine to know anything about it yet. I also noticed some kind of overflow line that is zip tied to the inner drivers side wheel well that I need to look more thoroughly at as well.
Anyway back to the story. The gentleman that I bought it from had to go to work. I drove the rental car to the nearest enterprise, got a ride back to the vehicle and just as I am about to FINALLY make my way back to Savannah, I realize I grabbed the dudes keys to his vehicle with mine.....Tac another hour on the trip to sort this out as well as causing me to hit rush hour in two different cities....
Long story short I made it back in once piece and am overly excited to started tearing into this car and get her properly sorted. I feel she is going to be a great base car to start working on.
The only few issues I had along the journey was operator error while trying to figure out how to turn on the headlights. (I thought flipping them up turned them on and figured they went out) and finding the right kind of premix 2 stroke oil for fill ups. (Advance Auto only seems to carry synthetic blends) THANK YOU CHRIS FOR NOT ALLOWING ME TO MAKE THAT MISTAKE!!!!!
Now on to one very important question..... When I let off the throttle throughout the trip initially I felt somewhat of a knock. My gut was telling me it had something to do with the driveshaft but it also could be suspension/exhaust related. As the journey progressed I was hearing something that sounded almost like tire rub but then it grew more persistent....I check all the tires/wheel wheels and up under the car to see if there was anything dragging/rubbing. Everything looked ok which is leading me back to my original idea that it is driveshaft related and as the journey progressed it could have been on its way out.... I won't know anything until I can get her on a jack though and start diving in.
Other thing, the kid was right the oil pan is definitely leaking. Which is better than the rear main seal (my original thought). The underside of the car is black but no oil has been lost according to the dip stick and there wasn't any in the driveway when I woke up this morning. Its either leaking slowly or there is a small drip elsewhere. I will let you know for sure once it's discovered but Im pretty sure its the pan.
The kid I bought it from has been texting me every step of the way with advice, brands of oil, ways to run and drive the car, weights of oil to use etc. and everything he has said or done has been consistent with what I have read on the forums. From that perspective I feel comfortable making the purchase from him.
02-27-16, 10:26 AM
#17
Congrauts on your Limited score and successful trip home. As you found out, that headlight switch on the center console is to just raise the lights w/o turning them on. (for cleaning?) That third switch is to raise and lower the power antenna. Looks like the door panels have been replaced at some point, LE's had grey velour inserts in the middle of the doors and seats. The window crank is a later model too. 79's were all black w/no silver centers. Did you get the wind deflector? 79 sunroof cars came with a storage bag for the roof and a wind deflector that you snapped into place after removing the roof panel.
02-27-16, 10:36 AM
#18
Full Member
Thread Starter
Banzai, I did not receive any wind deflector. I will be sure to ask the person that sold it to me as he seemed to have forgotten to give me multiple things. I'm hoping to take pictures of the imperfections as well to see value wise if it was a smart purchase or if I should have walked. I know if you wait long enough these can be found pretty mint for not much coin (maybe not LE's but most sa or fbs)
After driving it this morning, I'm thinking the loud "rubbing or grindingish" noise could be the diff? It sounded like it was coming more from the rear end then mid car. I still have yet to get this up on a jack because my friend currently has mine. I may go buy another anyway but it looks like I'll be letting it sit for a bit to get some things sorted.
Also vibration wise, what are these bridgeported engines typically like? I feel like this 12a wants to shoot out the front lol the whole care shakes, rattles, and rolls.
Any just out of curiosity anyway know the idea cruising rpm's? It seems at 3,000 it runs like boo boo, 4-5k a little rough and 6 is when its at its smoothest....I'm sure cruising at 6k all the time is a little high?
If anyone reading this is in the Savannah area with an sa or even a 12a fb I would be interested to drive it so I have something to compare it to. Especially if it is bridgeported
After driving it this morning, I'm thinking the loud "rubbing or grindingish" noise could be the diff? It sounded like it was coming more from the rear end then mid car. I still have yet to get this up on a jack because my friend currently has mine. I may go buy another anyway but it looks like I'll be letting it sit for a bit to get some things sorted.
