pilot bearing removal question
#26
Originally Posted by bliffle
What to do if the ID is munged? I guess it's easy if the engine is out: get the oversize PB and take the engine to a machinist to have the ID bored out. The adventurous might try contriving his own press and boring with a few disposable twist drills. Hmmm. At the least he'll have to hone out the ID to make it nice.
#27
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Well there's the answer to one question: all the OEM O'size PBs are gone. A guy might try to find an interchangeable part from another car or another supplier, I suppose. For a ghetto fix you could try fitting an Oilite bearing, having it machined from sintered bronze if necessary. That would be enough to get you home OK. Lots of old cars had oilite bearings before needle bearings became common.
Nice that the reamer can be run with the engine in place.
Nice that the reamer can be run with the engine in place.
#28
Senior Member
iTrader: (4)
What it takes to do the job right is an expensive reamer jig with a bronze bushing threaded onto the end of the eccentric shaft and three stages of check reamers to bore it out a little at a time. It can be done in the car and costs just a fraction of the cost of an engine rebuild (to replace the shaft), which would otherwise be the only real solution. As far as I am aware, we bought up the entire North American supply of Mazda oversized pilot bearings (there weren't that many left in the system).
I know this thread is old as hell but how much does that reamor cost? My shaft has been abused by some mickey mouse tech/backyarder. Is there a way to rent? How much is the over sized pb? thanks
#30
1st-Class Engine Janitor
iTrader: (15)
Not knowing of alternatives at the time, I invested many years back in the Mazdatrix pilot bearing tool.
Kind of glad I did, as it turns out that it doubles as a dowel pin puller when the pilot-bearing nose is removed - - exact same thread on the slide shaft as the internals of the engine dowel pins.
I've used the slide hammer portion to pull axles, too.
Kind of glad I did, as it turns out that it doubles as a dowel pin puller when the pilot-bearing nose is removed - - exact same thread on the slide shaft as the internals of the engine dowel pins.
I've used the slide hammer portion to pull axles, too.
#31
Senior Member
iTrader: (4)
Wow very sad indeed from reading posts that he had contributed to he really knew his stuff and was very helpful to us all. I emailed pineapple and they said the tool was lost in the mail. Do you think a carbide bit with a dremel would work if i use it very lightly to deburr the hole? or is that stupid?
#32
Super Moderator
iTrader: (3)
Blake was a great guy. He is certainly missed.
How bad is the eshaft? I would worry that using the Dremel would get you further into trouble. If it is just a little rough, maybe you could clean it up with the dremel drum sanding bit or something like that. It sounds like the hole is pretty trashed since you are considering boring it out and using an oversized PB, though.
If you did get the proper reamer, did Pineapple say that they had the oversized pilot? It sounds like Blake cleaned out Mazda's supply at the time. I wouldn't be surprised if you couldn't get the oversized PB even if you could ream it out.
How bad is the eshaft? I would worry that using the Dremel would get you further into trouble. If it is just a little rough, maybe you could clean it up with the dremel drum sanding bit or something like that. It sounds like the hole is pretty trashed since you are considering boring it out and using an oversized PB, though.
If you did get the proper reamer, did Pineapple say that they had the oversized pilot? It sounds like Blake cleaned out Mazda's supply at the time. I wouldn't be surprised if you couldn't get the oversized PB even if you could ream it out.
#33
Rotary Enthusiast
iTrader: (5)
Hey i removed mine with a home made puller and it worked perfect, i got a long bolt and i grinded one side down in a circular shape and left the other side intact, then i got a huge adjustable wrench i had and drilled a hole through the center and got a big nut and put the grinded bolt inside the hole of the wrench, put the nut and tightened it until it touched the flywheel and it was tight, then i just keeped on tighting that nut until it just goes pop, its out. it may be hard to understand in writting, if you dont get it let me know and maybe i can draw you a picture or make it again and take a picture to show you.
#34
Senior Member
iTrader: (4)
Blake was a great guy. He is certainly missed.
How bad is the eshaft? I would worry that using the Dremel would get you further into trouble. If it is just a little rough, maybe you could clean it up with the dremel drum sanding bit or something like that. It sounds like the hole is pretty trashed since you are considering boring it out and using an oversized PB, though.
If you did get the proper reamer, did Pineapple say that they had the oversized pilot? It sounds like Blake cleaned out Mazda's supply at the time. I wouldn't be surprised if you couldn't get the oversized PB even if you could ream it out.
How bad is the eshaft? I would worry that using the Dremel would get you further into trouble. If it is just a little rough, maybe you could clean it up with the dremel drum sanding bit or something like that. It sounds like the hole is pretty trashed since you are considering boring it out and using an oversized PB, though.
If you did get the proper reamer, did Pineapple say that they had the oversized pilot? It sounds like Blake cleaned out Mazda's supply at the time. I wouldn't be surprised if you couldn't get the oversized PB even if you could ream it out.
#35
Have RX-7, will restore
iTrader: (91)
for the easiest install, make sure the area where the pilot bearing sits is clean and burr free. grease the inside of the e-shaft where the bearing's outer race resides. tap the new bearing into place with a brass drift or use a deepwell socket. i think a 14mm works well for the job. make sure you tap it in far enough to install the new seal.
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