So I have now installed my THIRD bad motor of the year in my FB. First motor puked an apex seal at DGRR. Second spun a bearing in my driveway while warming it up. I didn't even get this one started, and it's pissing coolant out of the sides of the block. One of my buddies from Grand Rapids said that it may be warped housings, so out this one comes. I'm going to try and cobble together one good 12a from the three cores that I have sitting around. The guy who built the current motor ($60 off of CL, so I can't complain...) said that he used all new seals, save for the apex seals.

So here is the question: I can get the front bolt off of the motors no problem (1/2" breaker bar w/ 2ft. extension of galvanized water pipe), but I can't keep the motor from spinning while trying to break free the flywheel nut. I have stood on the motor (6'4/196 pounds), have had my girlfriend (5'8 155 pounds) stand on the motor, and it still spins. I don't have easy access to an impact gun, so I'm trying to figure out a way to remove the flywheel nuts w/o one. How do you keep your motors from spinning while removing the flywheel nut?

Thanks

-Jim

BTW: I have searched.

 

http://www.mazdatrix.com/toolmisc.htm

flywheel stopper

 

chisel and hammer

then replace nut

or, use a dremmel to cut the nut, I did it once.

 

on a junk engine i cut the nut off once lol

 

I made my own flywheel stopper (1/8" steel plate, bent and drilled to hold the flywheel in place). The issue is that I can't get the motor block (the entire keg) to stop spinning. And cutting the nut off is not an option. I will take all three motors to my uncle's house (1 hour drive) and use his 1800 ft-lb 1" impact gun to remove the nuts before cutting them off.

 

How about a long piece of metal angle bolted to the front engine mounting location. You need something to get some leverage. I just took mine off with the engine in the car. Obviously no problem with the engine rotating there.

 

I have put a bolt in the flywheel with a small chain then put a bell housing botl in attatch the chain to it and the rest of the chain... chanin it down to something like a lag bolt, heavy tool chest a car rim still attached to a car.. whatever to stop it from rolling

 

racing beat used to sell two bars. both bars are probably 4' long. one bar bolts to the flywheel and then sticks out 3' the other bar has the socket on the end. so its pretty simple.

get a 3"x.250"x4 foot bar, bolt it to the flywheel, and the nut should come right off

if you don't have the long bar, you need a BIG hammer...

 

You're talking about angle iron, correct? Not just a flat piece of 1/4" stock.

 

Thats what I use, a long piece of angle iron with two holes drilled in it so you can bolt it to the flywheel where the pressure plate bolts up. Then use a long breaker bar, situate the angle iron stopper so it is against the ground so you can put your weight on the breaker bar and presto off she comes.

 

Thanks everyone. I'll do that this coming weekend.

Now the question is: To port or not to port? I'm thinking possibly a RB SP for the intake and Race port for the exhaust. But then I'll outflow my stock Nikki...

 

you dont have any local shops that have air tools u can just give 5$ and bring the motor to em??

 

That's another option. I would have to grab my brother and my parents truck to move the motors around.

 

way better than drivin a hour imho. have u tried punning them against something. Like leaning one side against a tree then puttin another motor next to it lol..or wrapping a chain aorund the motor a few times then anchoring the chain to something do it wont rotate any more after a certain point.. Ive never personally had troible just used air tools but thats probably what i would try to do.

 

I put it against a concrete wall with the oil filler tube against the wall, and the bottom pushed out before the nut broke free.

 

I have these; they work slick, because the bar you bolt to the flywheel is long enough that it rests on the floor at an acute angle; the engine doesn't try to turn if the flywheel itself is locked to the floor.

You still have to jump up and down on the far end of the wrench bar a bit, but it gets 'er done.

Mazdatrix still sells the blocking bar; just a thick slab of hot-rolled steel with holes in it.

 

We hung on the breaker bar with the engine hanging from the ceiling on a chain. That worked. Perhaps you could jack a car up far enough to pin the engine block underneath it? I've pressed bushings in this way, but bushings aren't as tall a block.

 

Take two longish bolts and screw them into the flywheel at 9 and 3 O'clock positions. Leave about an inch extending out. Take a long breaker bar and lay it across one of the bolts, and under the other, so that they jam against the bar. If the bar is long enough, that that will keep the motor from trying to roll over on you.

Anyway, that's how I do it. I could never justify paying the price for the RB tools when something as simple as this works so well.



.

 

1. Bolt large pipe to the flywheel
2. Tie engine to a horse or a rhino
3. ??????
4. Profit

 

I have done a few like this. The plywood is a little thin, but it has worked every time.

 

That will do it every time.

 

So I ended up bolting a 1/8" thick, 2"x2"x4' piece of angle iron to the flywheel, and proceeded to start snapping off 1/2" breaker bars (Kobalt brand, Lowe's, mfg. in the same facility as Craftsman, on the same line, with the same steel). Broke two before I decided to get my parents truck and take the engines to Midas and have them zip them off. I have the front bolts and flywheel nuts off, and now I can't figure out how to remove the flywheels. I hit the back of the flywheels as I spun it for about an hour, and got nowhere. I don't want to damage the flywheels, and I'm thinking about just taking it over to Midas Saturday morning before work and paying them to pop the flywheels off. Any suggestions before I pay to have them removed?

 

Heat the center of the flywheel with a propane torch, before you try to hammer it off..

 

Mazdatrix has alot of flywheel removal info on their website, even have a video showing how to ......


http://www.mazdatrix.com/pictures/fa...lywheelFAQ.mpg

If that link does not work try this one:

http://www.mazdatrix.com/faq/flywheelremoval.htm

You have to ring it like a bell, without damaging it.

Sounds like you have a stubborn one, good luck.

 

Just keep beating the hell out of it until it comes off. Don't damage the teeth, but hit it HARD.