does the OMP need to be drained or breathe?

in other words, if i were to stick a 1 way valve in my omp lines would it **** the OMP?

quick background, my oem omp lines broke, so i replaced with bigger fish tank lines and have worked great specially in winter all i've had to do is add a bit of 2 cycle into the gas so that i can safely cold start it. but that seems to hurt my plugs once all the oil catches up in the lines. i could not add oil and just hold the lever all the way up while the car warms up, but here lately it's been raining like crazy in NC ....
so i figured 2, 1 way valves would solve the problem lol. i just wanna make sure it wont hurt the OMP not to be able to breathe and the oil to go back down the lines, i'm sure someone's done this before...?

 

why do you want a check valve in there. the stockers did not have one.

 

i know, but i don't have stockers anymore, i have larger oil lines, forgot the actual size, but they're slightly bigger than the stockers and they drain faster, specially when its hot outside.

 

nah, I dont think you need it. you should be fine as long as it doesnt leak. Im using a GSL-SE/S4 OMP wherein I reduced the lines from 4 to 2 using a tee or wye. here's what I got.

 

see, you still have the OEM thickness through out which those do pretty good at holding some of the pressure so the oil doesn't drain back....i believe mine are 1/4" (3/16" maybe) inside diameter, which causes the oil to drain faster. sometimes i don't drive my car in the weekends so after it sits in the hot for two days the oil will often be halfway on the lines and i hate to run my engine that long before the oil gets back into the carb . . . i don't know if i'm making sense here..

 

Edgar, go to Lowes or HomeDepot and get the weedwacker/chainsaw generic clear
gas lines in the lawn and garden mower repair section. Its almost the same inner
diameter as the OEM hard plastic tubes and fits on the tubes and the barbs real
tight. Its like 2 or 3 bucks for 2 ft sections.

I just replaced the rubber hoses from the top of my OMP lines to the carb with this
stuff and its working great. I can show you at our next meet. You coming to the dyno day in Mooresville? I can show you there. I also have some leftover that I'm planning on using to replace the OEM lower rubber hoses from the OMP to the hard lines.

 

that's what i got, they work great, but i hate the fact that since i have no garage, it gets hot and the oil drains faster, but when its cool outside i have no problem, hardly even drains itself.

i haven't driven it since saturday, the hottest it has been is high 70s where i live, as you can tell, the oil stays put pretty well



but if gets to be high 80's just over night it'd have drained halfway. i figured a simple check valve would work great and i'd have no problems, just wanted to make sure that the lack of air pressure going back to the omp wouldn't hurt the omp itself. simple logic says it wouldn't and it would help in any case, but i'm no expert lol


and i don't know if i'll make it to the Dyno day. I might ride down there with Long, but not sure yet, funds are pretty low right now.

 

run it over the t-stat neck. this will ensure that some oil will remain in the line before the carb.

 

that is a possibility, i didn't know how these hoses would handle heat tho, i've got them a bit loose where they don't touch anything so its just w/e heat comes off the engine. i doubt anything would happen if i do run them over the T-stat, only one way to find out

 

The hoses I got from Lowes are much smaller than what I see in your pictures. The smallest aquarium hose I could find was like 3/8. My hoses are I think 3/16" ID. I'd have to measure to verify it. Don't think the package said on it.

 

lol, mine didn't say either, it's like 1/4 or 3/16, i'm leaning more towards the 1/4.

i got them off some guy at a flea market who was selling lawn mower stuff, it was the smallest he had, i got like 10' for 2 dollars lol