is it ok to rev while at full choke?
#1
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is it ok to rev while at full choke?
guys how long would be the safest time to wait until i can take the car for a spin.... like when i first start it in the morning..
is it also safe to rev while at full choke?
thanx heaps guys
is it also safe to rev while at full choke?
thanx heaps guys
#2
Never Follow
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well, if by rev you mean get on it and drive aggressive i would wait like 20 mins at least. but to just drive you can do instantly. It was 14 degrees the other morning and i was runnig late so i didn't have time to warm it up at all. got it, shut door, seat belt on, started and off i went. Its fine as long as you take it really easy.
#4
Blood, Sweat and Rotors
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local motor builder said the most engine wear occurs when the motor is warming up. our motors are made of aluminum, steel, and cast iron. those dissimilar metals warm up and expand at different rates. changing tolerances along the way to warmed up. 'the metals need time to gel' his exact words. you really should wait until the water temp is at 160 degrees before driving it. ALL the local racers i talk to say that. i wait until the water gauge needle is on the lower horizontal line before taking parking brake off. and baby it till at full temp. no more than half throttle.
it's your motor, not mine!
-bp-
it's your motor, not mine!
-bp-
#6
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Originally posted by DriveFast7
local motor builder said the most engine wear occurs when the motor is warming up. our motors are made of aluminum, steel, and cast iron. those dissimilar metals warm up and expand at different rates. changing tolerances along the way to warmed up. 'the metals need time to gel' his exact words. you really should wait until the water temp is at 160 degrees before driving it. ALL the local racers i talk to say that. i wait until the water gauge needle is on the lower horizontal line before taking parking brake off. and baby it till at full temp. no more than half throttle.
it's your motor, not mine!
-bp-
local motor builder said the most engine wear occurs when the motor is warming up. our motors are made of aluminum, steel, and cast iron. those dissimilar metals warm up and expand at different rates. changing tolerances along the way to warmed up. 'the metals need time to gel' his exact words. you really should wait until the water temp is at 160 degrees before driving it. ALL the local racers i talk to say that. i wait until the water gauge needle is on the lower horizontal line before taking parking brake off. and baby it till at full temp. no more than half throttle.
it's your motor, not mine!
-bp-
This is called heat stress, expanding metal due to increasing temperature. In a nuclear power plant, thermal stresses coupled with actual stresses due to pressure are huge concerns, and to mitigate it we power the reactor up and down in stages in order to alleviate the stresses. Except for the cooling down stage for my car when I reach my destination, I power up my car in stages too. I start it and let it warm for about 5-7 minutes with the choke on while I go back inside and brush my teeth and kiss the wife and daughter goodbye, then I drive off down the block easy, never exceeding 1/4 throttle. I gradually progress to increased throttle use as the temperature comes up, and by the time I reach the highway its fully warm, just in time to get on it to merge into the traffic for my 15 mile run out to the plant.
#7
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Realistically, if you take it easy on the motor and don't rev it fast or over 2.5k, you should not be creating any more wear than if you warm it up stationary. Of course if the temp is any colder than 14F, or in Soviet Canukistan, -10C, let it warm up fully before leaving your parking spot, as the oil needs time to be transformed from jell-o back into liquid. Even 0w30 oil's flow is greatly reduced at extreme cold temperatures.
Matt
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Matt
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#8
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Strider is right. The thermal expansion properties vary between metals. At a given temprature, say 160 degrees, aluminum will expand more or less than a different material. But, it is possible for those two different metals to expand at different rates. Lets say aluminum will expand 1 cubic millimeter when heated to 150 degrees. Lets say steel will not expand 1 cubic mm until it gets to 250 degrees. If that aluminum rotor housing and steel centerplate are heated at the same time by the same heat source, there will be a different rate of expansion. The aluminum will be expanding faster, regardless of which one has the greatest expansion capacity. Feel free to challenge that hypothesis, I'm an aircraft mechanic, not a physics major
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Originally posted by Project84
Strider is right. The thermal expansion properties vary between metals. At a given temprature, say 160 degrees, aluminum will expand more or less than a different material. But, it is possible for those two different metals to expand at different rates. Lets say aluminum will expand 1 cubic millimeter when heated to 150 degrees. Lets say steel will not expand 1 cubic mm until it gets to 250 degrees. If that aluminum rotor housing and steel centerplate are heated at the same time by the same heat source, there will be a different rate of expansion. The aluminum will be expanding faster, regardless of which one has the greatest expansion capacity. Feel free to challenge that hypothesis, I'm an aircraft mechanic, not a physics major
Strider is right. The thermal expansion properties vary between metals. At a given temprature, say 160 degrees, aluminum will expand more or less than a different material. But, it is possible for those two different metals to expand at different rates. Lets say aluminum will expand 1 cubic millimeter when heated to 150 degrees. Lets say steel will not expand 1 cubic mm until it gets to 250 degrees. If that aluminum rotor housing and steel centerplate are heated at the same time by the same heat source, there will be a different rate of expansion. The aluminum will be expanding faster, regardless of which one has the greatest expansion capacity. Feel free to challenge that hypothesis, I'm an aircraft mechanic, not a physics major
Forgive me, I'm dog tired and not thinking straight.
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This has been one of those big issues ever since cars are around... Truth is, if you are a normal driver with a normal car (even a Seven) you should just start the car and drive of, but not push the engine. Stationary or idling isn't the perfect way to warm up the engine, as it will mean a less then perfect oiling. Best is to just drive away. I know plenty of people tend to think the other way around, and they simply let the engine run for a few minutes before they drive the car. So I don't want to start a big dicussion here. This is just what I learned, as a mechanic...
#15
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You can rev it at full choke but i would'nt rev anywhere past 3,000. Light taps on the throttle too; and if you choose to drive shift before 3,000 until it's fully warmed up.
#20
Blood, Sweat and Rotors
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Originally posted by rotary emotions
Stationary or idling isn't the perfect way to warm up the engine, as it will mean a less then perfect oiling.
Stationary or idling isn't the perfect way to warm up the engine, as it will mean a less then perfect oiling.
Another way I look at warmin up a motor is like this. Who would want to be dragged out of bed and made to jog an 8 minute mile without first taking your shower, streaching, and starting off with a leisurly 12minute mile first? That's what you're doing to the motor when it's not warmed up.
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