pilot bearing removing tool
#1
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pilot bearing removing tool
i suspect the one in my gsl-se has worn out so i will need to change a new one
do i need the tool that mazdatrix selling or i can use a regular pilot bearing puller to do the job
plz let me know thx
do i need the tool that mazdatrix selling or i can use a regular pilot bearing puller to do the job
plz let me know thx
#3
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I have the MAZDA pilot bearing puller/installer tool that is called for in the FSM. I'm only an hour away. send an e-mail if interested. shadowlife25@sbcglobal.net
#5
Originally Posted by Brianhsval
Damn puller didn't help me at all, get a dremal and cut it out. Faster and easier.
You could also use the TP method!
#6
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the engine bolts... the one that sits closest to the slave cylinder on the top or the engine..its about 4 inches long... you have removed it already in removing your transmission... stick the nut in the hole and slightly turn it cockeyed locking it inside the pilot bearing... thread the bolt into the cockeyed nut inside of the bearing.. as you ratchet it and the nut slowly slides out... so does the pilot bearing. Trust me, crap on the pilot bearing removal tool. I have one too. never used it, give me your address and ill send the pos to you.
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#9
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We just dremmeled and chiseled one that had come apart out of my tan 84 GSL this week, it had pretty much become one with the eccentric shaft. I was a little worried about beating and drilling on the eccentric shaft, not having done it before, but the blind end shaft turned out clean and the new bearing fit in nice and snug. Getting that bearing out took about 3 hours but it seemed like 8. Will the removal tool pull the bearing out after the front of the bearing casing has disintegrated and all the rollers have fallen out?
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#10
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Puller
Originally Posted by wackyracer
there is no substitute for a nice snap-on pilot bearing puller. but its $$$$$$$
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#12
Originally Posted by HighwayRacer
the engine bolts... the one that sits closest to the slave cylinder on the top or the engine..its about 4 inches long... you have removed it already in removing your transmission... stick the nut in the hole and slightly turn it cockeyed locking it inside the pilot bearing... thread the bolt into the cockeyed nut inside of the bearing.. as you ratchet it and the nut slowly slides out... so does the pilot bearing. Trust me, crap on the pilot bearing removal tool. I have one too. never used it, give me your address and ill send the pos to you.
I just tried it...didn't work. That nut is shouldered and does not lock itself into the pilot bearing.
What they say about the snap-on is dead-on. I was spoiled by one, my neighbor had his handy the first two times I did the job, and I've had to go without one since. Even with the extra work, I can't seem to talk myself into spending that much on a specialized tool.
#14
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http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...temnumber=4876
Is 12mm small enough to get past the bearing, or is that where grinding the puller teeth down comes into play? Would this style of puller work, or is the slide-hammer type--
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/w...90161&R=390161
--needed?
Is 12mm small enough to get past the bearing, or is that where grinding the puller teeth down comes into play? Would this style of puller work, or is the slide-hammer type--
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/w...90161&R=390161
--needed?
#15
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When we did mine last week, the bearing was broken and all the rollers had fallen out, leaving the thin metal sleave tight against the eccentric shaft. I don't think any kind of puller could have gotten this out because there wan't enough left to grab onto. We ended up grinding down a half inch drill bit (the only thing hard enough to stand up to the hardened bearing metal) at a sharp angle to use as a chisle to get under the lip of the bracket sleave and wacked the thing out. This took some time but knowing how to do it would make it easier if I have to do this again. But if the bearing is still intact, I'd find a puller.
#16
Burning Oil-Grinding 3rd
Originally Posted by ray green
When we did mine last week, the bearing was broken and all the rollers had fallen out, leaving the thin metal sleave tight against the eccentric shaft. I don't think any kind of puller could have gotten this out because there wan't enough left to grab onto. We ended up grinding down a half inch drill bit (the only thing hard enough to stand up to the hardened bearing metal) at a sharp angle to use as a chisle to get under the lip of the bracket sleave and wacked the thing out. This took some time but knowing how to do it would make it easier if I have to do this again. But if the bearing is still intact, I'd find a puller.
#19
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iTrader: (3)
i used the pilot bearing tool and slide hammer from AutoZone, too. it took me about 5 minutes to get it out. the key is eyeballing a straight line. i was so impressed with the results that i decided to forget about buying the Mazdatrix tool in favor of just buying tools like what i rented from AutoZone (if they're less expensive), but we'll see ...
i would like to try the TP-method one of these days, just *****-n-giggles, but it should be a while before i have to do my next pilot bearing.
i just used regular grease. don't just GLOP it on though. i spread a thin coating over the needles in it with my finger and then installed the bearing.
i would like to try the TP-method one of these days, just *****-n-giggles, but it should be a while before i have to do my next pilot bearing.
Originally Posted by bliffle
Pilot bearings are hard to lube so you better get it right when you put it in. What's the best lube?
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