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Because of the cost or effectiveness? I already ordered the OC... so honestly if I have to get the thermostat and a couple more fittings I'm not worried about it. Plus a shiney FMOC will look great under my new aluminum radiator.
The cost and effort. The fittings on my factory one started cracking so I went aftermarket. All in for about $500. Routing the -10AN lines was a pain.
A second gen FMOC will also work by bolting it to the round cross support in the front and making up new lines.
The cost and effort. The fittings on my factory one started cracking so I went aftermarket. All in for about $500. Routing the -10AN lines was a pain.
A second gen FMOC will also work by bolting it to the round cross support in the front and making up new lines.
Understood. Well seeing as I'm already about 200 invested with the FMOC, hoses, fittings, etc... I'm probably just going to get the external thermostat. I have extra hose since I bought the components to make my own. If I have to get it in front of the radiator on the support bar I'll have enough to get me there.
Last edited by d_eagz13; Jun 30, 2019 at 08:38 PM.
I just looked at some reviews on those Earl's thermostats and a couple people commented on the fitment of the 10AN fittings into the unit. Did you have any issues? The company apparently recommends their adapters but I cant imagine them being any different from any other fitting
I just looked at some reviews on those Earl's thermostats and a couple people commented on the fitment of the 10AN fittings into the unit. Did you have any issues? The company apparently recommends their adapters but I cant imagine them being any different from any other fitting
The older unit I have has zero leaks. Ensure that crush washers are used between the -10an fitting and unit.
Yeah I saw a couple similar to his. Just wondering if you used "Earl's" fittings or just any other good quality -10an fitting. I'll probably just bite the bullet and go with it. Looks like a new thermostat for the stock unit is over 70 bucks anyways. Thanks again for the advice!
Just a quick update.... oil was dripping from the OMP to the back but coolant was also leaking from under the carb making a nice dirty mixture on the back of the engine. Pulled the intake and rest assure the O rings were shot as well. Replaced the intake gasket/o rings, installed freeze plugs, removed and blocked off the OMP until I rebuild it, flushed the coolant, changed the thermostat and changed the oil. I also cleaned off the intake mani and the engine a bit. Looks much better and no leaks. I replaced some dry rotted rubber caps on the carb from when I pulled the rats nest off with some silicone caps also. Thanks for the help!
The FMOC project will have to wait until next oil change... just cracked a front spring on my daily driver (2010 volvo s40 t5 r design awd) which means I might as well lower it... which means shocks and struts also all around 😁. I knowww its not a rotary but in Buffalo you need an all weather car. This will give me some time to start pulling some parts on the SA though and coating with some POR15.
