MountainScreamer

Alright guys, I just put the 12a together and put the flywheel on. Whenever I try to turn the engine it turns a little way and then stops COMPLETLEY. It looks like it tries to stop when an apex seal in the front rotor nears the exhaust port.
Here's what I think might be the culprit:
Water seal got pushed out and the rotor tries to go over it and gets stuck.
Corner peice on apex seal gets stuck somehow near exhaust port.
Corner peice gets stuck at intake port.
oil control ring not seated properly...
I'm just shooting in the dark and thought someone might have had a similar problem.

The engine was assembled using vaseline and oil if that helps.
Either way I'm gonna tear down the engine and see what's wrong. No point in ignoring it and having to pull it out of the car for being lazy.

Please, somebody has to know something.
Thanks.

Latin270

Yea vasoline will cause the seals to expand. Sucks but really your better off taking her apart and doing it right. Good luck.

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

Rear rotor is probably upside down. Seen it happen before and it almost happened to me once.

I don't use vaseline anymore. A little wheel bearing grease holds the coolant seals in just fine, and I use oil as an assembly lube.

MountainScreamer

Ok, I took it apart and found the outer water seal inbetween the front rotor housing and intermediate plate got sqeezed into oblivion
Thanks, Latin270 I didn't know the thing about the vaseline, I guess I'll use Hylomar since I have some.

Thankfully, the rear rotor wasn't upside down. I guess I checked everything but the water seal. I wish I had been more careful.
Oh well, I'll just have to order another one and get back to it.
Thanks guys!

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

You might want to order four new black coolant seals since they all have expanded from the vaseline. My bro's RX-4 engine had that happen. It was the product of too many cooks in the kitchen. Basically I let my bro help in the stacking process and as a result it took longer than usual to get everything stacked, and this gave time for the coolant seals to grow. One of the coolant seals got pinched and allowed coolant to leak outside and even down into the oil pan, mixing with the oil. Yep the engine was in and even ran briefly. Some coolant had mixed into the oil. I never used vaseline again. Never had a coolant seal problem again either.

Rxxx-7_GSL-SE

^^^^

That is exactly why when i rebuild my engines (only did 2 so far) i brush a light coat of sealant on the coolant landings, and make sure 110% before stacking the plates on that the seals are going to go on properly.

I found it impossible to keep it falling out of the landing without some sort of sealant. ya i tried vasiline doesn't work really well for me.

djessence

Good info guys, definetly something i wouldnt have thought of

MountainScreamer

So would you say Hylomar would be a good candidate to hold the seals in?

Jeezus

iTrader: (4)

Yes.

djessence

Its what all the engine builders use and recommend

MmSadda

iTrader: (2)

Look at Rotary Resurrection's rebuilding thread. Oh, wait.....

1stgenNutt

iTrader: (3)

I always use hylomar on water jacket seals . just use vasoline on the corner seals and control seals on the rotor it self . another trick i learned from Dan Atkins to hold the assist piece on the apex was super glue keeps the bugger from jumping out .the heat burns it off the first time you start the motor . Not epoxy or jb weld I feel i must clarify.

MountainScreamer

Thanks Curtis. I did super glue the apex seal assist piece in, I remember you saying that. I hope to get this thing running and then once it's past it's inital check take a trip to see ya!

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

Mazda stopped including the assist piece with their new apex seals some time ago. You guys are thinking of something else.

gsl-se addict

iTrader: (3)

They are talking about the apex seal corner piece (triangular piece).

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

Exactly. The assist piece was a small piece of something (rubber or paperboard) either included in a strip which you had to cut with an x-acto knife and glue to the bottom of the apex seal, or it came from Mazda already glued on. Mazda stopped doing this by the early '90s. My friend has a set of 12A apex seals with an assist piece affixed to them.

I've never used nor ever needed an assist piece.

MountainScreamer

Sorry for using the wrong terminology guys. I was talking about the little triangular piece. By the way, new seals are on the way! They should be here Tuesday, Then I'll continue and hopefully have it all running by the weekend