Also vibration wise, what are these bridgeported engines typically like? I feel like this 12a wants to shoot out the front lol the whole care shakes, rattles, and rolls.
Any just out of curiosity anyway know the idea cruising rpm's? It seems at 3,000 it runs like boo boo, 4-5k a little rough and 6 is when its at its smoothest....I'm sure cruising at 6k all the time is a little high?
If anyone reading this is in the Savannah area with an sa or even a 12a fb I would be interested to drive it so I have something to compare it to. Especially if it is bridgeported
Last edited by NISxMO; 02-28-16 at 07:01 AM.
02-28-16, 12:11 AM
#19
84SE-EGI helpy-helperton
Universal joints will give the impression of the car trying to pull itself apart (rear), and will be undriveable in short order due to vibration. When the front joint goes out, it will be better or worse under acceleration or coasting in gear, with less vibration. When my rear joint went out, it sounded and felt like someone was hammering on the back bumper with a framing hammer, and the vibration was unbearable.
Cruising RPM for most rotary engines will be in the 3-4k RPM range cruising at freeway speeds. Find the right gear to keep it about there for best fuel economy and interior sound. Running at 6k all day isn't going to help mpg or be very comfortable to drive, as the engine/trans will be pulling at every little throttle variation. Shifting into the next gear smooths things out considerably.
Cruising RPM for most rotary engines will be in the 3-4k RPM range cruising at freeway speeds. Find the right gear to keep it about there for best fuel economy and interior sound. Running at 6k all day isn't going to help mpg or be very comfortable to drive, as the engine/trans will be pulling at every little throttle variation. Shifting into the next gear smooths things out considerably.
02-28-16, 08:15 AM
#20
Full Member
Thread Starter
Thanks LongDuck, I'll look into that as well. The vibrations throughout the car are definitely severe but I thought it was more so the engine than whatever is going on in the rear.
Here is a video I took attempting to catch the sound. I know its poor quality and sounds like static but that is actually the noise the car is making. Watch it all the way through as I put in the clutch towards the end.
I dont know if the poor quality will help determine the sound or not but it is extremely loud.\\\
Here is a video I took attempting to catch the sound. I know its poor quality and sounds like static but that is actually the noise the car is making. Watch it all the way through as I put in the clutch towards the end.
I dont know if the poor quality will help determine the sound or not but it is extremely loud.\\\
02-29-16, 05:07 AM
#21
Beautiful Limited model!! You did well.
In regards to the oil pan, Mazda did not sue an oil pan gasket. They simply used a grey RTV type of sealant. You can still buy the sealant from the dealer and it will seal any leak provided the surfaces are clean and dry.
I would however spray the front cover and oil pan down with brake clean until they are spotless. Take the car for a short trip and recheck the leak. Chances are the front cover is the culprit or is contributing to the oil leak. Pretty common.
In regards to the oil pan, Mazda did not sue an oil pan gasket. They simply used a grey RTV type of sealant. You can still buy the sealant from the dealer and it will seal any leak provided the surfaces are clean and dry.
I would however spray the front cover and oil pan down with brake clean until they are spotless. Take the car for a short trip and recheck the leak. Chances are the front cover is the culprit or is contributing to the oil leak. Pretty common.
02-29-16, 08:25 AM
#22
Waffles - hmmm good
iTrader: (1)
A BP is going to be rough and not have power until you get up to at least 5K. That noise in
the video seems like rear end noise to me but its hard to tell. If the ujoints seem tight I would
make sure theres oil in the rear end and also do you know if its an LSD or not?
the video seems like rear end noise to me but its hard to tell. If the ujoints seem tight I would
make sure theres oil in the rear end and also do you know if its an LSD or not?
02-29-16, 09:50 AM
#23
Full Member
Thread Starter
Ill definitely get it cleaned up and look into the leak. I believe i checked the front cover when i first noticed it and the oil leak definitely started by the pan....then again i still havent had it on a jack yet to look at it throughly. Thanks for the advice on the sealant!
As for the differential, I didnt realise LSD was an option for this year so i assumed it was a factory good ole fashion diff but i will look into that as well!
As for the differential, I didnt realise LSD was an option for this year so i assumed it was a factory good ole fashion diff but i will look into that as well!
