and make sure to keep the nut threaded on part ways so when the flywheel does pop loose it don't get damaged when it hits the floor or worse, ur foot.

 

So I went at it after work today with two propane torches and a dead-blow hammer (according to the Mazdatrix website they won't work...there goes $35.00...) and beat the **** out of the flywheels. Outside of popping the ring gear off of one of them (DOH!)....nothing... I'm going to go to O'Reilley in the morning and borrow a 3-jaw puller and see if it'll get big enough to pop them off, if not, I'll be loading them into the bed of my parents truck and taking them to Midas to have them pop them off. Soooo sick of dealing with these ******* flywheels.

 

Did you try hitting it with a regular 5 lb sledge? I have never seen one that wouldnt come off sooner or later, damn thing must be glued on somehow!!!

 

I'm going to grab our 4lb sledge in the morning and I'm going to hit (at least the broken one) hard.

 

As long as you hit it in the right place,(on the "lug" for lack of a better word) you can hit it hard.

 

Jim: 2
Kobalt-Brand 1/2" breaker bars: 0

I only took a picture of the first breaker bar that I sheared off, but here is the aftermath of 200lbs on the end of a 3' pipe while attempting to remove the flywheel nut.

 

Something neat I discovered: The front engine mount plate will bolt to the flywheel, and can be used as a flywheel stopper.

The hard part is, it's not LONG enough. But if you're working in-chassis, so the engine is attached to something that you can't flip over, you can do the old long bolt/long extension in a bolt hole trick and stop it against the engine.

I always have my 2135Ti handy, though... loosens even the most animallistically torqued flywheel nuts!

 

Lifetime warranty I hope!!

Well, did you finally get the flywheel off?

 

well duh. yes it will break a 1/2" drive. sockets big enough to fit the nut will be like 3/4" or 1" drive. after breaking a 1/2 to 3/4 adapter i started getting the right drive wrench for the socket. so yes i have several tools that i've only used 1 or 2 times.

 

I found that you can actually stick a crowbar(long end) into the space between the flywheel and the rear housing.If you make sure that the bar end rests on a Bolt face,and the other side is at the flywheel,then when you hit the crowbar(curved end) with a sledge,it will pop the flywheel off.
do one side,do the other..it will make it's way off.
IF the engine is toast then the EASY way to get a stuck flywheel off is to Put the nut on,put a piece of 2x4 over the nut face and Whack it with a sledge.it will break the flywheel free.

 

Flywheels are still attached to the engines. Didn't have time to hit them with a sledge. Maybe this weekend.

 

I have a flywheel removal tool from racing beat works like a champ but its 30 bones so you may not wanna go that route put the flywheel nut mostly on and pb blaster the bcrap out of it beetween the block and flywheel hit it with that 4 lb sledge should pop straight off and get the flywheel turned while its off or you will just torch your new clutch