peripheral port
#3
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do you have enough money
nah, seriously, nevarmore is right: maybe it's easier if you tell us what you know already.
Anyway, since PP will be rather different then stock, SP, or BP, you'll better look into the subject throughly.
Have you found a source for the rotor housings? Mazda Factory Racing ones are a bit pricey (understatement of the century) and RB, albeit a lot less expensive, still aren't cheap.
PP engines are generally race engines, so you might want to consider if you need one, or can get in on the road legally.
That said: you will probable be getting answers that PP isn't streetable. Well, the truth is: it depends. You can build a streetable PP, but you can also make it undriveable.
Since PP engines are often build for higher revs, clearances and wheight balancing will be more important.
The basic idea is simple: get PP housings, fill up the ports in the side housings, throw the engine together, get the correct exhaust and intake, and go. Unfortunatly, it might be slightly more diffiult in reality.
nah, seriously, nevarmore is right: maybe it's easier if you tell us what you know already.
Anyway, since PP will be rather different then stock, SP, or BP, you'll better look into the subject throughly.
Have you found a source for the rotor housings? Mazda Factory Racing ones are a bit pricey (understatement of the century) and RB, albeit a lot less expensive, still aren't cheap.
PP engines are generally race engines, so you might want to consider if you need one, or can get in on the road legally.
That said: you will probable be getting answers that PP isn't streetable. Well, the truth is: it depends. You can build a streetable PP, but you can also make it undriveable.
Since PP engines are often build for higher revs, clearances and wheight balancing will be more important.
The basic idea is simple: get PP housings, fill up the ports in the side housings, throw the engine together, get the correct exhaust and intake, and go. Unfortunatly, it might be slightly more diffiult in reality.
#4
Everything is streetable.
It just depends on how much bullshit you want to deal with to have a car that you won't be able to use fully on the road and the extra maintenance that you'll have to account for because its not just a trailered track car.
It just depends on how much bullshit you want to deal with to have a car that you won't be able to use fully on the road and the extra maintenance that you'll have to account for because its not just a trailered track car.
#5
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so what port should i use if i an going to use the stock fuel injection / i just want a sleeper. the car i usually drive is a 300zx with 400hp. i have been driving this se for about a month and have already been out run by 2 pickups. this is getting old. i would like to port it and should not have any problem doing it myself, but i do not want to need to spend a lot of $. i think between 200-250hp should be enough. ANY ADVISE?
#6
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Originally Posted by werd
so what port should i use if i an going to use the stock fuel injection / i just want a sleeper. the car i usually drive is a 300zx with 400hp. i have been driving this se for about a month and have already been out run by 2 pickups. this is getting old. i would like to port it and should not have any problem doing it myself, but i do not want to need to spend a lot of $. i think between 200-250hp should be enough. ANY ADVISE?
#7
You really do need money if your going PP haha. I think a good setup is going to run you $10,000 when your done, and you'll need to be ready for rebuilds. Heh, there is some crazy *** fuel injection stuff made for PP though, like 8 injectors for methanol and what not, crazy stuff.
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#8
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FORGET the pp! i have read that an extended prot can make pretty good hp numbers. i will be doing headers at the same time i port it. i already have a bonez intake on mine. what do you think about extended porting?
#9
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A good street port will make 200HP and be much better mannered. You do not need PP or turbo for that modest amount. Get a good TBI system and computer. You will be slower with a PP because of more frequent fuel stops.
#10
love the braaaap
Your right in forgeting about the P-port. I researched them a LOT and I would never drive a p-port engine on the road. They idle at 2000 rpm, are very hard to drive, and REALLY suck the gas in. I'm talking about 8 mpg on the highway, mabey 4mpg in the city. Your better off to go with a turbo. Thats the only other option really to get the power you want.
Most street port jobs make about 200 hp at the flywheel. 200 hp is a lot in a 7, but will still feel nothing like your 400 hp 300zx. If you want to get to 250-275, which will put you in the same league as the new SVT mustang, you will need to either go with a bridgeport or custom turbo.
Most street port jobs make about 200 hp at the flywheel. 200 hp is a lot in a 7, but will still feel nothing like your 400 hp 300zx. If you want to get to 250-275, which will put you in the same league as the new SVT mustang, you will need to either go with a bridgeport or custom turbo.
Last edited by 85rotarypower; 09-14-04 at 08:57 PM.
#11
FB+FC=F-ME
The supporting mods needed to take reliable advantage of the PP's powerband.
stationary gears
engine bearings
balancing
tranny bearings
clutch
flywheel
apex seals
reduction pullies
EFI/carb
full exhaust
LOOUUDD!!
In stock form,few (if any) of these items will work well at 8500-10,000rpms where the PP is working best.Drive a PP at rpms where they will work without major mods,and youll not be making real PP power.Might as well run a big streetport or half bridgeport and keep your torque curve flatter....
stationary gears
engine bearings
balancing
tranny bearings
clutch
flywheel
apex seals
reduction pullies
EFI/carb
full exhaust
LOOUUDD!!
In stock form,few (if any) of these items will work well at 8500-10,000rpms where the PP is working best.Drive a PP at rpms where they will work without major mods,and youll not be making real PP power.Might as well run a big streetport or half bridgeport and keep your torque curve flatter....
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